Barrel Thickness and Dovetail Depth

[flatcreek]

What do you all think about cutting a .050 dovetail in a barrel with a .125 wall. I'm building a Tenn Mt. rifle with a swamped 50 cal Rice Southern Classic A weight barrel and at least one of the underlugs need to go ware the barrel is only .125 thick, about 12" from the muzzle. I was wondering if it may be advisable to solder them on. Don't have much experience and need some expert advice.
Thanks Phil

 

[Kevin Houlihan]

What do you all think about cutting a .050 dovetail in a barrel with a .125 wall. I'm building a Tenn Mt. rifle with a swamped 50 cal Rice Southern Classic A weight barrel and at least one of the underlugs need to go ware the barrel is only .125 thick, about 12" from the muzzle. I was wondering if it may be advisable to solder them on. Don't have much experience and need some expert advice.
Thanks Phil

I'd solder it on. I use Sta-Brite solder. I've got guns 30 years old with soldered tenons that have never loosened.
Kevin

 

[SDSmlf]

What do you all think about cutting a .050 dovetail in a barrel with a .125 wall. I'm building a Tenn Mt. rifle with a swamped 50 cal Rice Southern Classic A weight barrel and at least one of the underlugs need to go ware the barrel is only .125 thick, about 12" from the muzzle. I was wondering if it may be advisable to solder them on. Don't have much experience and need some expert advice.
Thanks Phil

Either method will work, but 12” from the muzzle there is much less pressure than near the breech. Go with the method you feel more comfortable with. Recently saw a gun that the builder used staples for the underlugs. They had drilled into the bore and were upset when I suggested a liner for their ‘new’ build gun. Only mention because of the three common options for barrel lugs, the staple method seems to ruin the most barrels.

Dovetail or solder at will.

 

[Kevin Houlihan]

Either method will work, but 12” from the muzzle there is much less pressure than near the breech. Go with the method you feel more comfortable with. Recently saw a gun that the builder used staples for the underlugs. They had drilled into the bore and were upset when I suggested a liner for their ‘new’ build gun. Only mention because of the three common options for barrel lugs, the staple method seems to ruin the most barrels.

Dovetail or solder at will.

Also, the dovetails don't have to be .050" deep. .030" should be fine. Much past the entry pipe, the wood isn't supporting the barrel....the barrel is supporting the wood. I've seen round barreled smooth bores with dovetailed front sights on walls that I thought were too thin to dovetail. However as stated above, the pressure at the muzzle is much, much less than at the breech.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Also remember, the dovetailed slot is being filled back in with metal. Hopefully, the lug fits tight and precisely.

dave

 

[oldwood]

I solder my long rifle underlugs on. Make the lugs out of 1/16 sheet steel , 5/16 tall , and file a 1/16 stud on each end of the long sides. Mark the places where the underlug studs go on the barrel. Center punch and drill where each stud will go into the barrel , and solder them on. Quick , solid , and easy. Never had one get loose and come loose. Doesn't cost $5 each for the Manufactured lugs.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

What do you all think about cutting a .050 dovetail in a barrel with a .125 wall. I'm building a Tenn Mt. rifle with a swamped 50 cal Rice Southern Classic A weight barrel and at least one of the underlugs need to go ware the barrel is only .125 thick, about 12" from the muzzle. I was wondering if it may be advisable to solder them on. Don't have much experience and need some expert advice.
Thanks Phil

I am with KH. Solder to me is also the easiest route. Dovetail takes fitting and precision to get them correct.
Larry

 

[flatcreek]

Thank you all, and agree with all. Have an old barrel and I'm going to try the solder route, have never done it that way. I have had water get under the dove tails and cause a tiny bit of rust, I think the solder will seal them up and either will hold. Got to see how my soldering skills are and I'll get back. I can sweat copper and I can make ok dovetails. Thanks again.
Phil

 

[Kevin Houlihan]

Thank you all, and agree with all. Have an old barrel and I'm going to try the solder route, have never done it that way. I have had water get under the dove tails and cause a tiny bit of rust, I think the solder will seal them up and either will hold. Got to see how my soldering skills are and I'll get back. I can sweat copper and I can make ok dovetails. Thanks again.
Phil

After filing/sanding the dovetail and the tenon, I usually spray both with Brakleen to make sure they're squeaky clean before soldering.

 

[bptactical]

After filing/sanding the dovetail and the tenon, I usually spray both with Brakleen to make sure they're squeaky clean before soldering.

Make sure to use the non chlorinated (green can) of Brakleen.
Phosgene gas is the result of heating chlorine- bad ju ju.
Denatured alcohol is a safer bet.

 

[James Kibler]

As others have said, .030" depth is fine and I wouldn't hesitate to cut this in the wall thickness you suggested. I don't like to solder on lugs for rifles simply because you don't see this done on original work.

 

[FlinterNick]

What do you all think about cutting a .050 dovetail in a barrel with a .125 wall. I'm building a Tenn Mt. rifle with a swamped 50 cal Rice Southern Classic A weight barrel and at least one of the underlugs need to go ware the barrel is only .125 thick, about 12" from the muzzle. I was wondering if it may be advisable to solder them on. Don't have much experience and need some expert advice.
Thanks Phil

I’ve seen it done on originals.

Some original 1776 rifles had the rammer swivels drilled through the barrel wall.

I think what a lot of early builders did was file out a small area and hold down the sight with wire so it could be brazed or tinned on, as some thin area dovetails don’t actually have enough steel to yield an effective dovetail.