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Slotted vs non slotted vent liner

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HighUintas

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I did a search but haven't found much regarding my specific question.

I have the parts to install a slotted vent liner, thinking I will want to eventually also be able to unscrew that and put in a drum for a caplock. But, I'm not sure if I'll actually do that so I was thinking I might just get the white lightning liner to make it look nicer and prevent having to clean fouling from the slot to prevent the primer from gooping up if it's a bit of time between shots. But to get the supplies for that would cost a bit more than I want to spend right now.

So, for those of you that use a slotted vent liner, have you noticed much issue with fouling getting in the slot and then causing failure to ignite the primer later? Maybe I'm thinking too much about it...
 

Griz44Mag

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I did a search but haven't found much regarding my specific question.

I have the parts to install a slotted vent liner, thinking I will want to eventually also be able to unscrew that and put in a drum for a caplock. But, I'm not sure if I'll actually do that so I was thinking I might just get the white lightning liner to make it look nicer and prevent having to clean fouling from the slot to prevent the primer from gooping up if it's a bit of time between shots. But to get the supplies for that would cost a bit more than I want to spend right now.

So, for those of you that use a slotted vent liner, have you noticed much issue with fouling getting in the slot and then causing failure to ignite the primer later? Maybe I'm thinking too much about it...
First - when I was using a slotted liner I never had any issues with fouling.
I did have issues with being able to use that shallow and very thin slot to remove the liner when I needed to.
That said - if I had to chose between the slot and no slot, it would not make any difference at all.
Instead I chose to use the Oxyoke allen socket style liner. No slot, and absolutely no issue with ignition or performance.
When on occasion I decide to do a deep clean and strip everything down, there are no issues getting the liner out.
I have retrofit all my flinters with this excellent product.
Given your baseline of potentially removing the liner for changing back and forth to percussion (I do this very thing with 2 of my guns) the Allen set liner would be an excellent choice.
 

dave951

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I use a slotted on my flinter. The fouling isn't a problem if you clean the gun after each shooting session. I did install mine with anti seize for automotive exhaust for the day I change it out.
 

ADK Bigfoot

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I have had very good luck with the RMC hex-wrench style. I also have slotted and un-slotted liners. the main difference I see is the RMC-type makes it really easy to get some priming powder into the chamber...it acts like a funnel. Easy out and in, just make sure to lube it when reinstalling.

ADK Bigfoot
 
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FYI, I had picked up a left-handed flint longrifle (yes, I’m a lefty) with one of those Allen wrench type liners. I was thrilled with the rifle, but was not so thrilled with the liner. I guess that I was biased against it!

Until I shot it, that is …

It has 100% reliability as long as the flint makes sparks!

And that is good to hear about people’s success with the ’slot’ type liners! I have just picked up another lefty in 45, that has the capability for both percussion and flintlock large Siler lock assemblies. And it uses a slotted liner for the flint configuration.
 

flntlokr

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I did a search but haven't found much regarding my specific question.

I have the parts to install a slotted vent liner, thinking I will want to eventually also be able to unscrew that and put in a drum for a caplock. But, I'm not sure if I'll actually do that so I was thinking I might just get the white lightning liner to make it look nicer and prevent having to clean fouling from the slot to prevent the primer from gooping up if it's a bit of time between shots. But to get the supplies for that would cost a bit more than I want to spend right now.

So, for those of you that use a slotted vent liner, have you noticed much issue with fouling getting in the slot and then causing failure to ignite the primer later? Maybe I'm thinking too much about it...
I make my liners from 14x28 set screws with Allen sockets. Easy to remove/replace, and allows for easy attachment of a fitting for cleaning or blowing out stuck balls. I have had a couple of slotted liners, but as someone else mentioned. th slot is difficult to deal with; usually too shallow or narrow to give a good grip.
 

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I had a slotted vent liner in my .45. The only thing I noticed about it that I didn't like was that it was gas cutting a slot in the pan. This could have been do to the way the liner was oriented. I don't know. I solved the problem by committing the sacrilege of cutting 6" off the barrel and converting the rifle to percussion.
 
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had a slotted liner in my pistol. when i got a camera thingy to look inside i discovered the liner protruded into the barrel way too much.
of course the dang slot buggered up trying to take it out. got it out with the judicious use of a punch tap tap tapping .
it was a shouldered/recessed liner so i peened the slot almost shut and recut it. reduced the inside so it didn't stick inside and coned it.
very very carefully check engraved the face of the vent liner and the barrel surrounding it to hide my indiscrete chisel work.
have converted all of my others to OxYoke hex.
still cogitating on how to change the one in my pistol.
 

HighUintas

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Awesome. Thanks for all the info. I would assume that the hex liner would have the same fouling buildup as the slot, if there is buildup. The hex wrench removal sounds really nice and if it really is more reliable than other types that kind of makes sense since hole would put the powder closer to the main charge, especially if the interior is coned.

Are the RMC hex liners SS or carbon steel?
 
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SS.
there is no builup of fowling because of the jet of gas that erupts from the vent on firing.
actually gas goes both ways. prime burns creating a jet of super heated gas blasting through the vent to the main charge. main goes off and reverses the flow .if the rifle is right hand don't stand close on the right. opposite for lefthanded flints 🤪
 

HighUintas

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SS.
there is no builup of fowling because of the jet of gas that erupts from the vent on firing.
actually gas goes both ways. prime burns creating a jet of super heated gas blasting through the vent to the main charge. main goes off and reverses the flow .if the rifle is right hand don't stand close on the right. opposite for lefthanded flints 🤪

I see! I assumed the same thing happens as it does to the pan. Fellas have to wipe the pan to keep priming good.
 
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Hi,
If you want to convert back and forth from flint to percussion, I urge you to either make a percussion gun or create a drop in percussion barrel and lock rather than screwing in a drum instead of a vent liner. Your vent liner would have to be at least 5/16-24 thread to fit a drum. The advantage of the white lightning liners is the wider funneling inside the liner compared with other liners, which speeds ignition and also makes it more reliable.

dave
 

beardedhorse

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With a slotted touch hole liner there is a danger of gas cutting and enlarging the hole from round to elliptical. If the slot on the liner runs up and down it can gas cut the pan on your lock. The White Lightning is installed and bottomed out to a countersink that is not typical requiring a dfferent angled countersink drill. The liner is trimmed flush with the barrel and has no slot. When worn out it will take an easy out to remove. I've adapted stainless steel allen set screws to make my own liners in either 1/4 s 28 or 5 /16 x 24 which is thread of drum. but place the allen slot toward the bore.
 

Griz44Mag

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There is no need for a vent liner unless the vent is damaged in some way. Unfortunately I have had to install one from time to time. But when I did, I could see no difference between the slotted and plain ones.
That very reason is why almost every manufacturer of guns and gun kits drill the barrels for a liner.
Even Kibler does, and those are some primo kits and guns.
I like the consistency of a new liner on a semi-regular basis as well, for the same reason I change out the nipples on my percussion guns.
The holes on either will erode. On my shotguns - who cares?
On the rifles I consider highly accurate - a worn ignition hole changes the POI. So I change them out when they become erratic.
My Bess has nothing but a drilled hole, and it is no longer round or anywhere close to 1/16". At some point in the future, it's going to get drilled and tapped for a liner.
Traditional or not, a liner will help extend the accuracy service life of the gun.
 

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