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Switching from Pyrodex to Goex

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JRL1164

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I got a question for you fellers. My Traditions Pennsylvania Percussion model is sighted with 70 grains of Pyrodex. Well recently hunting I had a miss fire, waited a bit recapped it, and then a hang fire. So after a little research I decided to swap to to real black powder. My question is can I shoot 70 grains of Goex and be ok as far as not having to resight my rifle? The gun range is 2 hours out for me and hate to drive out that far if it isn't necessary. Thoughts?

By the way this is my first post so I apologize if this isn't in the correct topic.
 
Only shooting will tell. All I can really say is it should shoot the same if you are shooting by volume but even changing brands of real BP can affect impact but as far as hunting goes a tiny variable shouldn't matter. Just shoot and if it is not where you want, adjust your charge to get where you want.
 
My experience with my guns sezz you'll be quite happy with the switch and no other changes. But it's still best to do some shooting and confirm your sight-in.

Another thing you'll find: It's easier to clean up after black powder. Or not necessarily any easier on the first time. But my ongoing experience with Pyrodex tells me to go back and clean the gun again within a week, then oil the heck out of the bore before storage. Then run an oiled patch down the bore every couple of weeks or month just to make sure that rust isn't starting to form. Folks tell me there's a chemical in Pyrodex fouling called "perchlorate" not found in black powder fouling, and it's a real threat to bores if not completely removed. That's the part that takes so much more effort with Pyrodex.

I'm forecasting you'll be happy with the switch, both the shooting results and the cleanup.
 
Thanks for the help, and yes I have definitely noticed shooting Pyrodex for roughly 8 years and I have always had to clean my rifle twice. Initially and about a week later and then halfway through storage. I am excited for the swap and have high expectations based off of my research.
 
I'm with brown bear. Way easier to clean. Pyrodex is rust hell. I almost gave up on muzzeloading until I tried goexx.
 
Your hunting misfire wasn't the pyrodex. It was likely a no so well cleaned out firing channel, or residual oil or lube in there.

Percussion has its rituals of their own to get a very reliable gun.

Blackpowder is a step in the right direction.

I sprayed a little brake cleaner in the bore and forced it out the nipple with a patch. This is to get the storage oil out.

I'd take thr.nipple off when loading for gunting to help ensure powder gets in the channel area. Some put a very small bit of powder in the nipple area to relay the ignition with the burn of the powder.

I was also picky with cleaning the channel. I used a proper sized cleaning brush from a engine rebuilding brush set. I also push a fresh pipe cleaner brush after the brake cleaner flush.

I store the gun without rhe nipple and let it lay muzzle down to dribble extra oil away from the snail or drum. Wd40 is a much thinner than most gun oils, so it'll stay clear of the channel easier.

Tell us about your hunting load procedure,gun cleaning, and patch lube.
 
fools sulphur said:
Your hunting misfire wasn't the pyrodex. It was likely a no so well cleaned out firing channel, or residual oil or lube in there.

Percussion has its rituals of their own to get a very reliable gun.

Blackpowder is a step in the right direction.

I sprayed a little brake cleaner in the bore and forced it out the nipple with a patch. This is to get the storage oil out.

I'd take thr.nipple off when loading for gunting to help ensure powder gets in the channel area. Some put a very small bit of powder in the nipple area to relay the ignition with the burn of the powder.

I was also picky with cleaning the channel. I used a proper sized cleaning brush from a engine rebuilding brush set. I also push a fresh pipe cleaner brush after the brake cleaner flush.

I store the gun without rhe nipple and let it lay muzzle down to dribble extra oil away from the snail or drum. Wd40 is a much thinner than most gun oils, so it'll stay clear of the channel easier.

Tell us about your hunting load procedure,gun cleaning, and patch lube.

I would agree with you however, when I was first shooting muzzleloaders I made the mistake of loading my rifle with heavily oiled barrel. Obviously my powder became oil soaked and I got to learn how to pull a ball out of the barrel. So now before I load any powder typically the night before the hunt and the morning of, I swab the barrel with a dry cloth and continue to do so until the oil is gone as well as clean the nipple one last time. The morning of my misfire and hangfire I had swabbed the barrel free of any remaining oil as well cleaned the nipple.

I've been doing this for sometime now with good luck after seeing first hand how corrosive Pyrodex is. I've always been very tedious about cleaning my rifles after I shoot them, but have always had to clean my muzzlelloaders 2 to 3 times after shooting them because of rust issues. (I also believe this to be due to living next to the coast)

It could of been many things that morning and I am not completely contributing it to the Pyrodex. It could of been the Georgia humidity. But I think swapping to black powder will give me better results due to a lower ignition point.
 
I still shoot Pyro. I have the real stuff too now though and I hate to waste and it's just plinking anyway so once it's gone I likely won't use it any more as long as I can continue to get the real stuff.
 
With all my percussion rifles I had used Pyrodex for years. When I switched to real Black Powder I did not have to change any of the loads. In truth when I did switch (was shooting RS and went to 2F) my shots became more consistent, read that as accurate, my groups tighten up. I wasn't having the flyers I was with Pyrodex. DANNY
 
Danny Ross said:
With all my percussion rifles I had used Pyrodex for years. When I switched to real Black Powder I did not have to change any of the loads. In truth when I did switch (was shooting RS and went to 2F) my shots became more consistent, read that as accurate, my groups tighten up. I wasn't having the flyers I was with Pyrodex. DANNY
My experiences mirror yours. I shot Pyrodex when I started muzzleloading in '87. Everything I read back then claimed Pyrodex was better. Used it until the mid '90's because I never saw real black powder for sale in any store. I finally stumbled on some Goex and bought some to try. After the first range session I knew I would never go back. Easier clean up, instant ignition, and patch lubes/bullet lubes actually worked in keeping fouling soft.
 
Been shooting Pyrodex since 1992 and switched to Goex back in December. Like real BP much better. Have not shot all my BP guns yet with the new Goex, but the three rifles I have shot saw no difference in POI. Meters so nice in a horn and flask also. I shoot 3F in my rifles and shotgun. I did learn quick about the fouling build up, but it did not end up disastrous. Trial and error showed me how often I had to wipe the barrel between shots.
 
All the answers here are spot on. the only thing I will add (if you want to keep using Pyrodex) is to switch to magnum caps. They just about always solve the occasional mis/hang-fire with Pyrodex.
 
Thanks for the replies, as everyone had said way easier to clean up and I rechecked my rifle a few days after shooting and didn't have the usual corrosion that I was accustomed too. Very pleased to far and my accuracy is no different. Rifle still shoots spot on. Very pleased and thanks for the help and every bodies opinion. I highly recommend it to anybody who's shooting a muzzleloader.
 
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