Nipple Break

[deanscamaro]

Any bright ideas, other than a screw extractor (which I don't have) to remove the bottom half of a nipple from the drum? I had finished cleaning after a session at the range and was putting the nipple back in, when it broke off at the point of just seating it. Wasn't even a very strong "snugging up" that did it. I guess my alternative is to take it to a gunsmith that is close and see if he has the tools.
:idunno:

 

[rafterob]

By any chance is this a Traditions? I only ask that because their factory nipples seem to be brittle and prone to breaking. I would buy an easy out set, should be able to get one for under $20 at Home Depot or Lowes and then you will always have it. It will cost you at least that much at a gunsmith. Oh-and when you buy that replacement nipple get two or three.

 

[StewartLeach]

A set of the smaller size "easy out" type tools will be a godd investment for anyone doing gun work.

The nipples that come on factory-built rifles and pistols, particularly the Spanish brands, seem to be rather fragile. I've seen broken ones several times.

Replace with a proper size AMPCO bronze nipple. Resists battering well.

White Fox

 

[deanscamaro]

No, the rifle is a Pedrosoli 50 I bought through Dixie as a kit. More than one nipple won't do me much good until I get this one out. I may look at an easy-out set for the future. Also White Fox, thanks for the recommendation on the AMPCO.
:cursing:

 

[Zonie]

Because the nipple is obviously hard (or it wouldn't have broken), and it has a Very small hole in it, an E Z out may be difficult to get in such a small size.
Drilling the hardened steel will not be easy and if you use a standard type drill bit, the torque from drilling will tend to tighten the nipple even tighter.

If you can find a "Left Hand drill bit" that would be the way to start this process. (see this link) http://www.hi-line.com/industrial-supplies/left-handed-drill-bits/

I haven't done business with any of these suppliers but they might be worth a thought http://www.cvfsupplycompany.com/drbi13pcleha.html
http://www.thefind.com/hardware/info-15-piece-hss-drill-bit#page=1
http://www.wikio.com/product/power-drill-bits-reviews-12064-page1-sort0.html?x=6&y=5&gk=left+hand

If you didn't read the links, a Left Hand drill bit turns the opposite direction from a normal Right hand bit.

That means you will have to run the drill backwards but most modern electric drills can do this.
Running backwards makes the bit try to unscrew the bolt or in this case, whats left of the nipple.

Often this will unscrew the broken off piece all by itself.

Use a 1/8 inch up to a 3/16 inch diameter drill bit. This will not damage the existing threads because it is slightly smaller than they are.

If the piece of the nipple doesn't dislodge and unscrew a E Z Out may be needed but it will at least have a hole that is large enough to allow it to have the strength to remove the broken piece.

Before you go ordering something on the Web, give your local hardware store a call.
They may have a 3/16 inch Left Hand drill bit in stock and that would certainly be cheaper than dealing with orders on the Web.

Another way of removing the broken nipple requires a Dremal or equal high speed tool.
Using a thin "cut off wheel" on the 1/8 inch arbor you would cut a screw driver slot into the exposed end of the broken nipple. Then, using a good screw driver that fits the slot you would unscrew the piece.

If you don't have a Dremal (or equal) this is a pretty expensive way to go because they aren't cheap and the little grinding wheels, cut off wheels and burrs are quite expensive.

Because you said you hadn't applied any real torque to the nipple, a pointed center punch might do the job as well.

To use it you would place the pointed tip almost out to the edge of the screw thread on the broken nipple.
Lean it backwards slightly so that when it is struck with a hammer it will drive the nipple piece in a counter clockwise direction.
Then, tap it with a small hammer or mallet.

If your lucky the nipple will turn slightly.
By changing the angle of attack a bit and continued tapping you might be able to unscrew the piece.

Good Luck.

 

[Zonie]

By the way, while I'm on this subject I will give those folks who have a broken nipple in a Cap & Ball revolver a hint.

If you use a standard right hand drill bit BUT DRILL THE NIPPLE OUT BY PLACING THE DRILL IN THRU THE MOUTH OF THE CHAMBER, the right hand rotation (normal rotation for common drill bits) will tend to UNSCREW the nipple as the drill bit bites into the nipple.
This tip comes from an old time gunsmith and was written up in a book he published back in the 1950's.

It will work very well on Colt style revolvers but on Remingtons be very careful to keep the body of the drill from rubbing on the chamber wall.
I say this because the nipples on a Remington are at a slight angle from the chambers axis and you don't want the flutes of the bit to be gouging out the chamber mouth while your drilling.

 

[ozark57]

I have owned a machine shop for 30 years. I will not allow easy outs in the shop as they create more problems than they solve. The left hand drill is always a good choice. Before you drill put a small drill through the nipple to see the correct angle to drill. If you have a drill press and can clamp the bbl. to the table you can use this set up drill to align the chuck.Look up a drill speed chart on the internet and don't over-speed the drill. 30 minutes of setup for 2 minutes to drill is the norm in a machine shop.

 

[smil]

hello,

many broken bolts are easily backed out by tapping with a sharp prick punch. Get a good bite, then try tapping with a small hammer counter-clockwise and outward. Don't force it, but always try this before drilling.

 

[deanscamaro]

Thanks, Zonie and everyone. These are some great ideas. I will assess what I have in stock in my tools and see which seems the right trick to start with. I guess if I screw something up, the worse case would be I damage the drum and I suppose I can replace that, if need be. I almost think the idea of cutting a slot with a Dremel, since I have one, if I have a small enough metal cutting blade, might be the one to start with. The sharp punch might also be something to try, unless the hardness of the remaining nipple part might get in the way.
:bow: :thumbsup:

 

[BrownBear]

I got one out for a neighbor in the Southwest using a novel approach, mostly because he didn't have an easy out, a punch or electricity. I degreased the nipple base, put on a small dab of 5-minute epoxy (careful not to get too much) and pressed a short 3/16" machine screw into place and held it till hard. Let it cure overnight, then used a screw driver next morning to extract the screw and the attached nipple base. Worked well, but I wouldn't expect the epoxy to hold up if the base was really locked in.

 

[deanscamaro]

Well, I had thought about the epoxy solution. I thought about taking the barrel screw out of the end, put a coil of paper inside the barrel and then setting something in epoxy that would go down through the nipple hole, but not into the barrel.

But one of the suggestions was to somehow cut a slot in the remaining nipple part in the barrel, then using a common screwdriver to get it out. The only thing I could think of to cut a slot was something with my Dremel.

VOILA!!! I have some of those thin cutting disks that fit on a Dremel shaft with a screw to tighten it on the shaft. The only problem was the diameter of the disks was too big, so I turned the Dremel on and my bench grinder on and turned a disk down to a tiny diameter using the grinder to trim it down as they both turned. Once I had it small, I tried it on the remaining nipple part, cut a slot and turned out the part from the barrel. IT WORKED!!

Thanks everyone for ideas!
:thumbsup: :v :applause: :applause: :applause: