How long before waxing a stock ?

[Rifleman1776]

I have used various waxes on various guns over the decades. Never an objectionable outcome. Wax protects the wood. I recommend using.

 

[kyron4]

Type "F" is essentially a liquid wax, or at least works as such. It's paraffin based. I do not use it in any bore but do use it on metal and wood. I've used it for decades and it seems to protect the stock better than paste wax. I do use paste wax at least once a year on guns and Type F after every cleaning.

Good to know, sounds like it would be great to protect metal parts, since if would leave a protective film on the metal. I know ATF is one of the best penetrating oils out there, good for rusted seized up nuts and bolts.

 

[kyron4]

I have used various waxes on various guns over the decades. Never an objectionable outcome. Was protects the wood. I recommend using.

I have too, espeacially on a hunting rifle being used in the rain and snow.

 

[DuncNZ]

Type "F" is essentially a liquid wax, or at least works as such. It's paraffin based. I do not use it in any bore but do use it on metal and wood. I've used it for decades and it seems to protect the stock better than paste wax. I do use paste wax at least once a year on guns and Type F after every cleaning.

Is the older , pre 70's version of this the one made from Whale oil ?

 

[hanshi]

Is the older , pre 70's version of this the one made from Whale oil ?

That's a question I still puzzle over. I do know "F" is a paraffin fluid; but other than that I know little of the history.

 

[hanshi]

Good to know, sounds like it would be great to protect metal parts, since if would leave a protective film on the metal. I know ATF is one of the best penetrating oils out there, good for rusted seized up nuts and bolts.

Type "F" is a very different fluid from other ATF. I don't know much about the particulars except that "F" is paraffin based and doesn't damage stock wood. I wipe the surface using a cloth dampened with it. After a few minutes I buff it off with a soft, dry cloth. It doesn't affect the color, hardness or the finish on the stock but does give a "polished" luster. This is a subjective observation but it seems to me that it "hardens" the surface of the stock a tad. I use it on all the metal parts but keep it out of the bore. Like other waxes it does leave a microscopic layer which may not hurt accuracy but still isn't needed IMHO. On metal it is a superb barrier to corrosion.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

I've tried wax and I don't like it. It makes the stock too slick to handle with gloves on. Maybe different waxes might be different. With a well cured finish I don't see the need for it anyway.
I've rubbed right through a poly finish with rotten stone or pumice when I thought it was fully cured but wasn't. Some of the stock rubbing compounds I've used say on the bottle "for use on fully cured finishes" or something like that. They aren't fooling either. I won't try to rub out a finish for at least a month and two is better. I very seldom rub out a stock anymore anyway. That sort of gets done when I add rottenstone or pumice to the finish to rub into the pores as a filler. The rotten stone or pumice works well as a pore filler on walnut. If you try it you need to add some bone black to it to darken it otherwise it will be grey in the pores.

 

[david w]

I treat my stocks with lemon oil and beeswax twice a year. The oil cleans the wood, and the beeswax protects.

Lemon Oil Beeswax Furniture Polish

 

[DuncNZ]

I treat my stocks with lemon oil and beeswax twice a year. The oil cleans the wood, and the beeswax protects.

Lemon Oil Beeswax Furniture Polish

And they smell so nice

 

[Vaino]

I have never applied wax of any kind to a gunstock......a quality, properly applied finish shouldn't require wax. Besides, all my builds have a very low sheen.......Fred