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Getting back to my rifle...

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pipascus

40 Cal.
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Messages
274
Reaction score
149
Location
White Mountains, Arizona
Bought the kit (Mark Silver Rifle) from Jim Chambers back in 2006. Mark Baker talked me through several choices and that was the one he thought I'd like, so I drove over to the Jim Chambers place to check them out. I actually got to see and hold some antiques in his collection. His daughter milled the location for the sights right there after, by chance, Mr. Rice from Rice barrels showed up with a few barrels. I had ordered a 62 cal but all he had were 58s, so that's what I took.

I worked a little on the rifle and then life got in the way, so it sat in a box from around 2007 to 2020 when I opened the box back up. It is my first build ever and I'm really wanting to finish it and SHOOT it!!! Then I can get a Fusil de Chasse and start all over!

Recently built a bench to keep working on it (I'll post pictures eventually) and want to get back to it. Drilling and tapping the hole for the touch-hole liner is what's scaring me, and I want to be sure I fit the barrel correctly. Will probably do the lipstick check thing for the barrel fit. Also, the trigger doesn't feel right, so I will have to look into that. Finally, there's some areas with surface rust from all the years in a box I guess, so I'll be oiling it to stop that. I scraped it with a plastic thing and it comes right off.
I'm still in the process of setting things up, but want to get as much info etc. lined up.

Here are some photos. Any advice, suggestions, or comments, are appreciated.
 

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It’s often hard to judge from pictures because of lighting. There’s a lot to like there. One thing I might see is that the edges of the lock moldings do not stand out much, as though a bit rounded in transition from lock side to tang side.
How are you going to shape the fore end transition to the nosecap?
 
It’s often hard to judge from pictures because of lighting. There’s a lot to like there. One thing I might see is that the edges of the lock moldings do not stand out much, as though a bit rounded in transition from lock side to tang side.
How are you going to shape the fore end transition to the nosecap?

You mean the wood edge doesn't stand out? Is there a remedy for that? Take it down some more?
As far as the transition to the nosecap, I will look at some pictures and see what I do. Feel free to offer advice, and thank you!
 
Keep in mind (though they do not make this explicitly clear) that most kits have some extra wood everywhere to allow for customization. If kits are finished without removing the excess wood they look crude and clunky.
 
Like Rich said in so many words..... put that fat girl on a diet.
way to soon for carving. You should be ready for finish BEFORE any carving is done.
Forestock, wrist, butt, nose cap, barrel channel, etc.
You’ll lose Mose of the carving in the process, but have a slimmer, more graceful gun in the process.
 
. Drilling and tapping the hole for the touch-hole liner is what's scaring me,

Here are some photos., or comments, are appreciated.
That is the start of a fine rifle! Don't let the TH liner scare you! When the barrel and lock are both in correct finish position and you have determined the exact location of breech plug end, you can center punch for a pilot hole. The TH needs to be drilled with a drill press and any barrel taper compensated for for correct drilling perpendicular to the side flat. Make sure you drill a pilot hole and then work up to thread desired size!
Rich mentioned wood transition at the nose cap, but to add to that...........Obviously the nose cap is not where it needs to be, with the end brass not fitting against the barrel.
We also want finished photos with range report!
 
That is the start of a fine rifle! Don't let the TH liner scare you! When the barrel and lock are both in correct finish position and you have determined the exact location of breech plug end, you can center punch for a pilot hole. The TH needs to be drilled with a drill press and any barrel taper compensated for for correct drilling perpendicular to the side flat. Make sure you drill a pilot hole and then work up to thread desired size!
Rich mentioned wood transition at the nose cap, but to add to that...........Obviously the nose cap is not where it needs to be, with the end brass not fitting against the barrel.
We also want finished photos with range report!

I have access to a drill press so that should be ok.
But as y’all have said, I have a ways to go.
What’s frustrating the beebeebanjangees out of me is having to still wait to get back on it!
I have the bench built but still need to organize some stuff to get on it.

I will be getting some reference pics online for my type of rifle so I can make some better decisions.
Need to determine how much more wood to take off. A little worried I’ll take too much and ruin it!
 

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