Refinishing CVA Stock

[DarrinG]

Newbie question:

I acquired an older CVA Bobcat percussion 50 cal. I didn't really need the rifle but had a chance to pick it up for next to nothing. Didn't expect much out of it but when I took it out to shoot it some for the first time, what a surprise!! This little short rifle is very accurate with 75g FFg and a patched round ball. The lock works very smoothly and I was pleasantly surprised with the accuracy. So much so that I upgraded the sights for hunting and ordered a better under-gun ramrod for it. I'm looking forward to whitetail deer hunting with it this fall. Now my question:

The stock is a really light brown...almost yellow-ish looking and does not suit me. The stock itself is perfectly fine...but the color of stain is not my taste. After deer season I'd like to make it a project to see if I can sand it down (if necessary) and stain it a darker, better looking color and maybe with a satin spar urethane finish. Is this possible after it's already got this yellowish-brown stain on it? Any advice on refinishing for a better color?

Thanks in advance!

 

[necchi]

Those guy's use Beech-wood and their finish is hard as a rock.
Don't sand it. Use a chemical stripper first. Follow the instructions.
The do it all a second time!

Then you can sand it for your finish,, but please do seek advice about "sanding" when the time comes.
A lot of projects like your describing means the guy just rubs sandpaper all over the stock in a "hurry-up" way so he can slam his stain on it.
The massive flaws usually seen are the edges of the lock panels are lost, the lock plate sits proud and the butt plate is too large.
Yes, you can re-finish.
Yes, there is a way.
Study the archives here,, There's tons of info. :wink:

 

[Zonie]

Yes. It is fairly easy to do but there is something you need to know first.

I suggest that you use a commercial paint remover that can be found at any local hardware store to remove the old finish.
Follow the instructions and take care not to get any of the stuff on your bare skin.

After the paint remover and a bit of scraping, use some sandpaper to get the last of the old finish off and to smooth the surface. I do not recommend using any sandpaper finer than 220 grit for this purpose.

Now, to the thing you need to know:
The wood is Beech and it is a very close grain wood that does not work well with any kind of oil based stains.
Minwax and similar oil based stains will only lightly penetrate the wood and it will end up looking about the same as your gun does at the moment.

Go to your local gun store or a good hardware store and look for Birchwood Casey Walnut stain.

If you can't find it, look for a water base or an alcohol base stain.
Beechwood will absorb either kind although it may take more than one coat to get it as dark as you want it to be.

I refinished a CVA 12 guage double barrel shotgun using the Birchwood Casey Walnut stain and it came out a nice, rich, dark brown.

CVA-12-guageWEB by James, on Flickr

To finish your gun you can use a urethane finish but it will end up looking like something that should be on a book case.

I think using a stock finish like Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil will produce a much nicer finish that will look quite professional when your done.

Don't brush it on.
Rather, use a cotton rag and rub it into the wood.
Then let it dry.

It will take several coats to build up a nice smooth finish but Tru-oil drys rather fast.

Tung oil will also produce a nice finish but it often takes a little longer to dry.

Keep in mind, there is no deadline on finishing your gun so if it takes a little longer to get it to what you want, don't worry about it.
The more time you take applying extra coats of the finish oil, the better it will look.

 

[coloradoclyde]

Those guy's use Beech-wood and their finish is hard as a rock.
Don't sand it. Use a chemical stripper first. Follow the instructions.
The do it all a second time!

Then you can sand it for your finish,, but please do seek advice about "sanding" when the time comes.
A lot of projects like your describing means the guy just rubs sandpaper all over the stock in a "hurry-up" way so he can slam his stain on it.
The massive flaws usually seen are the edges of the lock panels are lost, the lock plate sits proud and the butt plate is too large.
Yes, you can re-finish.
Yes, there is a way.
Study the archives here,, There's tons of info. :wink:

Necchi is right. don't sand it....and the finish is like a polymer. very difficult to remove without screwing up the stock.

 

[Crewdawg445]

I'll second that, however that skid wood stock will finish up nicely if you follow the advice given. Multiple coats of stripper will need be used to completely remove so said factory finish. When that is done I'd also recommend neutralizing the chemicals from the stripper with regular distilled vinegar. From there rinse it well in water and hang dry it away from all natural light for a few days.

 

[DarrinG]

Thanks gentlemen.

I'm not so sure this is a "factory" finish anyhow. I can feel/see no urethane finish on the stock. It feels like it's just been stained and left at that, which makes me wonder if A) its a kit gun, or B) if someone replaced the stock on it at some point, because a lot of these Bobcat models came with a black synthetic butt-ugly stock.

Should make a good winter project for those long cold winter evenings that's upcoming. Keep the suggestions coming!

 

[Katahdin]

I have "burnished" ,flame stained, wood before,Propane torch pass the flame over the wood till you get the shade I wanted ,and then finished with B.L.O.Some woods just will not take a stain, OH and there is no such thing as "I don't NEED another rifle,and when the price is right,jump on it,it is an investment in your estate,your next of kin will thank you one day.ha ha Weather is turning ,leaves are coloring up,going to be a good day.
Time spent in the wood, is time to be alone without bring lonely.
See you up the trail and if you are in the lead ,don't spit.