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Lightening a worm stain...

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yellowhammer

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...for example, like this:

Screenshot_20231113-155119~2.png


Anyone tried strong bleach, or maybe diluted muriatic acid, etc, applied with a small brush along the stain? Or maybe even mask it off and fog a light water- based paint coat over it? Had any success with other methods?
 
I've never done this but there is a product called wood bleach or oxalic acid. You can probably buy it from Home Depot. It is advertised to lighten stains.
 
Fill worm holes with brown stained epoxie , and artificial striping might look good on the stock shown , as it looks like the stock is plain w/o any figure. This way the worm stain won't look like it's a walnut floating in a bucket of milk.
 
Fill worm holes with brown stained epoxie , and artificial striping might look good on the stock shown , as it looks like the stock is plain w/o any figure. This way the worm stain won't look like it's a walnut floating in a bucket of milk.
There's a ton of grain and mineral streaking hiding in that stock.

Trying to hide it will look awful.
 
I would treat that stock like every other maple stock. Treat with aqua fortis maybe even twice or more. That will darken all the surrounding grain. Then treat with the stain of choice for color.
That “defect” will still be visible, but will blend in with the darker grain after treatment.
 
I've built several guns with the same termite holes and staining , in them. I had a standing order for this type maple wood. I also prefered this wood because the price was usually less. I've seen original rifles with these anomolies , and to me , that gives me license to build rifles with the wood. I use alcohol stains , and can create any staining necessary to enhance , hide , grain patterns , and or figure. To make wood dark , apply black alcohol stain first. The bonus to this is , any figure , curl , etc. , is enhanced w/o unnecessary excess application of water . Dry immediately with a heat gun , and polish with OOOO steel wool. Dewiskering is also done with this step. As with any staining , testing of the color shades should be done on scrap wood before final shades of stain is applied. Back in the early 1970's , I tried most of the chemical agents recommended for use on wood , and found they were hard to control the reactions achieved on perfectly fine maple wood. Though I followed all the directions attempting to stop the unwanted stain results , I ended up with green stocks after time passed , and other chemical proceedures , that just turned black in time. Alcohol stains can easily be repaired if damaged , as well. That's why I use alcohol stains. I consulted several of the master gunstockers early in my experience , and alcohol was their choice for the same reasons I've stated. LOL , do as you wish.
 
As to your original question , can staining be sanded out. .......If the stock is shaped and sanded ready for stain , what you see , is what you got. Just treat the natural wood color from bugs , as interesting figure. Best way to insure not having termite stains , is don't buy that stock blank.
 
Spalted Maple is a thing of beauty.

Embrace it.


After it's oiled and aged it won't stick out like a sore thumb.

A 14 year old table top.
I’m considering a new rifle. There are three in the catalog with these in various locations. And a big discount. I kinda like the somewhat uniqueness.
 
I restocked a model 37 pump gun many years ago with a very nice piece of maple that had one worm hole just behind the tang that looked just like yours. I left it as is and also left the maple in its natural color. Yes it did stand out but I thought it looked OK being natural to the wood. Your mileage may vary :dunno::rolleyes:
 
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