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Reloading in Field Conditions

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don hepler

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Can someone describe how to carry and prepare for quickly reloading when hunting.

By not having any experience hunting with a smoothbore, I haven't went thru the process of thinking about carry the things that will let me be effective in a hunting situation.
 
"quickly" and "muzzle loader" are oxymoronic phrases when used together.
Forget this notion of a quick follow up shot when hunting. However a 'second' shot may be made in under a minute. The use of premeasured charges in paper cartridges or tubes and/or with a loading block should help you get your shot off fairly quickly. For me, reloading in the field means digging into my shooting bag and pulling out my 'stuff' for the next shot. I use a horn for powder and cut my patch at the muzzle. Not the fastest method but I figger I ain't being chased by Redcoats or injuns so, 'wat the hey'.
 
You are right about the oxymoronic, quick and muzzle loaders, but to me the best second shot is a small 3 ball loading block, and powder from the horn. If you are shot gunning, no fast way.
 
For shot I use a premeasured wax paper powder charge, one wad and one paper shot cartridge. I have not had much success with powder and shot in the same paper cartridges. For round ball hunting I use premeasured powder charges in the plastic ( I know not p.c. ) tubes horse worm medicine comes in with a wooden dowel plug, and a loading block "necklass" with the strap just the right length for loading with the gun but on the ground. :idunno:
 
Shot or Ball?

If Bird or squirrel hunting it would be good to reload as quickly as possible.

I don't shoot shot so can't help you there.
 
"Field conditions" are the only way I shoot. I walk down the hill to my shooting lane for practice - no table or range box/rod. I only shoot target to prepare for hunting so I don't use anything I won't use when hunting.

For ball I use paper cartridges. Ball end dipped in molten beeswax for lube. fast as you need to be (three shots a minute pretty easily - but seldom needed). If I haven't killed whatever with six one-ounce balls (0.648") its time to surrender or just go home.
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Shot I use wads carried in tins.

My bag, shot pouch and horn.
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Wads and cards in one tin, little bag with tools and jags in another. (I don't use the ball block for smoothbores anymore)
HPIM2713.jpg


Shot bag has its own measure in the plug.
HPIM1205.jpg


I make the shot cups for better patterns as used with brown paper bag pieces and a dowel.
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DSCN0122.jpg
 
Forget about fast reloads.....fast just causes problems....take your time and focus on the first shot......take your time.....relax and focus on your reload......if you hurry, you will likely screw up your reload and or your second shot.

Just accept the idea of one shot, and make it count.
 
Your set up is really interesting to a shooter that has never used that method. I am curious as to what is next after the paper is formed on the dowel. Do you dip it in bees wax to hold the form when the dowel is removed?
 
Nope. Poke it in the barrel and drop the shot into it. Then ram it down and finally an over-shot card (with a nick in the side to let the air escape).

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Unlike a plastic shot cup all it really does is keep the shot from scouring along the length of the barrel. Tightend the patterns from about cylinder to improved cylinder. I use a little more shot than powder by volume that adds a few pellets more in the pattern center.
 
:thumbsup: in deer or bigger take your shot then calmly reload, have a smoke, take a drink or hit a couple of licks on you sharpening stone with your knife. Then go and look for your game, small game you hit or miss, no second shot.
 
colorado clyde said:
Forget about fast reloads.....fast just causes problems....take your time and focus on the first shot......take your time.....relax and focus on your reload......if you hurry, you will likely screw up your reload and or your second shot.

Just accept the idea of one shot, and make it count.

:thumbsup:

I oncest shot a lil buck n being in an excited stated I DRY BALLED rushing the reload! Luckily my expert markmanship was still wrking and the buck was found about 20 yds away from the last spot I seen him. Clydes correct....it's a one shot deal. Fer grizzlys you of course have the mountain pistol (just gotta decide if ya use it on the irate bear or yerself :rotf: )
 
In my first question, I did not word it right. I am an experienced hunter with flintlock rifle, but not with a smoothbore using lead shot. I realize that quick and muzzleloading does not go together, but from a humane standpoint, I would like to reload in a reasonable time.

I like the way you have things organized. That is what I was looking for. You have everything well organized, and I really like your set-up.

Thanks
 
Stumpkiller, Since we are interested in your process, can you go into the set up you are using for shooting ball. I see that you have them dipped in bees wax at the end, am I guessing correctly that the powder is in the upper portion of the paper cartridge set up. Can you go through the process of making and using it.


thank you,
gg
 
The paper I use is an old ream of onion-skin typewriter paper. No idea if such paper is still available. It's a little more "brittle" than white printer paper and easier to bite or tear cleanly.

What I do is find or make a dowel of the ball's diameter. A wood dowel with masking tape to bring the diameter up is fine. I have a pattern of cardboard that gives 2-1/2 full rolls around the ball. You may need more paper thickness to get a snug fit depending on your bore/ball marriage. I lay the pattern over 10 sheets or paper or so and cut them out with a razor knife.

Then I roll a paper on the dowel I back it off 1" or so and tuck a ball into the paper tube. Then I wet my fingers and roll the paper tight over the ball. That makes a twisted end - like on a small Tootsie Roll or Smarties candy. With carpet thread I wrap two times over the twisted paper up tight to the ball and tie it off. Then press the ball back in tight with the dowel.

Now, two loops of thread pulled tight up where the ball meets the dowel and tie it off. This just holds the paper tight on the ball and keeps the powder from working down. Pull the dowel out and you have the powder chamber ready.

Now is the time for fancy option #1: Make a waxed paper insert for the powder to keep it dry when hunting and keep any lube from leaching into it. I do this for my hunting squibbs.

Before adding the powder melt a bit of beeswax in a double boiler (I use a pair of vegetable cans). Big one to boil water in and the little one set in it to hold the beeswax. Dip JUST THE BALL part of the cartridge in the wax and allow to cool.

When cool add the powder (measure and tip in) and then flatten the paper tube, fold the two outer flat edges in and crease them, then fold the flat part down in two equal folds. If you go up to the first image up top you can see the finished squibbs. These are authentic (except the waxed paper) to the British style paper cartridge that goes back to the 1740's through as far as round balls were used in muskets.

To load and fire - grasp your cartridge, tear off the folded end, pour the powder in, flip the cartridge over and start the ball, tear the excess paper away (optional) and ram the ball down so that the beeswaxed paper forms a patch around the ball. When I had my Bess I would prime with the cartridge before pouring (BAD PRACTICE BUT AS DONE IN THE DAY) and I could get five aimed shots off in a minute

Three at 60 yards using my 16 bore Brooks fowler (no rear sight) in a familiar household item found in the woods. That's my max deer-hunting distance with a sightless smoothbore. I use 75gr FFg and a 0.648" ball.
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And here's an American cartridge from the Revolutionary War.
cartridge.jpg


Here's a "French" variation with glue instead of thread.
nwta%2Bdot%2Bcom%2Bfrencart.gif



The shot cups I make out of grocery bag paper.
 

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