Ready to do my Kibler lock.

[SeaRun1]

Hey All,

Merry Christmas. I hope this post finds everyone in good spirits and ready for the holiday. So I have completed three Kiblers this last year but did not brown the locks. I will be browning them with Jax browning solution that I use on all of the other parts.

Heres my question. Are there any parts of the lock that DO NOT get browned? I guess mostly I was thinking that maybe the frizzen was to be left untouched but everything else was good to go?

Also I was just going to sand them down with a couple grades of wet dry sandpaper. Is that correct?

Thanks for your responses ahead of time and Merry Christmas.

SR1

 

[DrLaw]

Don't sand the back of the frizzen that the flint strikes. Otherwise, have fun.

The Doc is out now.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

I file, sand, and use a couple of wheel brushes to finish all the parts of the lock that show except the frizzen face.

I polish all the parts that touch on the inside with a buffing wheel.

Brown everything that shows. Don't brown the internal parts, frizzen face or back of the lock plate.

Merry Christmas!

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
I am sorry but locks (and barrels) browned the way most do them these days looks so 20th and 21st century. If you want to avoid that and of course it is your gun to do as you desire, polish off all the cast texture on all of the external metal. Give the metal a good polish and then a light fine grained rust brown will look much more authentic. Alternatively, polish the lock bright and leave it or heat the polished external parts to blue color (600 degrees) with a torch. Of the Kibler models, only the southern Mountain rifle would have had any browning historically.

dave

 

[wiscoaster]

... Of the Kibler models, only the southern Mountain rifle would have had any browning historically.

Noted, for my next build, whenever that may be.

 

[French Colonial]

I sand and polish the barrel and locks (except the frizzen face and the interior) and use cold blue on them and the barrel and then rub them back.

I like the looks, gives them a nice used but not abused look. The nooks and crannies around the lock and sights will retain the darker color but the open areas will be a lighter gray.

 

[SeaRun1]

Thanks all. I appreciate the advice.

SR1

 

[Eric Krewson]

It is best to start out with needle files to get rid of anomalies and the orange peel look, next wrap your sandpaper around the file to keep everything smooth, level and not round off any surfaces that should have a crisp edge.

 

[Mgbruch]

If you want it to look like a lock from the period, you should file, then sand, all exterior surfaces, except the face of the frizzen. Original locks did not have cast surfaces and casting seams. Those will not disappear with sanding alone, but should be filed. After filing all surfaces, then sand them, and make sure your sandpaper is backed with a hard surface. I usually wrap it around an appropriate sized file. I would say, don't use a polishing wheel. It makes the surface look like you used a polishing wheel... and that wasn't done. Here is a photo of two Chambers locks. One as it came, and the other after filing and initial sanding. Even the frizzen spring should receive attention.

 

[SeaRun1]

Finished up both SMR locks and they look great. Going to let the Woodsrunner lock patina on its own. Once again thanks for all of the advice.

SR1

 

[wiscoaster]

Finished up both SMR locks and they look great.

pics pleeez???

 

[Scota@4570]

Kibler locks are made by CMC and are not cast. Most of it will not require filing, except the cock which is cast. The quality of the cock casting is much better than other locks. Start with 220 sand paper and finish with burgundy scotchbrite. All sanding must be hardbacked. Never buff any thing by machine on a ML.