• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

First(feeble) Attempt from parts assembly...

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I would like to thank everyone for the kind comments. You have given me the encouragement to try another build. Mebbe I will be able to take more wood off, as this was hard for me as I had never worked with wood before, being a auto mechanic/shop foreman for most of my adult life. There is not much wood on a car now a days. :haha: I was thinking mebbe a Late Lancaster .45 cal. :hmm:

PS. I am disappoint that Mike didn't pop in here and say "Nice Wood" :rotf:
 
...You have given me the encouragement to try another build.

BaHaHaHaHa!
Another one snagged and doomed to a life of making wood and metal chips all over his floor! :rotf:

On your next one thin the flats of the lock panals down leaving about 1/8" around the bottom and top of the lock. Then make the opposite sideplate flat the same size. :)
 
likin' your work for #1. inletting looks good.

as always, Zonie speaks wisely.
Lord knows I've struggled with lock panels.
If you can't get your hands on some originals, gather up some pics, including from contemporary masters, and gaze intently at the lock panels and surrounding wrist and forearm areas.
I had to burn that flow image into my noggin.
Think about what it means to shape them with a 12" rasp, as opposed to carve them out with a small carving tool. (c.f. Mike B.'s tutorial). Larger radius, more flow, less abruptness. Molding/accent lines are cut in after panels are formed.
As Zonie noted, look at narrowness, especially at top rear, behind the cock.
You're on your way ! Keep us posted.
/mike
JimKiblerLockPanel.jpg

AllenMartinLockPanel.jpg

MikeGahaganLancasterLockPanel.jpg
 
don't listen to them wrong handed boys about witch side the lock is on, otherwise like one of the boys said if it pains you too much I'll take it off your hands :thumbsup:
 
Beautiful Gun!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

I hope to build my first kit rifle next year. If it comes out looking half that good, i'll be happy!
 
THis Mike will, nice wood!! And I have my mom's knitting needles I'll trade ya straight across for it!!
 
:rotf: :rotf: Thanks Mike...I would send it to you but the ugly thing has some of my sweat and blood in it. :grin: And looks aside :barf: this is the first rifle I ever owned that actually fits my lanky 6' 4" frame, 15 1/2" trigger pull. Hope to get to the range with it this week, will post a range report when I do.
 
Back
Top