bldtrailer
Pilgrim
No it's a nibbler for doing tile work (small cuts) it works most the time cutting the flints into useable sizes but now and then it shatters the flint
If you want an unbiased opinion on your chert flints, I am willing to help evaluate them. Just let me know and I will send my address.I knap arrow and spear points and use the waist flakes from the spawls I order to make my gun flints. I use percussion and pressure flaking tools to shape and sharpen them. Once you start using these flat gun flints it will spoil you for the ridge backed ones you buy. They spark every bit as well, last as long if not better than the English flint I was buying from TOTW. I also like and use the Keokuk chert from I think Oklahoma but wanted to try some of the novaculite and see how it compared. Both spark like crazy but am curious to see which last the longest and which is harder on the frizzen face.
I think another benefit to using flatter flints is it leaves more room for the top jaw of the cock (being screwed down closer to the bottom jaw) to clear the frizzen face when arching down to make contact. This should allow more of the flint length to be used as it shortens from wear, thus increasing each flints useful life.
OK, what size do you want to try? I'll knap a half dozen and send them to you for evluation. I'll make half of them in novaculite and the other half in Keokuk chert. I have no desire to go into the gun flint business but could use any honest evaluation help in figuring out what works well or not and will be useful for us all to know one way or the other. I would ask them to be evaluated in spark generation, longevity and frizzen wear difference if it can be noticed in such a short test phase.If you want an unbiased opinion on your chert flints, I am willing to help evaluate them. Just let me know and I will send my address.
thanks for the reply.No it's a nibbler for doing tile work (small cuts) it works most the time cutting the flints into useable sizes but now and then it shatters the flint
I have tried to send a "conversation" to you. Not sure if it went through. Each time that I tried, there seemed to be some type of fault.OK, what size do you want to try? I'll knap a half dozen and send them to you for evluation. I'll make half of them in novaculite and the other half in Keokuk chert. I have no desire to go into the gun flint business but could use any honest evaluation help in figuring out what works well or not and will be useful for us all to know one way or the other. I would ask them to be evaluated in spark generation, longevity and frizzen wear difference if it can be noticed in such a short test phase.
I’m carefully hoarding my supply of Rich’s white chert gunflints. I use them pretty much strictly for hunting as they spark so well in me big Chambers English style locks. I can’t tell you much about longevity as reliability trumps it in my opinion for hunting. BJHSeems like Rich Pierce used that type of material for his gunflints, the best sparkers I ever put in a gun.
The most common "fault" is the writer forgot to put a title in the box that says, "Title".I have tried to send a "conversation" to you. Not sure if it went through. Each time that I tried, there seemed to be some type of fault.
Here in Kansas we have a region known as the Flint Hills. Does anyone know iour flints qualities as gun flint?
I'm not a knapper but many years ago while working in the oil fields i noticed a piece of flint roughly arrowhead shaped. I told my coworker i could make an actual arrowhead from it. He said there was no way. So, I took it in my gloved left hand, holding it tight by my fingers, and using the tang of a file made a honest to gosh arrowhead from it. It was my first and only experience as a knapper. From that experience I reckon Kansas flint my be OK for gun flints.
I did a short video on pressure flaking gun flints a couple of years ago and have it on a card file around here somewhere. If I can find it I'll get my son to help me re-post if there is any interest.
I found it and replied. I need to know if you want 3/4s x 7/8s or 7/8s square or what ever ?I have tried to send a "conversation" to you. Not sure if it went through. Each time that I tried, there seemed to be some type of fault.
Thanks for the reply, guess I can't do it after all.The only way to show a video on the forum is to upload it to a site that handles videos, like YouTube.
Once loaded on the site, open it and copy the files address at the top of the page. Once copied, you can paste the address into a post here on the forum.
The forum isn't set up to down load videos directly from your computer. It also cannot directly link to a file that is stored on your computer.
Heat treating closes the inclusions (cracks) in the chert and flint. Heat treating aligns the crystal structures of the silicate on top of each other making it easier to work with.I only know what the folks I buy the spawls from call it. It is heat treated. I ask the seller about how heat treated chert would work for gun flints and he said it would not be good material for that purpose but being of experimental bent I had to try it anyway and it sparks as good or better than any I have bought from TOTW. I've made up some packets of Keokuk gun flints of five count and given them to friends to try out and make a comparison for me. Two of them wanted more of the flat flints and were willing to pay for them as they had the same opinion I did of how well they worked.
I have read that it is harder on frizzen faces but will have to test this to see if true as well. They're is lot of apple sauce in print out there stated as fact.
I don't really understand what heat treating of chert does to the crystiline structure as it is only about 400 degrees for 6-8 hours! It does make tough chert flake easier bubt I doubt it is hot enough to change the hardness level.
I wonder, would this tend to make it last longer or shorter in gun flint application ?Heat treating closes the inclusions (cracks) in the chert and flint. Heat treating aligns the crystal structures of the silicate on top of each other making it easier to work with.
Yes it does give a shorter life span due to it being more brittle and easier to work with , but sparks better with being treated.I wonder, would this tend to make it last longer or shorter in gun flint application ?
Can you verify that with expert resources. I'm skeptical.Heat treating closes the inclusions (cracks) in the chert and flint. Heat treating aligns the crystal structures of the silicate on top of each other making it easier to work with.
I sure wish heat treatment closed cracks. It does make it glassier and easier to knap.Can you verify that with expert resources. I'm skeptical.
Yeah, I'm sure you've gotten into tough chert before Rich, onery'er than cat hair, ain't it. I tried a bit of brown out of Texas that seemed good right out of the river bed. Got a small nodule from Dixie Gun works that was really tough and needs some heat treating. I've read that soaking it for a few days under water makes it knapp easier but have not actually tried it.I sure wish heat treatment closed cracks. It does make it glassier and easier to knap.
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