Safe Dovetail file

[Col. Batguano]

Buying tools is one of the things that often isn't figured in to the costs of building. Though many of them can be used for other projects (vices for instance) a lot of them don't have a lot of other uses.

 

[pooch156]

The jig is hardened and will definitely take the teeth off a file. Hacksaw blades are rather inexpensive and I don't worry about them. Dovetail files however are costly and I therefore do the initial shaping with a cheap triangle file, then do the final clean up and sizing with a dovetail file and with the jig removed.

I went ahead and ordered a Dovetail cutting jig from DGW along with more of their browning solution. Yes, it would seem that this jig could be hard on hacksaw blades & files. But as you stated earlier, hacksaw blades are cheap. So aren't 3-cornered files on ebay, e.g. slim taper & extra slim taper. I have cut dovetails for sights & barrel lugs on 3 barrels without a jig. Everything worked out well but I always wished they looked a little cleaner. Just my OCD kicking in I guess.

Buying tools is one of the things that often isn't figured in to the costs of building. Though many of them can be used for other projects (vices for instance) a lot of them don't have a lot of other uses.

It does pain me (my wallet) to buy single purpose tools. But . . . it makes the money spent so worthwhile when the job turns out really nice. Whenever possible I make the tool/jig needed. I looked at the safe/dovetail file at Brownell's. I'm sure that to many it is worth the money ($45.00?) spent. If I couldn't make one then I would buy it. But, in this case, I can make one as good as that in a matter of minutes. The "taper" on a regular three cornered file only encompasses the the last 1/4 of the file. I cut it off. I grind one side perfectly flat on my 6" disc grinder, making sure the radius on the two corners is gone. Easy peasy! But then I am fortunate in having the tool (disc grinder) to make the tool.

 

[springfield art]

Starting to put a kit together and am going to need a “safe dovetail file” with a smooth side. The only one I could find was the one offered on the “Brownells” site for $47.00. Is there a more affordable option?

$47 bucks! Holy cow. Wonder if Harbor Freight has files like that?

 

[springfield art]

I went ahead and ordered a Dovetail cutting jig from DGW along with more of their browning solution. Yes, it would seem that this jig could be hard on hacksaw blades & files. But as you stated earlier, hacksaw blades are cheap. So aren't 3-cornered files on ebay, e.g. slim taper & extra slim taper. I have cut dovetails for sights & barrel lugs on 3 barrels without a jig. Everything worked out well but I always wished they looked a little cleaner. Just my OCD kicking in I guess.

It does pain me (my wallet) to buy single purpose tools. But . . . it makes the money spent so worthwhile when the job turns out really nice. Whenever possible I make the tool/jig needed. I looked at the safe/dovetail file at Brownell's. I'm sure that to many it is worth the money ($45.00?) spent. If I couldn't make one then I would buy it. But, in this case, I can make one as good as that in a matter of minutes. The "taper" on a regular three cornered file only encompasses the the last 1/4 of the file. I cut it off. I grind one side perfectly flat on my 6" disc grinder, making sure the radius on the two corners is gone. Easy peasy! But then I am fortunate in having the tool (disc grinder) to make the tool.

One thing I'd tell any young "gun nut", get a full set of gunsmith screwdrivers right from the get-go. I wish I'd done that back in the 1970's...they help avoid buggered up screws, etc. Brownell's, etc., it's worth the cost!

 

[springfield art]

I bought one from Dawson Precision. (In Texas)
Very good file. I fit it to a piece of 3/4" dowell.

Thanks for the tip! Was not aware of them.

 

[pooch156]

$47 bucks! Holy cow. Wonder if Harbor Freight has files like that?

Sadly, they don't. I already checked.

 

[pooch156]

It took about 10 minutes to turn this 6" slim taper file into a dovetail file.

 

[Col. Batguano]

The little stuff can sure add up though can't it?

When I'm buying tools I often add them to the materials in the calculation of how much it REALLY cost me to make what ever it is I made, and do the comparison of how much it cost me vs what it would cost to BUY the same product as a finished product. If it's a wash, and I only want 1, and the tool is specialized, I'll buy the product. If the tool is general purpose (like a table saw--yes I know we don't use them in ML'er building) I'll buy the tools and raw materials and make it myself.

With building, so many of the tools are specialized to gun making, so to help amortize the cost, you have to build more and more and more guns. That said, even with a well done plain gun a builder can add $1000 in value over the component parts, and with a well done carved and engraved one many many thousands of dollars in value can be added. I don't ever plan on selling the guns I've made, but I DO keep something of a running "balance sheet" in my head that way.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

It took about 10 minutes to turn this 6" slim taper file into a dovetail file.

When your dovetail file arrives from Brownells it might is interesting to compare and contrast the sharpness of their corners. Ordinary triangle files tend to be a bit more rounded.

 

[pooch156]

When your dovetail file arrives from Brownells it might is interesting to compare and contrast the sharpness of their corners. Ordinary triangle files tend to be a bit more rounded.

That is why I make sure to grind off the radius. Luckily I have a good disc grinder/sander to do this.

 

[stewart.leach]

One of the things I learned from a very good Colorado gun builder is take care of your tools. In the instance of files, first thing I do is make up a cover or sheath for the new file out of cereal box cardboard and duct tape. Clean the file when done using it, then cover it before it goes back in the drawer.

When making safe edge files I go visit a friend with a belt sander. After removing the teeth the safe side is worked on a large whetstone to even out the surface.

I like the idea of cutting or breaking off the tapered end. Will try it.

 

[pooch156]

I too touch up the safe side, using my waterstones. Not really necessary but I do it anyway. I cut off the tapered end using my Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel.
On another note I just picked up a dozen Nicholson slim taper files for $12.00 shipped on ebay.

 

[Josephg]

Get a good quality "3 corner" file. Carefully grind the teeth (without overheating) from one side. Go slow, keep it flat and keep it cool.
Cost you about $12.00.

I take the teeth off on a belt sander. Turns out nice and flat. Been using one for many years done that way.

 

[smoothshooter]

Thank all for the comments. Bit the bullet and ordered the safe file offered by Dawson Prcision as suggested by Griz44Mag.

How much was it?

 

[ord sgt]

During my first long rifle build, many,many years ago, I bought a three sided file at the local hardware store. Told the owner what I needed and he ground the teeth from one side. All for the price of the file, no extra charge.

 

[Scota@4570]

Make sure the jig does not cut the dovetail too deep. Any more than 0.062" is too deep. Most of the time less is fine. You will want to cut the front sight dovetail so the blade sits tight on the barrel. Measure the thickness of the base to figure that out. You can reduce the base thickness. On the waist of a swamped barrel you may need to use a very shallow dovetail. I have never used a jig and can not see how it would be helpful. Be sure and test in on a scrap barrel first. If you do not have one get a decent set of calipers, I strongly prefer the digital ones.

 

[pooch156]

Make sure the jig does not cut the dovetail too deep. Any more than 0.062" is too deep. Most of the time less is fine. You will want to cut the front sight dovetail so the blade sits tight on the barrel. Measure the thickness of the base to figure that out. You can reduce the base thickness. On the waist of a swamped barrel you may need to use a very shallow dovetail. I have never used a jig and can not see how it would be helpful. Be sure and test in on a scrap barrel first. If you do not have one get a decent set of calipers, I strongly prefer the digital ones.

Oh, I have a good set of dial calipers. As far as the correct depth, I have about 3 sets of automotive feeler guages. I don't mind sacrificing one of those for shims if needed. I would mark & save any shims made for future use.

 

[Scota@4570]

To do a dovetail by hand, start with a rectangular mortice just short of the correct depth. The width is determined by the sight. Then use the safes side file to make the corners. Make it parallel sided up unit the last few strokes. Then put a small taper. Put a taper on the sight that is only a few thousands long. When the sight just starts to go in put sharpie marker on it to witness where it scrapes. Only work on the the areas on contact. When finished it should contact all around if you did it right. A sight should never need shims or staking unless the works was done poorly.

 

[pooch156]

To do a dovetail by hand, start with a rectangular mortice just short of the correct depth. The width is determined by the sight. Then use the safes side file to make the corners. Make it parallel sided up unit the last few strokes. Then put a small taper. Put a taper on the sight that is only a few thousands long. When the sight just starts to go in put sharpie marker on it to witness where it scrapes. Only work on the the areas on contact. When finished it should contact all around if you did it right. A sight should never need shims or staking unless the works was done poorly.

When I mentioned using shims it was to use shims on the jig to achieve the correct depth. NOT to shim the sight itself.

 

[Griz44Mag]

The jig is hardened and will definitely take the teeth off a file. Hacksaw blades are rather inexpensive and I don't worry about them. Dovetail files however are costly and I therefore do the initial shaping with a cheap triangle file, then do the final clean up and sizing with a dovetail file and with the jig removed.

I do the depth cut with the edge of a flat file. Once the cut is to depth I use the safe file to do the undercutting.
It really is a lot easier than it sounds like.
Of course - if you have a small mill - a dovetail bit is the best and fastest way to go. But mills are expensive and something I would not use enough to be cost effective.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/gr...IozaZCEkkW51MOEdWnhVFric2-WDSJ-BoCE04QAvD_BwE