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My 1st Ruger Old Army

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waarp8nt

Smidgin Injun
MLF Supporter
Joined
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Location
East of the Kaskaskia River in Illinois Country
Nearly bought one years ago at a gunshow, dealer offered to hold it for me. Told him no, if it's still there after I make it around, I'll buy it. It sold shortly after I walked away. Lesson learned. This one came from Packrat, it has it's issue, the barrel has a bulge in it. I knew it when I bought it, price was fair so I'll likely have it fixed when the part becomes available. I'm on an email list for a barrel, s 3rd generation Colt barrel will fit, but I'm waiting on a new blank barrel to have it turned and installed. I will likely shoot it in the mean time to see how well it shoots.

Looking forward to reading more about the ROA here on the forum!

Here is a picture of it with my deceased buddy's Civil War holster / belt rig. I thought they looked well in the picture together.

20240205_190100.jpg
 
Nearly bought one years ago at a gunshow, dealer offered to hold it for me. Told him no, if it's still there after I make it around, I'll buy it. It sold shortly after I walked away. Lesson learned. This one came from Packrat, it has it's issue, the barrel has a bulge in it. I knew it when I bought it, price was fair so I'll likely have it fixed when the part becomes available. I'm on an email list for a barrel, s 3rd generation Colt barrel will fit, but I'm waiting on a new blank barrel to have it turned and installed. I will likely shoot it in the mean time to see how well it shoots.

Looking forward to reading more about the ROA here on the forum!

Here is a picture of it with my deceased buddy's Civil War holster / belt rig. I thought they looked well in the picture together.

View attachment 292248
Can you take a photo of the bulge. Usually they show up good looking down the top of the barrel at a window in day light.
 
Can you take a photo of the bulge. Usually they show up good looking down the top of the barrel at a window in day light.
Didn't have any natural light by the time I got off work and finished working on the house. I tried to get a picture with a work light on a shelf in an attempt to mimic the window with natural light. I can see it, but then again I know the location of the bulge. Look by the INC. stamping on barrel.

I tried an old trick I was taught at the St. Louis Chrysler Training Center (AKA the parts warehouse) next to McDonnell Douglas just off McDonnell Blvd. The trick was taught to us mechanics as a quick check to verify a valve was straight before we took the time to grind it. Use the tips of your fingers and run then down the lenght of the barrel. Any difference, bend, bulge or otherwise is easily felt. I later learned this method was used in some manufacturing facilities during WWII. I can take a picture later with my calipers if anyone is interested.

20240206_174137.jpg


20240206_174148.jpg


20240206_174154.jpg
 
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Didn't have any natural light by the time I got off work and finished working on the house. I tried to get a picture with a work light on a shelf in an attempt to mimic the window with natural light. I can see it, but then again I know the location of the bulge. Look by the INC. stamping on barrel.

I tried an old trick I was taught at the St. Louis Chrysler Training Center (AKA the parts warehouse) next to McDonnell Douglas just off McDonnell Blvd. The trick was taught to us mechanics as a quick check to verify a valve was straight before we took the time to grind it. Use the tips of your fingers and run then down the lenght of the barrel. Any difference, bend, bulge or otherwise is easily felt. I later learned this method was used in some manufacturing facilities during WWII. I can take a picture later with my calipers if anyone is interested.

View attachment 292436

View attachment 292437

View attachment 292438
I think I can see it but take your word . What I meant was to take a photo from above and behind looking down the barrel length. This makes any bulge show up as it contrasts the rest of the barrel with the bulge linearly .
This is an old trick used when draw filing a barrel to get it flat and level removing all the radial imperfections that show up when looking down barrel at open sights..
These guns command enough value now days to warrant re-barreling or lining. I'm not sure what the twist is but I can check mine if you want to know.
Might be the same as their standard Black Hawk barrel as a fast twist would not hurt for ball or bullet shooting.
 
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Bought one in 1978 and still have it. Bought a stainless one a year ago from my neighbor. It was a ~40 yo safe queen that had 12 rounds fired through it. Best deal ever and I paid more than he asked. Loads of fun!
Be aware that stainless guns will corrode as well just not quite as fast as blued guns. You should see some of these stainless Halibut guns in salt air environs .
 
I think I can see it but take your word . What I meant was to take a photo from above and behind looking down the barrel length. This makes any bulge show up as it contrasts the rest of the barrel with the bulge linearly .
This is an old trick used when draw filing a barrel to get it flat and level removing all the radial imperfections that show up when looking down barrel at open sights.

I certainly misunderstood how to take the picture. I tried a to retake it as you described, but it didn't turn out very well. I'll try again tomorrow with some natural light.

These guns command enough value now days to warrant re-barreling or lining. I'm not sure what the twist is but I can check mine if you want to know.
Might be the same as their standard Black Hawk barrel as a fast twist would not hurt for ball or bullet shooting.

I wasn't sure if there is enough meat in the barrel to install a liner, but that would be the easiest fix. Especially since its hard to see from the outside. I am curious the rate of twist if you would be so kind to check.
 
Be aware that stainless guns will corrode as well just not quite as fast as blued guns. You should see some of these stainless Halibut guns in salt air environs .
Yep. There is a reason SS was marketed as stain-LESS steel 100+ years ago when it first came out. The name stuck. It is not stain-PROOF.

My 20+ year neighbor is a gun enthusiast. He inspects,cleans and oils his safe queens annually and everything climate controlled. Sadly he doesn't shoot the holy black at all. These were left to him by an uncle. He wanted room in a safe after a few decades, and figured I'd pay more than the LGS would give him. He was right.

All the "new" ones I bought are in impeccable shape. The original Springfield will need some work and may end up a wall hanger. Time will tell.
 
I certainly misunderstood how to take the picture. I tried a to retake it as you described, but it didn't turn out very well. I'll try again tomorrow with some natural light.



I wasn't sure if there is enough meat in the barrel to install a liner, but that would be the easiest fix. Especially since its hard to see from the outside. I am curious the rate of twist if you would be so kind to check.
Actually a replacement barrel wouldn’t be a terribly difficult operation either for a qualified gunsmith. If you reline it Bobby Hoyt may be able to cut progressive rifling for you.
 
Didn't have any natural light by the time I got off work and finished working on the house. I tried to get a picture with a work light on a shelf in an attempt to mimic the window with natural light. I can see it, but then again I know the location of the bulge. Look by the INC. stamping on barrel.

I tried an old trick I was taught at the St. Louis Chrysler Training Center (AKA the parts warehouse) next to McDonnell Douglas just off McDonnell Blvd. The trick was taught to us mechanics as a quick check to verify a valve was straight before we took the time to grind it. Use the tips of your fingers and run then down the lenght of the barrel. Any difference, bend, bulge or otherwise is easily felt. I later learned this method was used in some manufacturing facilities during WWII. I can take a picture later with my calipers if anyone is interested.

View attachment 292436

View attachment 292437

View attachment 292438
Looks like bulge is located where 'Inc.' is stamped in the barrel address.
Explanation for those not aware;
Barrel bulges occur when a low-charge is fired & the round doesn't leave the barrel, when
the next round is fired & collides with the stuck ball the barrel will bulge or burst if there is enough pressure.
Had this occurred with a smokeless powder firearm with higher pressures the bulge would be much bigger or worse.
Relic shooter
 
Having has a Super Blackhawk with a 'bulge' (my bad reload) it was difficult (almost) to see externally. But it was detected easily when running a patched jag down the barrel (e.g. tight-loose-tight)! Accuracy was not affected, but reloading practices were.

Just a follow up: the 'bulge' can be rectified by a barrel replacement or swap (what I did). But shooting low powered loads can be done with the existing 'bulged' barrel.
 
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Having has a Super Blackhawk with a 'bulge' (my bad reload) it was difficult (almost) to see externally. But it was detected easily when running a patched jag down the barrel (e.g. tight-loose-tight)! Accuracy was not affected, but reloading practices were.
Happens to the best of us pard :thumb:
 
Didn't have any natural light by the time I got off work and finished working on the house. I tried to get a picture with a work light on a shelf in an attempt to mimic the window with natural light. I can see it, but then again I know the location of the bulge. Look by the INC. stamping on barrel.

I tried an old trick I was taught at the St. Louis Chrysler Training Center (AKA the parts warehouse) next to McDonnell Douglas just off McDonnell Blvd. The trick was taught to us mechanics as a quick check to verify a valve was straight before we took the time to grind it. Use the tips of your fingers and run then down the lenght of the barrel. Any difference, bend, bulge or otherwise is easily felt. I later learned this method was used in some manufacturing facilities during WWII. I can take a picture later with my calipers if anyone is interested.

View attachment 292436

View attachment 292437

View attachment 292438
I'll get mine out and check the twist rate for you. Mine is a Centenial model made in 1976. I'd keep my eye peeled for a Ruger take off barrel in .45 cal at gun shows in which case it probably would be an easy change out with the addition of the loading lever catch stud . I'd bet Ruger just used the standard Black Hawk pitch In the ROA barrel but will check mine for you and see if it is the same pitch as a 45 Colt barrel.
I did find a post where 45D stated the barrels , rifling and pitch were the same in the ROA and .45 Colt Ruger barrels.
 
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I'll get mine out and check the twist rate for you. Mine is a Centenial model made in 1976. I'd keep my eye peeled for a Ruger take off barrel in .45 cal at gun shows in which case it probably would be an easy change out with the addition of the loading lever catch stud . I'd bet Ruger just used the standard Black Hawk pitch In the ROA barrel but will check mine for you and see if it is the same pitch as a 45 Colt barrel.
I did find a post where 45D stated the barrels , rifling and pitch were the same in the ROA and .45 Colt Ruger barrels.
I believe that’s true.
 
Be aware that stainless guns will corrode as well just not quite as fast as blued guns. You should see some of these stainless Halibut guns in salt air environs .
Can you please explain “Halibut gun”? Thanks.

Is it because they are so large they need to be shot to get in the boat?
 

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