new gun for me: Uberti 1851 Navy!

[Blue_Duck_97]

First things first, I need to make and post some photos of the revolver!

I picked up a Cimarron imported Uberti 1851 Navy today. It is in .36 caliber. The finish of the revolver looks great. The fit of the wood grips is not so great (wood is proud of the frame in several places). The action is incredibly tight. I don't have feeler gauges, but I can barely see daylight between the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone. Overall I'm happy with the looks of the revolver, but I will certainly work on the grips at some point.

Loading was a bit frustrating. I failed to order some slixshot nipples in time to have them on hand today. Initially, I used CCI 10 caps on the stock nipples (because my CCI 11 caps would simply fall off unless I pinched them). Some of the CCI 10 caps would not seat on the nipples (one even split as I tried to seat the cap). I went back to CCI 11 caps and pinched them a bit and had no further issues with caps fitting the stock nipples. After the nipple issue, I discovered my .375 round balls were a bit small for the cylinder. I wasn't getting a shaved ring when seating the .375 balls. And one cylinder would not hold the .375 round ball (it would come back out with the rammer). I swapped the round balls out with some of my .380 conical projectiles made from an Eras Gone bullet mould. I had no issues with the conical projectiles.

Firing the revolver produced some prodigious jams. It seems the action is so tight that any fouling along the face of the cylinder binds the action up. Add in an occasional cap fragment into the mix and the revolver would jam hard.

Lastly, the back of the cylinder only has three safety pins. My other Uberti revolvers (1860 Army and 1862 Pocket Police) all have six or five depending on the model.

With all the above said, I'm happy with the finish of the revolver. I'm hopeful the action will loosen up a bit with more shooting. I think the cap jams will improve with the slixshot nipples installed. I'm not too worried about the missing safety pins, but those missing pins make me wonder who was in charge of quality control when that cylinder came off the line.

Enjoy!

BD

 

[64Springer]

Did you grease the arbor?

Prevents a sticky cylinder.

 

[Blue_Duck_97]

Did you grease the arbor?

Prevents a sticky cylinder.

I didn't grease it, but I did apply a bunch of ballistol to the arbor. Should I use something thicker?

 

[64Springer]

I didn't grease it, but I did apply a bunch of ballistol to the arbor. Should I use something thicker?

Yes.

Grease.

 

[Dobegrant]

Congrats, I recently picked up a colt .36 navy, lots of fun

 

[Blue_Duck_97]

Yes.

Grease.

Thanks, I'll give it a try!

 

[Pete453]

Firing the revolver produced some prodigious jams. It seems the action is so tight that any fouling along the face of the cylinder binds the action up. Add in an occasional cap fragment into the mix and the revolver would jam hard.

Blue Duck, congrats on a great revolver. I have an Uberti 1860army, the cylinder is tight to the forcing cone, like .002". I get the same issue but it comes from the spent caps dragging at the back. I put Slix in it, it runs great but still drags a little bit. Clear the cap fragments, smooth again. I suppose a little bit is going to be normal, as long as it doesn't lock up.
I want to ask you for a favor. Next time you have the barrel off, could you please take a picture of the forcing cone? My Uberti London Navy is a bit deep and the gun is cranky, I'm thinking about buying another barrel and am wondering what Uberti is doing these days. You can see how deep it is in the picture.
Thanks, and welcome to the forum, it's a good place to hang out.

 

[Blue_Duck_97]

Did you grease the arbor?

Prevents a sticky cylinder.

That grease worked wonders! I also robbed some slixshot nipples from my 1860 Army and placed them on my new 1851 Navy. The grease plus the new nipples made a tremendous difference! My only shortfall is .380 balls. My on hand .375 lead round balls will not "stay" in the chambers. I ordered some .380 lead round balls from Track of the Wolf. Plus I have my Eras Gone conical bullet mold and some soft lead. Thanks much for all the input!

 

[Blue_Duck_97]

Blue Duck, congrats on a great revolver. I have an Uberti 1860army, the cylinder is tight to the forcing cone, like .002". I get the same issue but it comes from the spent caps dragging at the back. I put Slix in it, it runs great but still drags a little bit. Clear the cap fragments, smooth again. I suppose a little bit is going to be normal, as long as it doesn't lock up.
I want to ask you for a favor. Next time you have the barrel off, could you please take a picture of the forcing cone? My Uberti London Navy is a bit deep and the gun is cranky, I'm thinking about buying another barrel and am wondering what Uberti is doing these days. You can see how deep it is in the picture.
Thanks, and welcome to the forum, it's a good place to hang out.

Pete, will do. It has been a while since I've posted a pic but will give it a try later this evening. Thanks for the kind words!

 

[Pete453]

Awesome, thanks!

 

[smoothshooter]

First things first, I need to make and post some photos of the revolver!

I picked up a Cimarron imported Uberti 1851 Navy today. It is in .36 caliber. The finish of the revolver looks great. The fit of the wood grips is not so great (wood is proud of the frame in several places). The action is incredibly tight. I don't have feeler gauges, but I can barely see daylight between the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone. Overall I'm happy with the looks of the revolver, but I will certainly work on the grips at some point.

Loading was a bit frustrating. I failed to order some slixshot nipples in time to have them on hand today. Initially, I used CCI 10 caps on the stock nipples (because my CCI 11 caps would simply fall off unless I pinched them). Some of the CCI 10 caps would not seat on the nipples (one even split as I tried to seat the cap). I went back to CCI 11 caps and pinched them a bit and had no further issues with caps fitting the stock nipples. After the nipple issue, I discovered my .375 round balls were a bit small for the cylinder. I wasn't getting a shaved ring when seating the .375 balls. And one cylinder would not hold the .375 round ball (it would come back out with the rammer). I swapped the round balls out with some of my .380 conical projectiles made from an Eras Gone bullet mould. I had no issues with the conical projectiles.

Firing the revolver produced some prodigious jams. It seems the action is so tight that any fouling along the face of the cylinder binds the action up. Add in an occasional cap fragment into the mix and the revolver would jam hard.

Lastly, the back of the cylinder only has three safety pins. My other Uberti revolvers (1860 Army and 1862 Pocket Police) all have six or five depending on the model.

With all the above said, I'm happy with the finish of the revolver. I'm hopeful the action will loosen up a bit with more shooting. I think the cap jams will improve with the slixshot nipples installed. I'm not too worried about the missing safety pins, but those missing pins make me wonder who was in charge of quality control when that cylinder came off the line.

Enjoy!

BD

My Uberti .36 revolvers have larger chambers, so I had to go to .380” balls for all of them.

 

[smoothshooter]

My Uberti .36 revolvers have larger chambers, so I had to go to .380” balls for all of them.
You may need a stronger mainspring that will hold the fired caps in place on the nipples as well.

 

[CVA Enthusiast]

I didn't grease it, but I did apply a bunch of ballistol to the arbor. Should I use something thicker?

Nope, then again to each his own, I just use a little rem-oil. Less mess

 

[CVA Enthusiast]

Ok for my .36 I realize "not all the same" 17 Grains Pyrodex, Dry Wad (no lube) lube contaminates the powder. .375 round ball. Far as cleaning Hot to almost boiling water 1 quart water, 1/2 cup simple/mean green degreaser, brushes, patches once scrubbed clean WD-40 to assist in getting rid of water. Wipe off WD-40 then rem-oil. pretty simple.

 

[Blue_Duck_97]

Blue Duck, congrats on a great revolver. I have an Uberti 1860army, the cylinder is tight to the forcing cone, like .002". I get the same issue but it comes from the spent caps dragging at the back. I put Slix in it, it runs great but still drags a little bit. Clear the cap fragments, smooth again. I suppose a little bit is going to be normal, as long as it doesn't lock up.
I want to ask you for a favor. Next time you have the barrel off, could you please take a picture of the forcing cone? My Uberti London Navy is a bit deep and the gun is cranky, I'm thinking about buying another barrel and am wondering what Uberti is doing these days. You can see how deep it is in the picture.
Thanks, and welcome to the forum, it's a good place to hang out.

Pete, this is what the barrel/forcing cone on my 1851 looks like (using an iPhone 6, so please excuse the poor photo.

 

[smoothshooter]

Nope, then again to each his own, I just use a little rem-oil. Less mess

Some kind ov grease will keep some of the fouling from blowing down inside the arbor hole in the cylinder.

 

[Pete453]

Thanks Blue Duck, that photo is just fine. Yours is shallower, more like my '21 1860. I'm going to have to do something with mine, it's a cranky shooter, it has a mind of its own.
Have fun with yours, the belt size Colts are my favorites.

 

[Blue_Duck_97]

Thanks Blue Duck, that photo is just fine. Yours is shallower, more like my '21 1860. I'm going to have to do something with mine, it's a cranky shooter, it has a mind of its own.
Have fun with yours, the belt size Colts are my favorites.

Agreed and will do! I didn’t think I needed a 1861 navy, but now I’m certain I do . Also, I discovered Cimarron sells a “Lonsome Dove” commemorative Colt Walker. I’m definitely going to scoop one of those horse pistols up some day!

 

[springfield art]

Congrats, I recently picked up a colt .36 navy, lots of fun

They were good enough for Hipshot Percussion, and they're good enough for me!

 

[CVA Enthusiast]

Some kind ov grease will keep some of the fouling from blowing down inside the arbor hole in the cylinder.

I have never had that issue