• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

CVA STOCKS

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Feb 29, 2020
Messages
1,857
Reaction score
3,680
Location
NC
I have ran across a couple CVA Hawken rifles that turned out to be really good shooters. They both have very light yellow colored stocks. What are my options to get them darkened other than using stain? I know stain is an option just wondering if aquafortis or something on that line is available, looking for a miracle worker. THANKS
 
I have finished & re- finished more than a few of the CVA stocks. I believe they are European beech. I could be wrong on that. Stripped to the bare wood you can make them any color you like with leather stains. I like a reddish brown.

That aside there are varnish’s out there
With the stain built right in them. I’ve used them on house trim. You would need to determine what your finish is now and if compatible experiment on scrap and in the barrel channel. It may even come in a spray now.

Also If you don’t like a shiny finish, when dry buff with 0000 steel wool or scotchbrite and wax

Good luck,
O.R.
 
I've used Transtint dyes to color clear oil finishes (tung oil, boiled linseed oil). The dye is supposedly water-based but it's got some other stuff in it to make it more or less soluble in oil. A few drops go a long way, but I suppose if you try to use too much dye the oil won't take any more. You can affect the top color by using your dyed oil on top of existing finish. Prep the existing finish as you would for any top coat. Prep is important or the oil won't dry and cure properly. You might need to do multiple coats. It's likely to be a lengthy process. As mentioned above, experiment first, if you can, on a spot that can't be seen.

I'm pretty sure both stain (penetrating or gel) and also aquafortis won't work unless you first completely strip the existing finish. The varnish stain mentioned might be a less time and work option. I don't think it gives as nice a finish, as oil, though. But do what works best for you.
 
The Beech wood on CVA stocks is tough to take on stains. Hence the many recommendations for leather stain, specifically Feibings which is alcohol based. I have redone 3 CVA-Traditions stocks with great results. My first was a Mountain rifle and tried a different water based stain. Ended up sanding it back down because it was splotchy and light and then used Feibings.
 
My cva with aqua fortis.
 

Attachments

  • 20221217_095032.jpg
    20221217_095032.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0

Latest posts

Back
Top