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Rifling

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Mike Vach

36 Cal.
Joined
Feb 25, 2008
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The more I learn, the dumber I get. Will someone please explain to me what is meant by "cut rifling?" Are there other types of rifling used on muzzleloading barrels? Is one better than the other, ballistically?
 
Cut rifling is just that, a cutting tool is used to mill the rifling into the barrel. Button rifling is done by drawing a tool through the barrel under extreme pressure and forming the rifling in the bore.
I think button rifling is better.

HD
 
It's my opinion that cut rifling is better if shooting patched round balls...Typically, cut rifling will be deeper than button rifling because cut is usually .012-.018 deep, button is usually about .006 deep, so the patch has more to grip...

Button works better with conical as they can flair to the depth of the rifling...

As a rule, mass produced rifles will have button and custom or non-mass produced kits will have cut...
 
HD, now you've done it! Opened the door for a lively discussion over the relative merits of cut-vs-button rifling. Cut rifling is usually much deeper than button rifling; I think each has merits when used in specific circumstances.
 
Cut rifling also doesn't introduce stress into to barrel material the way a button will. If you want to get rid of such strees you can have your barrel cyrogenically treated. JMO
 
mazo kid said:
HD, now you've done it! Opened the door for a lively discussion over the relative merits of cut-vs-button rifling. Cut rifling is usually much deeper than button rifling; I think each has merits when used in specific circumstances.

I wasn't trying to start anything. :surrender:

When I said I thought button rifling was better it wasn't a personal opinion. I meant I thought it produced more uniform rifling. :surrender:

HD
 
Someone should mention that there is also hammer-forged rifling, where a series of hammers pound a barrel that has a mandril inserted into the bore, and imprints the rifling onto the bore of the barrel. This is different than cut rifling, or button rifling. Button rifling is also often done on cut-rifled barrels to smooth the surface of the lands, and remove burrs from the edges of the lands.
 
Ok I'll try to throw a monkey wrench into the works! :grin:
I'm gonna say all three are good methods. Provided the Quality Control is held to the finest standards. You would probably have to bolt the barrels to a Heavy Bench to prove one superior to the other.
Then I will say if your going to make the barrel yourself, it is more doable in the home workshop to cut rifling. Button Rifling takes an awesome Hydralic Broach. And Hammer forging would take a hefty and expensive mechanical hammer and mandrel.
 
Jim, you are right. the hammered barrels are seen in very expensive barrels made mostly in Germany. The Mannlicher works takes great pride in continuing to make barrels using that process. I was told that Weatherby once made its barrels that way, but never heard if they were made here in the states or over seas. Sako is another rifle company that uses hammer forged barrels in many of its guns.
 
You'uns are funny guys. I was only asking because I bought that new Virginia rifle and it's got a Colerain barrel with cut rifling, is all. I was just wondering. I have learned more on this forum than I ever thought. What a wealth of info you guys are.
 
Colerain makes a good barrel and you will like it.
The rifle I'm building is using a .45 cal Greenriver. My next one? I don't know, possibly a Rice or De Haas(SP?). Goetz has a reputation for making the best, but that stellar reputaion make his barrels in great demand and hard to get without a LONG waiting period.Worth the wait, probably?
I'm not sure whether Green Mountain used Button rifling? But am pretty sure the others are cut rifling.

As long as I'm sharing more than you ever wanted to know Here'a a link to a friends site that shows how a simple rifler is made, how rifling is cut and barrels reamed (besides a host of other things. Since he sometimes contributes here I think it's ok to link to his site.
Bookie is a charter member of the CLA. http://www.iowatelecom.net/~toadhall/
 
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I built a rifle years ago w/ a Numrich bbl in .40 cal that wouldn't group. I made a slug w/ molten lead and w/ a small piece of file, I cut the grooves deeper. Came out to be a good shooter. It could have just as easily been a flop, but here cutting worked good.
 
HD, I was just funnin' you. I didn't mean that it would be a bad thing for discussion, just that some topics just seem to generate a lot of response. How else are we gonna learn?
 
J-I... I've made 3 flints w/ Green Mt's and was happy with them. I have 2 .50's and a .32 waiting.
Also, find a copy of the DVD/VHS "The Gunsmiths of Williamsburg". He builds a rifle starting with a chunk of wood, a bar of iron and a basket of scrap brass.
 
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