Frame for a 1860 Army

[USMA65]

Several years ago I was given a 1860 Army Kit. The gun has never been finished, mainly due to a lack of interest on my part. Now I am interested, but noticed the gun has a brass frame. So, my question is about the availability of steel frames to replace the brass one. Is there a source?

 

[phoenix511]

You might try: http://www.vtigunparts.com/store/shopcontent.asp?type=home

They stock a number of parts for replica BP revolvers, although a quick scan didn't show any frames.

Consider finishing the brass frame version, have some fun shooting light loads (like 15 - 20 grs in your 44) Brass frames are OK if you use light loads, but they are not historically correct, except for a few Confederate versions.

Looks like you have an almost free means of getting into BP revolver shooting, so give it a try with the brass frame.

 

[zb17ghost]

Henry Krank offers the frame: http://www.henrykrank.com/1860_army_spare_parts.html

but, I will try the brass one for the beginning

 

[bob308]

there is alot of talk of shooting a brass frame lose. i have never done it or seen it done even with full loads. in fact i even offered to buy a bras frame gun and shoot it till it did come lose. all i wanted was for them to pay for the powder. i had no takers.

now i have seen loading leavers broken and cylander arbores pulled out from people using wheel weights to make their ball from rather then pure lead.

 

[USMA65]

Sounds like the smart thing to do is build what I have and shoot it. I got to thinking last night that the screw holes of the steel frame not be the same as the brass, just adding to the problems of obtaining a shooter.

 

[Don]

I regularly shoot 25 grains of Pyrodex P in my .44 brass framed Colts and haven't had any visable damage to them yet. I do have a .36 cal brass colt that I do load down a bit because of some minor scoring to the recoil sheild from using 20 grains of Pyro P. A cap and ball loaded too far down is useless for anything more than plinking.

Don

 

Make sure you do NOT use 777 in any brass framed percussion revolver. It is a sure road to ruination of your BP revolver.

CP

 

[bdhutier]

Make sure you do NOT use 777 in any brass framed percussion revolver. It is a sure road to ruination of your BP revolver.

CP

I think 777 would be fine if you compensated for the quicker burn. Eg., instead of 20gn of BP, maybe 17-18gn of 777.

 

[Leatherbark]

I shot a brass frame 1860 for 10 years with 25 gr. of black or pyro P and it was still as tight as ever when I gave it to a friend.

Funny thing about it is the pistol had no markings whatsoever on it straight from Gander Mtn back in "87" for $69.95. The box was marked "Armsport" but no evidence of any Italian proof marks or date marks.

Shoot it as it is,

Bob

 

[freekforge]

I wouldn't worry about it i shot my '58 with 30-35gr. loads with no damage to the frame (I'm not saying you should do it). if you don't like the looks of it they make stuff to turn brass black.

 

[Gatofeo]

Hodgdon does not recommend 777 in any brass-framed revolver. It makes 777, so it should know. Do NOT use 777 in any brass-framed revolver.
Hodgdon has the ballistics lab, and trained ballisticians, to measure pressures.
Almost certainly, those who doubt Hodgdon's advice do not have access to such equipment and knowledge. At most, they're guessing it's okay because their gun hasn't blown up or been damaged ... yet.
Been shooting cap and ball revolvers for 40+ years, and reloading ammo longer. When the powder manufacturer says, "Don't do dat" ... I listen.