Found that 1075 doesn't fit on my Treso nipples from Ampco. It is too tight. I threw my old nipples away, so I'm not able to see if they would had fit. Now I'm stuck, since there is not any other brand available, as far I can see on the 'net. Does any one know of a brand nipple for a Uberti navy London model that would fit?
-
This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.
Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades -
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
RWS 1075 is too tight
- Thread starter Nemovir
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Just chuck the nipples in a drill and turn them down with a small file to fit . It doesn't take much.
AZbpBurner
54 Cal.
Unless you have a lifetime supply of RWS caps, or plan to solely use the 1075's, it's best not to tamper with the Treso nipple dimensions. They're precision made already. I have Treso/Ampco nipples installed in everything from (almost) all my percussion rifles to several cap and ball revolvers.
I found out long ago that 1075's are just that, a 10 3/4 size cap that works well with a random variety of Italian factory nipples that are often not carefully made or sized to properly fit #10 cap use.
Each and every one of my Treso/Ampco nipples work flawlessly with #11 CCI or Remington caps.
I've also concluded that it' best to never throw away old gun parts (or ANYTHING), since there's a law of probability out there that states that once you DO throw out something, you will need it again in short order :haha:
I found out long ago that 1075's are just that, a 10 3/4 size cap that works well with a random variety of Italian factory nipples that are often not carefully made or sized to properly fit #10 cap use.
Each and every one of my Treso/Ampco nipples work flawlessly with #11 CCI or Remington caps.
I've also concluded that it' best to never throw away old gun parts (or ANYTHING), since there's a law of probability out there that states that once you DO throw out something, you will need it again in short order :haha:
The reason I ordered the RWS is because I couldn't find any Rem or CCI. I got a thousand, so I got a choice either alter my cones and use the caps or wait for my local gunshop or big box store to get some and let the box sit in the corner. Bummer. :redface:
then the easiest fix is to chuck the nipples and file them
AZbpBurner
54 Cal.
1000 RWS caps is good enough reason to turn down the nipples to fit
Poor Private
58 Cal.
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2007
- Messages
- 2,073
- Reaction score
- 18
Or better yet, make a new friend. How? Find someone in your area that shoots BP and trade him some.
Guest
I understand your predicament. I could not find Remington or CCI percussion caps for my Pietta Colt Navy gun review. So I got RWS 1075s. My caps fit on fairly well but I used a piece of a dowel rod to force them on further. Maybe if you give your current cones some sandpaper love your caps may fit. But I would not modify them. I would rather get new nipples
Call the folks at Track of the Wolf.
763-633-2500
Personally, I've never had a problem with RWS (Dynamite Nobel) 1075 caps fitting the nipples on my guns or firing.
They are excellent caps IMO.
763-633-2500
Personally, I've never had a problem with RWS (Dynamite Nobel) 1075 caps fitting the nipples on my guns or firing.
They are excellent caps IMO.
Hello, was at the range shooting my navy revolver. Previous thread was about RWS cap not fitting. So I file down the nipple. 3 of 6 worked with no issue. The problem on one was it didn't fire. When I looked at the cap,3 thing happened. First was a tear on top of the cap, looks like I took a miniature can opener to it, it was the shape of the safety notch on the hammer, 2nd the top was mushroomed, 3rd was I had an extremely hard time removing the cap(yes, it was extremely stupid, especially it was still loaded. I have no excuse.) other then a review of safety procedure, how do I fixed this? I thinking I need to file it down more. My reasoning is that when the hammer struck the cap, it wasn't enough to force the cap down onto the nipple, which is the anvil to the hammer. May I have your thoughts.
Guest
let's see, what pistol were you using?(I missed it)
Does it take # 10 or #11 caps to begin with.
Various revolvers are notorious with one cap brand or the other not fitting properly, thus many people do one of two things.
pinch the cap slightly or change to better than factory nipples.
Your filing actually makes things worse.
The sharp edges from filing can cause the tears as you noticed.
Also the nipple is now shorter and farther from the hammer, thus the hammer may not strike flat enough nor hard enough to detonate the cap, as you also noticed.
Your only solution now is to replace the nipples.
If it is a recent Pietta of the Remington style
there are factory replacements for the #10 or for the #11 by an aftermarket company.
I stock the # 11 aftermarkets for this revolver.
Does it take # 10 or #11 caps to begin with.
Various revolvers are notorious with one cap brand or the other not fitting properly, thus many people do one of two things.
pinch the cap slightly or change to better than factory nipples.
Your filing actually makes things worse.
The sharp edges from filing can cause the tears as you noticed.
Also the nipple is now shorter and farther from the hammer, thus the hammer may not strike flat enough nor hard enough to detonate the cap, as you also noticed.
Your only solution now is to replace the nipples.
If it is a recent Pietta of the Remington style
there are factory replacements for the #10 or for the #11 by an aftermarket company.
I stock the # 11 aftermarkets for this revolver.
The nipples are Treso. They work with rem 11. Ran out, so order RWS 1075. I didn't file down the top, only the "side". It is an Uberti navy london. The tear was not around the edges, it was in the middle of the top of the cap. The tear was triangle shaped, sort of. Location was were the hammer slot would "hit".
I would say you turned them down too much.
Did you try firing the chambers that didn't shoot more than once or did you just say, "That one didn't fire.", and then try to remove the caps?
I ask because if a cap doesn't fire it's usually a sign that the nipple cone is too large in diameter for the cap.
When this happens, the first hammer blow usually seats the cap and the second hammer blow usually fires it.
If the caps are sliding completely down onto the cone with the top resting on the end of the nipple I'd say the size of the cone is about right.
You don't want to make the cone too small.
That would make the caps loose and they might fall off of the nipple when another chamber fires and the gun recoils.
If a cap comes off of the nipple on a loaded chamber it's a recipe for chain firing.
Because you did cut away some material on the cones, make sure the edge where it meets the top isn't sharp. It should have a small radius.
I ask because if a cap doesn't fire it's usually a sign that the nipple cone is too large in diameter for the cap.
When this happens, the first hammer blow usually seats the cap and the second hammer blow usually fires it.
If the caps are sliding completely down onto the cone with the top resting on the end of the nipple I'd say the size of the cone is about right.
You don't want to make the cone too small.
That would make the caps loose and they might fall off of the nipple when another chamber fires and the gun recoils.
If a cap comes off of the nipple on a loaded chamber it's a recipe for chain firing.
Because you did cut away some material on the cones, make sure the edge where it meets the top isn't sharp. It should have a small radius.
Guest
Raul said:
I'm presuming this london navy is a .36 cal and normally has #10 nipples from factory.
You converted to #11 (based on treso).
How long you been using the treso's and any other noted issues before the filing?
The safety notch in tip of hammer face, should not strike the nipple at all, except maybe on the very upper edge of the nipple,because you went to #11's which could be a tad taller nipple ans is arguably a shade larger in diameter. But I doubt that, let alone in the center of top of the cap. But without seeing the revolver, it's just a guess.
..
The top of the nipple is not exactly flat.
It is slighty contoured and the edges are rounded.
By filing the sides you changed the configuration.
The edges are now more sharp. the hammer impact is going to cause the tearing.
But you didn't mention why they did not fit.
Were they too tall and would not fit down, or what.
Guest
,,,,,,,,,Raul said:
nitpicking here. Are you / were you implying the cylinder would not turn with the nipples as is, or
with caps on?
Over 35+ years I have never had a cylinder not revolve regardless of cap brand, because it was too tall. Meaning the cap would not fully seat on the nipple. I have had some that were looser fit than others, just pinched those slightly.
My two Navy Arms Remington style 44's still have factory nipples. Never had a reason to change them out.
My new pietta I bought some treso #11 nipples only because #10 caps have been a little scarce lately, and this would allow carrying one cap in the field as my rifle is #11 also,
