Set Trigger

[tljack]

I have a Lancaster Pennsylvania flintlock rifle that I have been having some issues with the set trigger. All of a sudden the set trigger would not set. I finally figured out to make it work properly. If I loosen the bolt that goes from the barrel tang to the trigger it works perfectly and is easily adjusted. It seems to me that all bolts should be tight however.

I have a Davis trigger system. The barrel is a Colerain swamped if this helps.

I would really appreciate any suggestions. I love this rifle.

Terry in Oregon

 

[crockett]

In setting some triggers,the inner part actually rises a little as it is set. If the inlet on the wood isn't large enough the trigger might not set. I am guessing that by backing off the tang screw you gave yourself a little more clearance. Wait for a few more replies on this one or check it out yourself with some inletting black on the portion of the trigger assembly closest to any wood.

 

[Pete Gaimari]

I agree.

 

[Tom Compton]

sounds as if over tightening the tang to trigger plate is pulling the whole trigger assembly too far into the lock mortise and something is binding.

This screw only needs to be snug not tight.

 

[tljack]

The bolt is snug not tight. I can turn it about 1/4 turn still. I am assuming (dangerous I know) that inletting black is probably something like lamp black. What do I use and where do I obtain it? I understand its use.

Thank you

Terry

 

[ohio ramrod]

It sounds to me like the triggers are inlet to deep. Try putting a shim under the trigger plate and see if this solves the problem. :hmm:

 

[Tom Compton]

Lip stick works.

First look closely to see if there ware rub marks on the wood.

 

[tljack]

The triggers are flush with the wood of the stock. I will try some lipstick. Wife told me I had better not use her new ones. ha!

 

[tljack]

I pulled the trigger assembly out of the rifle and slathered it with lipstick. Reinstalled it and tightened it up snug. Removed it again and none of the lipstick came off the trigger assembly. The only thing showing any kind of rubbing at all is were the trigger makes contact with the lock to make it fire.

I can see where the rifle maker has bedded the trigger assembly.

This is my first flintlock rifle and I do love it! It is absolutely gorgeous. Has a P+++ curley maple stock. I am finding as I have with my other guns, no matter how careful I am, they get small dings and scratches! I guess that is just real life. This gun really shoots well.

I appreciate all of you suggestions and help

 

[Pete Gaimari]

Silly question, but you did try to set the trigger when you tightened it down with the lipstick on it?

 

[tljack]

Capper, Yes I did try to tighten it down with lipstick and then tried to get the trigger to set.

 

[tljack]

In checking my rifle's parts list, I have found that I have given some inaccurate information. The trigger assembly is a R.E. David #6, not Davis. I do not know if it makes any difference but I did not say the the barrel is a Colerain Early American C weight swamped 38". The lock the trigger assembly is firing is a Large Siler.

Any chance this info will help us come up with a solution? I guess if we do not figure anything out, it will really not be a big deal. At least now I have working set triggers. As I said before, I love this rifle and am really hooked on flinters after having this gun over a year. I have recently located a beautiful left handed, full stocked Hawken with iron furniture! Now to get the money together............

 

[Bill Hall]

The trigger lever may be just touching the wood on a corner or the tip, but not enough to leave a visible mark with the lipstick. I suggest you eyeball where the front trigger lever might be touching the wood, take a narrow chisel and scrape a little wood away from that area. Try the triggers again and see if it makes at least some difference. If it seems like the problem is a little better, you know you're going in the right direction, and you can continue to scrape until the problem is gone. You can actually remove alot of wood under the triggers without affecting the strength. Alot of builder just "hog" out big recess there. If scraping doesn't help though, try that shim someone mentioned earlier.

I'm sure you realize that loosening the bolts isn't really a permanent fix, so don't consider it solved until you can sug up those bolts properly. Bill

 

[Bill Hall]

I just thought of something else. Can you fire the gun with just the front trigger, or does it hang up before the cock falls? If you can feel it dragging, then it's probably the tip of the front trigger lever that's causing the problem. Since you know where the sear bar is contacting the front trigger lever, you can grind off a little on the end of the lever, instead of scraping out wood, and it won't hurt a thing. Just don't get close to the contact point. Hope this helps. Bill

 

[crockett]

Getting back to the original Q- I think it best if the tang bolt is tight. Try a very thin shim (layers of aluminium foil) under the trigger plate (between the inlet and the trigger plate) and tighten it up- see if that solves the problem.

 

[matt denison]

I agree with shimming. I would cut a business card (.010")into strips to fit in the mortise one layer thick and reassemble it and see how she goes with the tang screw reasonably tight. Maybe have to use two layers. Then you know how thick a permanent shim has to be to fix it. Or just leave the card stock in there.

 

[Zonie]

A business card might work but there is something else that might also work, be a little more durable and save a lot of money too.

Use one of the charge cards that you will find in your wife's purse. :rotf:

 

[David W.]

Use one of the charge cards that you will find in your wife's purse. :rotf:

Well, Zonie, what funeral home do we send flowers to? :shake:

 

[tljack]

Thanks again for all of the input.
I can fire the rifle with just the front trigger but it requires a substantial amount of effort.

There is absolutely no wood near the trigger anywhere. It has really been cut out. Also if I were to shim the unit, it would then be raised up above the wood of the stock. Right now it fits perfectly.

 

[Pete Gaimari]

Just shim it to see if it works. If it does. It has to be hitting the wood. You can try again to see where it's hitting and take out the shim.