Removing breach plug

[mrremington]

Hello all. I frequently read people saying not to remove your breach plugs, can some one elaborate for me please. I remove mine for a thorough cleaning. I clean and use barricade on the threads then Use Teflon tape to wrap the threads. All I have to do is finger tighten to line up the barrel and most of the time I don't need a wrench to remove it, after shooting it. Thanks mr Remington

 

[galamb]

I too pull breech plugs occasionally, but I have installed the plugs on all my rifles.

It is sound advice to the "average" owner (don't touch the plug).

Traditions and CVA caplocks have the drum threaded right into the plug itself.

They torque both the plug and the drum (and maybe even add some loctite for good measure???) - in any event - pulling one of those plugs, even if you know what you are doing, can be quite the adventure.

So my advice would always be - IF (IF) you are capable, and can/have install(ed) the breech plug yourself, understand that it must be "timed", then there is no harm in pulling it.

If the thought of installing a plug causes you to reach for the TUMS, you should probably leave it alone.

A poorly installed breech plug can be a very dangerous thing.

 

[ohio ramrod]

Most people would shudder at the thought of a "finger tight" breech plug. I personally would not fire a gun with a breech plug that was not "wrench tight". But if you have been doing it and are still alive to tell about it you must be saying the right prayers. :idunno: :idunno:

 

[frogwalking]

I can't speak about manufactured rifles such as are sold ready to shoot. I have made all the muzzle loading rifles I have owned for many years. I always remove breech plugs during the building phase, but once the rifle, pistol or fowler is complete, have no intention to remove it again. The force required to remove a properly fitted breechplug can damage the finish on the barrel or plug, even when using soft vice jaws. I would not use teflon tape on a breechplug. Teflon tape is for use on tapered pipe threads. Breechplug threads are not tapered.

 

[mrremington]

I once read somewhere where they used it on the nipple thread as well as the breach plug. Before I started to use tape it was sometimes almost imposable to remove the plug even after a coating of oil. It makes cleaning a brease. Although now I am questioning my methods.

 

[zerb]

My thoughts on it are, taking the breech plug out for cleaning is unnecessary. I 've shot a TC flintlock since the 80's and never had the breech plug out, and have never had any problems due to not getting it clean enough. As far as using teflon tape on the threads, you are better off using a good anti seize. teflon tape has no anti corrosion properties, and as someone else said teflon tape is to be used on pipe threads, and its main purpose is a lubricant.

 

[M. De Land]

Good post and sound advice! Mike D.

 

[mrremington]

I use barricade on the threads for a rust inhibitor and i found the tape seemed to work better than anti seize. I'm going to switch things up and not remove the plug for cleaning.

 

[ord sgt]

Maybe I am reading something into this post but judging by your screen name, you have an inline muzzleloader, not the run of the mill side lock muzzleloader. I could be wrong, tho.

With the reproduction M/Lers, it is best to leave the breech plug in place. My first build, over 35 years ago, it took me and my brother to seat the breech plug. That thing will never come out.

I have gotten smarter since then and at least put anti-seize compound on the threads.

 

[mrremington]

No it's not a inline, custom Kentucky flintlock. I think I will leave it be and change my cleaning routine. Thanks

 

[Archie]

If you don't know what you are doing don't pull the breech plugs and it will probably void any warranty on the barrel.

I have pulled the breech plugs on all of my older T/C and Green Mountain barrels which are all over 15 years old. I removed the plugs only because the barrels were becoming rough and felt I needed to inspect the rifling at the deep end and to run some lead remover and really scrub the barrels.

Both T/C and GM use some type of thread lock when assembling. Removal required the use of heat to "boil" the thread lock out then the plug was relatively easy to unscrew.

This is not the same as heating corroded steel to red hot with an acetylene torch.

I used a regular propane torch and it did damage the factory finish on the barrels and plugs.

Removal and re-installing will require a correct sized wrench (not a crescent or adjustable wrench or you risk rolling the flats) and a degree of torque to line up the flats.

I use blue lock-tite when reassembling to ensure they don't move under recoil. In 15+ years I removed the plugs only once so it's not like I am removing the plug every time I clean them.