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Gunny5821

Richard Turner
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Sure the punched out cups don't look pretty. They do the job for most of us.You don't offer anything better. If you use punched out role caps all them layers of paper will affect the power of the charge.You don't get that if the dots are lifted off the paper and then used in the cup. The role caps aren't as cheap as they used to be. If you use several dots per cup the cost per cup can easily get higher than using the powders. Plus the powders are more powerful and work better. Been there and done that.
Didn't intend to strike a nerve, sounds like you got a burr under your saddle today. If you reread my above post, I stated that I have never made homemade caps, the post was only a suggestion as to how to use a hollow tube leather punch vice sitting at the table and whittling out the dots with a pair of scissors. Also stated that I found a punch diameter that will cut them to fit the primer cup without any fiddling around with the dot. Now as to whether dots are more powerful with or without the paper backing, that should stand to reason. I posted several months ago that I had researched with my tool and die maker, having progressive punch and forming dies made to produce the percussion cups out of brass or copper. Even though the dies are small compared to the punch dies I currently use in the shop, they are still astronomical to make for the piece they produce. Last estimate was $12,000 for the die set, and you would have to sell 750,000 before you would see any profit, selling each finished brass cup at .02 per unprimed piece/cup. The quality and appearance of the brass cup would be equal to or better than a Remington cap.
 
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Gonna try something different. Saw a YouTube using 22 lr bullet, stripped of bullet and powder then cut down BP #11 primers. Seemed wasteful, but video showed they worked. Picked up a handful of empty brass at range. I’ve heard German toy gun caps are powerful enough to use as caps. So, I’m gonna trim down the empty brass, cut down caps (2400, $21.00) glue in brass. Will report on result.
 

n.h.schmidt

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Ok Gunny. I apologize,I was too quick with that. No insult was intended. It would be nice to have equipment to make better cups.Nobody is going to spend that kind of money for it though. I went down the toy pistol cap road some years ago.Did the punch out thing with a paper punch. Pretty much maxed out with 5 per cup still had a lot of failure to fires. Then went to harvesting the dots from the paper.I used ten to twelve dots per cup. That was a BIG improvement Finally had something that worked. Best with BP though.Not as good with Pyrodex (my real goal). At the cost of the role caps today ,it's a lot cheaper to do the powders.You also have all the power you could want.
Buck $21.00 per 2400 wow that's robbery.If I was still using them at 12 dots per cup ,that would only make 200.
 

russellshaffer

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Pretty easy to make one if you have a lathe or a friend with one. It only took me three tries to get a good one, but I'm not a machinist. The dimensions are all here. I cut the slot for the aluminum sheet with a hacksaw and used a triangle file to do the teeth. I use one punched out cap and a scoop made from a small pistol primer to dump in some fine powder of your choice. They work fine but don't feed through my loaders.
 

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Center_shot

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Cool to build one yourself (if you have equipment and knowhow), but the one available from 22reloader.com is a nice piece of kit and worth the $50 to me.
 

smoothshooter

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I've been using one of the commercial "kits" to make percussion caps for about a year now. I admit to only making a few hundred until now. I was just using them at the range while continuing to use store-bought caps in the field. For the time being, there are no store-bought caps to buy. Additionally, I hit some snags with my caps. For the first time, a few caps did not explode (at a range session). I do not know if it is because they were loaded poorly, 6-months old, or some other factor. Introduce a new rifle. This rifle shredded the caps. Previously I was getting quite a deformed cap upon firing, but this rifle apparently has a sharp nipple with a lot of taper. Some of the caps ended up with the nipple coming through and the cap remains down on the nipple, like the nipple punched a hole in the cap. Actually, some fail to fire caps did end up with a hole in them.

I've changed a few things and made a big improvement. I bought the thinnest brass and copper sheets I could find at the francise Art stores. They all ended up too thick. I went back to the good old soda can, but instead of a single ply, I folded the strips and made double-ply. These are much more rigid caps. They stay together and some could be re-used (not that I'm going to use them). I had concerns about the two layers separating but that has not happened.

I mix the priming compound in a glass dish. I began using an "Artistic" paint brush with "real hair" to mix and fold the 4 ingredients in the glass dish. This brush is about 5/8 wide. It allows me to get all the fine powder into one spot and fold it over and over. It easy to move around and separate the priming mixture throughout the glass dish.

For putting the priming mixture into the caps I was just pouring it in there from the little scoop that comes with the kit, or a teaspoon. I got some little plastic funnels from the doctors office. They go on the thing they look in your ears and nose with. The tip of this fits in the percussion cup just right. I use the amount of mixture I want in a little scoop and pour it into the funnel. The wider part of the funnel helps get it in there without spillage. Then I ease up the funnel and the mixture stays put in there.

I was mixing Acetone and Duco in a little cup and trying to drizzle it into the percussion cup. Now I just put a small amount of acetone on a teaspoon and squirt in a few drops of the Duco. Using a wood stick, I mix it right on the spoon and then "walk" a drop off the end of the spoon using the wood stick, and into the percussion cup.

One rifle has nipples that are apparently a slightly different size or configuration than my others. These home-made caps go on kind of loose, they are too open to close around the contour of the nipple. I take the nipple and hold it in a pair of pliers with rubber ends. Then I put each cap on that nipple and give it a little squeeze to form it to the nipple. It will twist back off. Of course, use safety precautions. These caps still work on the other nipples because they will expand when I push them down onto the nipple, so no problem there. It worth a few minutes at home to form-fit the caps than to do it one at a time on a nipple that is installed on a loaded rifle.

WIth a few changes, my caps are more durable, more reliable and better fitting. Always open to learn another way to make the caps even better! Who knows when they're back in the stores and how long you have to stand on your head - or in line - to buy them.
Have you tried fingernail polish or clear lacquer paint to seal your priming compound in the cups?
 
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spray hair stuff, like yer wife or your girl friend fogs up the crapper room with, Dont take much just a quick mist and let dry. And besides it combustible (at least thats what a friend told me)
 

docmel

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I stay away from primer mixtures I use toy cap gun strip caps, one for each cap, which I do not seal with any type of concoction. Deformed caps I have found, may come from pressing the tool too quickly.
 
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Be careful the prime when mixed will be ez to set off....Only made 2 batches going to trade mine off for about anything😁
 

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n.h.schmidt

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I have done the same thing. Mine was worse. My mistake was to crush out some lumps AFTER mixing the other powders. I still use the powders but I now mix wet using water. No risk with that
 
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