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First Ruger Old Army questions...

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leadhoarder

45 Cal.
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Plenty of holster makers out there for single actions. For a less authentic but more comfortable all day carry I like the holsters from simply rugged.
 

shorthair

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Use a filler, Cream of Wheat, Corn Meal and Grits work well enough. Will help with accuracy. Corn Meal and Grits can compress so be aware of what you are doing when loading so you don't get inconsistent loading of chambers.
A thick wad or 2 could also work for lower powder charges.
That Ruger can hold up to 45 grains of powder and a .457 roundball. Most folks with them tend to load around 25-35 grains of pistol powder for best accuracy.
With pyrodex my old hunting buddy loads the chamber full rams it down a couple of times then a lubed wad and ball, and has been doing it for over 20 years with no noticeable issues and dang fine accuracy to boot.
I never did try black in mine either but it also shot fine with a full cylinder.
 
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No transfer bar.

In the ROA the hammer hits the frame, not the nipple. When there is a cap on the nipple, the thickness of the cap makes up the difference between the hammer hitting the frame, and not hitting the nipple. The upside of this unique construction is that you can dry-fire the ROA until the cows come home - something I don't bleeve is possible with any other BP revolver made.
 
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I recently purchased my first ruger old army percussion revolver. 1974, Blued, (edit) adjustable sights with the 7.5 inch barrel. Couldn't have been fired more than a couple cylinders worth. She's nice. What is the lowest powder charge one can shoot using balls without wads or filler? So far I have been using 30 grn and works great.
Also I have noticed all the ruger grips seem to be proud. Has anyone "fitted" them or do you just leave them as is? The grip is a little fat for my liking but I don't want to loose the dark color that it comes with. I feel I could make it more comfortable though.
Also looking for a good holster. Is there anyone on here that makes a good ruger holster? Examples please. Not looking for anything super fancy or a flap holster. I'm looking to spend 150 or less, preferably less. Thank you guys.

First 15yard group. Each square is one inch.
There are many replacement grips available; just take off and save the originals. Try NC Ordnance if you're looking for historical-looking ones, plus there's many other offerings out there. Good luck, that's a great pistol!
 
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I was in a hurry when I typed that, I have no idea why I said fixed sight haha. I know it's adjustable. It is now hitting point of aim.
I noticed that the plunger doesn't go in very far so I was wondering if 25 grains would be safe with no filler or wad? I know ball at the top is better, but I'm talking about just out shooting cans in the back yard and such. Someing I can just change the spout on the flask and have fun.
Blackpowderart,
As was stated earlier your accuracy will always be better the closer the projectile is to the forcing cone of the revolver. If you don't wish to use a light load and a filler of whatever type you might consider using a Lee .456 round nose slug. The bullet is longer and for close up practice 25 grains with the slug may very well be more accurate that 25 grains with a roundball and no filler or wad. I shoot 30 grains of FFFg under a lubed slug and it is very authoritative and accurate in my Old Army.
 
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Blackpowderart,
I have an ROA of about the same vintage as yours. Great guns!
For grips, anything made for a Blackhawk (not Super Blackhawk) will fit, but some may need fitting. I've been using a set of curly maple grips made by a late friend, he knew his stuff. They're extended below the gripframe about 5/16", they feel great.
I haven't tried lighter charges, and refuse to use fillers, so can't help with that. That Slixspring extended ram does look slick though.
No help on the holsters either.
 

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I recently purchased my first ruger old army percussion revolver. 1974, Blued, (edit) adjustable sights with the 7.5 inch barrel. Couldn't have been fired more than a couple cylinders worth. She's nice. What is the lowest powder charge one can shoot using balls without wads or filler? So far I have been using 30 grn and works great.
Also I have noticed all the ruger grips seem to be proud. Has anyone "fitted" them or do you just leave them as is? The grip is a little fat for my liking but I don't want to loose the dark color that it comes with. I feel I could make it more comfortable though.
Also looking for a good holster. Is there anyone on here that makes a good ruger holster? Examples please. Not looking for anything super fancy or a flap holster. I'm looking to spend 150 or less, preferably less. Thank you guys.

First 15yard group. Each square is one inch.
I have a blued 200th year centennial model that works very well. All I have ever done to it was give it a trigger job. It may be just me but I have always found that any of my percussion revolvers are just as accurate with full charges and the balls seated flush with the chamber mouth as they are with reduced loads and filler.
 
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That is strange, indeed. Why not? Is it a religious thing? 😉 Wads are a good choice. You can make yer own or purchase.
Religious? No, not really. It's too much fiddling around. There's enough to do already when loading, I just use enough more powder to get some compression and go with it. I don't have a hard spot with those that do, but it's not for me. If it's working for you, by all means, keep it up.
I do make my own wads, I do use them religiously, they give great results.
 
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I got the Slixprings extended ramrod Friday afternoon. It only comes "in the white". I took some steel wool to it and several coats of perma blue. After oiling it up, I think it looks rather well. It isn't a perfect match, but nothing ever is. The rammer itself seems the be of good quality, the fit and finish is spot on and even seems smoother overall than the original. Not that there is anything wrong with the original, but mine is a 1974 model and manufacturing has come a ways since then. Either way, It will only be installed while shooting reduced charges and round ball. I had loaded 30 grains with the original rammer and then installed the extended and it pushed the ball somewhere between and 1/8 and a 1/4 inch further in. I will be officially trying it out tomorrow with my new slixshot nipples. Will let you know how it turns out. It looks better in the picture than it does in real life. This is the first thing I have ever blued, perhaps there are better products or methods that could achieve an even closer match.

The red photo is not my photo, it's just to show what it looks like new. I forgot to take pics before I got to work on it.
 

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Johnny Tremain

Silversmith in training
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Back in the day, they blew them up trying to fill them with as much powder as possible.

To the OP, Track Of the Wolf has slim Jim holsters starting at $20.
My $20 one is on this website somewhere. It was brown, now black.
 

CaptainVane

Colt ‘51 & Remington ‘58 .36; Colt ‘48 .31
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Gonna give a shout out in support of Dells Leather Works. Small, leather business upstate NY. Makes authentic holsters and other leather goods. Hand made and surprisingly reasonably priced. Check him out.
Support your small businesses!
No relation.
 
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I got the Slixprings extended ramrod Friday afternoon. It only comes "in the white". I took some steel wool to it and several coats of perma blue. After oiling it up, I think it looks rather well. It isn't a perfect match, but nothing ever is. The rammer itself seems the be of good quality, the fit and finish is spot on and even seems smoother overall than the original. Not that there is anything wrong with the original, but mine is a 1974 model and manufacturing has come a ways since then. Either way, It will only be installed while shooting reduced charges and round ball. I had loaded 30 grains with the original rammer and then installed the extended and it pushed the ball somewhere between and 1/8 and a 1/4 inch further in. I will be officially trying it out tomorrow with my new slixshot nipples. Will let you know how it turns out. It looks better in the picture than it does in real life. This is the first thing I have ever blued, perhaps there are better products or methods that could achieve an even closer match.

The red photo is not my photo, it's just to show what it looks like new. I forgot to take pics before I got to work on it.
I wonder about sleaving the chambers and rebarreling a ROA to .357 diameter. Bet that would make a real nice target gun. One could reduce the cylinder length to hold about fifteen grains and extend the new barrel breech back to accomodate the shortened cylinder.
It would need a ball diameter of about .360 .
 
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I did get out Sunday afternoon for a little plinking. Started with the 30grain loads I had been using with the stock rammer. The stock rammer bottoms out before any compression happens with 30 grains. With the new Slixprings rammer, I was able to compress the 30grn load. It had a surprising Pop that I wasn't expecting when fired. Compression is important for full power. Next I decided to try some 25grn paper cartridges I had made up for my New
Model army. They went off as expected. Next I decided I would try 20grn. Still I was able to get full compression with the light charge. It also happend to be the most accurate. This is the first time I have used and lube while shooting a black powder revolver. I used strait crisco. I put it in a
Zip lock bag, and cut the corner off. I used it
Like someone decorating a cake with icing. I just put a little squirter in each hole and didn't have to get my fingers dirty or use any extra supplies. I didn't use any filler and the fouling was super soft. I was able to extend my shooting time with ease. Next I decided I would try 15grn. This is the point where compression is finally lost. However the revolver was still extremely accurate. At this point my target had to ragged holes. It was time to head in, so I started shooting at different spots on the target just to make sure I was on paper. I was. It shot a couple inches lower with the reduced charge and lower even with the 30 grn I had sighted it in with using the stock rammer with no compression. This will be the rammer I use most unless I am using conicals. I've never shot any, but I doubt they will clear the extended rammer.

The hole in the neck is mostly the 20grn charge. All shots that day were at 15yds. Most were from a downed tree resting on one knee. A couple cylinders were off hand as fast as I could shoot. Again this is a small target, not man sized.I just go to the woods behind my house to shoot and mess around. Overall I am very happy with the slixprings rammer.

Also the Slixshot nipples were good as well. Sometimes the spent cap would catch the frame, but they were so exploded that the action was able to "chew them up" so to speak. Vigorously cocking the hammer threw most off the nipples until it got really dirty and then a few would hold on, but mostly not a problem either way. I usually have a brass brush with me to keep the nipples clean to mitigate any issues. Now
Only if they made a 36cal old army
 

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I did get out Sunday afternoon for a little plinking. Started with the 30grain loads I had been using with the stock rammer. The stock rammer bottoms out before any compression happens with 30 grains. With the new Slixprings rammer, I was able to compress the 30grn load. It had a surprising Pop that I wasn't expecting when fired. Compression is important for full power. Next I decided to try some 25grn paper cartridges I had made up for my New
Model army. They went off as expected. Next I decided I would try 20grn. Still I was able to get full compression with the light charge. It also happend to be the most accurate. This is the first time I have used and lube while shooting a black powder revolver. I used strait crisco. I put it in a
Zip lock bag, and cut the corner off. I used it
Like someone decorating a cake with icing. I just put a little squirter in each hole and didn't have to get my fingers dirty or use any extra supplies. I didn't use any filler and the fouling was super soft. I was able to extend my shooting time with ease. Next I decided I would try 15grn. This is the point where compression is finally lost. However the revolver was still extremely accurate. At this point my target had to ragged holes. It was time to head in, so I started shooting at different spots on the target just to make sure I was on paper. I was. It shot a couple inches lower with the reduced charge and lower even with the 30 grn I had sighted it in with using the stock rammer with no compression. This will be the rammer I use most unless I am using conicals. I've never shot any, but I doubt they will clear the extended rammer.

The hole in the neck is mostly the 20grn charge. All shots that day were at 15yds. Most were from a downed tree resting on one knee. A couple cylinders were off hand as fast as I could shoot. Again this is a small target, not man sized.I just go to the woods behind my house to shoot and mess around. Overall I am very happy with the slixprings rammer.

Also the Slixshot nipples were good as well. Sometimes the spent cap would catch the frame, but they were so exploded that the action was able to "chew them up" so to speak. Vigorously cocking the hammer threw most off the nipples until it got really dirty and then a few would hold on, but mostly not a problem either way. I usually have a brass brush with me to keep the nipples clean to mitigate any issues. Now
Only if they made a 36cal old army
In rethinking my former reply about rebuilding an ROA to .357 with shortened cylinder It would make a lot more sense to do it to Pietta and not be cutting up a limited supply gun that is no longer being made. Actually my Pietta 58 that has been worked over with chamber reaming and bore lapping is more accurate than my Stock ( except for trigger job) ROA.
 
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