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Cleaning new Brown Bess

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Winters

32 Cal
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Dec 26, 2020
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Hey all,

I just got a new Pedersoli Brown Bess for Christmas. I just took it to the range and expended 8 rounds- was not disappointed!

What do I need to do to clean the gun inside and out? Are there certain patches I need for the barrel, how do I clean the priming pan, etc. I don't want to damage the musket, so I thought this would be the best place to ask! Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
 
The fouling left from firing black powder will absorb water out of the air and form acids that will attack the metal parts. This is why it is important to clean all of the fouling off as soon as possible. If you can't clean the gun rapidly, coat the fouling with some oil. The oil won't reduce the need to clean the gun as soon as possible but it will protect the steel parts from rust.

There are dozens of posts about cleaning a black powder muzzleloader on the forum.
That said, plain water with a bit of dish soap in it is all you really need to do the cleaning. It will instantly dissolve the fouling and wash it away.
Wipe on, wipe off, dry.

You should apply a good gun oil to all of the exposed metal parts including the bore.

Any clean material can be used for cleaning patches.

I'm moving this thread to the Smoothbore section because the Bess is first and foremost, a smoothbore. :)
 
Get yourself a cheap plastic pitcher and fill it up with some tap water and a pinch of dish soap.
Remove the two lock bolts and gently wiggle the lock out.
Scrub the grime off the inside of the lock, the pan, and the frizzen with water from your pitcher and a toothbrush.
Set the lock aside.
Plug the touch hole with something. A toothpick may work (a bit too small for my Bess), or a feather quill or similar.
Throw a funnel (not necessary but a huge help) in the muzzle and fill the barrel up with water and let it sit for a couple minutes.
Pour water out, then repeat until water comes out clean, then remove your toothpick, quill, whatever.
Run a few wet (water) patches down the bore until they look pretty clean.
Run a few dry patches down until they come out with no sign of water on them.
Run a final oiled/lubed patch down.
Wipe away any fowling on the outside of the gun in the breech/lock area with an old oily rag.
Take your now dry lock and run a clean toothbrush with just a drop of oil on the bristles around inside parts of the lock, then wipe off the excess as best you can.
Wiggle the lock back into place and replace the lock bolts.
Take your oily rag and wipe the gun down.

If you want to use the ramrod you need to get an adapter like this: Adaptors, for other thread sizes - Track of the Wolf (7th one down in the list, goes from M5-.8 female to 10-32 female). With it you can use the standard 10-32 patch jags. I use a .69 caliber jag in my Pedersoli Bess, as the .75 caliber one is too tight in its .745" bore with anything but the thinnest patches. Your Bess may work fine with a .75 jag, as the bores vary. Modern shotgun cleaning patches work fine, but you can also cut patches to about the same size from t-shirts, pillow cases, etc. For oil, I have specifically used mineral oil, Ballistol, and olive oil. They all seem to work fine.

Oh, and huge conga rats on the new Bess. I absolutely LOVE mine.

iu
 
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Thank you for the replies!

Will water damage the rifle at all? I don't have any patches I can put down the barrel right now, so putting water down is the only way I can clean it. Will it be fine to dry on its own, or will it corrode it? Also, when you say an oily rag, what kind of oil do you use? Just any gun oil? Thank you!
 
Hmm this is where confusion can set in and mistakes.
I just sold my Bess but after several years had no issues with corrosion.
I did;
Use an olive oil and beeswax during shooting, after cleaning, inside and out.
At home I rod the fould bore with a damp patch or two. Plug the vent and add an absorbent cloth held in place by the frizzen.
Tip hot water, near boiling water in the barrel and tip it back out. Repeat.
Rod some more.
Tip more hot water in and out until the breach is to hot to touch.

It's not so much acid that causes issue but salts. Salts cause corrosion and the above method dissolves the salts. Any remaining black to show on a patch now is just carbon.
YOU MUST NOT USE MINERAL BASED OIL LIKE THE ONES TODAY SOLD AS GUN OIL!
They do not absorb salts!
Rod the hot barrel to soak the water up.
The heat will dry the rest.
Remove vent plug.
Wipe lock and external breach with a damp cloth.
The heat will dry it for you. When left for a few minutes rod the warm barrel with a greased patch of beeswax olive oil mix.
Add the same externally but not the frizzen face.
Put away and forget.
 
So I do have little black dots on the barrel next to the frizzen. Is this carbon/ how do I get it off?
 
You can cut you own patches from an old T shirt.

You can probably clean rifle without patches but it would be a lot more work and I would not feel very confident without running patches down the bore.
 
Sorry if this is a silly question... but if I put a patch down the barrel, I'm afraid it wont come out. if I put a patch down with the ramrod, will it get stuck?

Also, unfortunately, wire wool isn't getting the black dots off. Is there no way to avoid patina?
 
The cleaning jag has a shape that allows it to grip the patch well when pulling it out. I think everyone thought that at some point but when you try it the first time you realize it is not a big deal.

They make patch pullers that screw on the ramrod that can grab a patch if it comes loose. I think that should be a rare event though.
 
Also, when you say an oily rag, what kind of oil do you use? Just any gun oil? Thank you!

The one I'm currently using mostly has Ballistol and olive oil in it, just from using those oils. You should be fine with any oil. We're not talking an oil soaked rag, just one that has some oil that's collected in it over time.

If you don't have a proper jag or adapter for your ramrod I'd be hesitant to try anything more than using the near boiling water Britsmoothy mentioned, as the gun will dry quickly after it's dumped out. You need to pick up a jag and adapter (or a jag and a muzzleloader cleaning rod) and some patches asap for proper cleaning. In the meantime, If you can run out and pick up a couple of cheap aluminum shotgun cleaning rods and a 12 gauge bore mop, you can fit an extra section from one rod into the other and make one long enough to fit the Bess's barrel, then use the mop with a bit of oil on it to help protect the bore from rust, though this isn't ideal.

Here's my jag (.69 cal) and adapter from Track of the Wolf (separate and mounted to the ramrod:
 

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Okay, I will order the jag and adapter from Track of the Wolf.

Just to be clear- putting hot water down the barrel will not cause my gun to rust, right? I'm just triple checking as I do not want to damage it. I've always heard putting water on guns is a no go.

Also, if I am unable to properly clean the bore for a few days until the supplies arrive, am I in trouble or should I be alright?
 
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What is the humidity like where you're at? It's very dry where I'm at nearly all year, so I've never had to worry about it, but I've heard that black powder fowling can start causing trouble in fairly short order in a humid environment.
 
It's not that humid (Midwest) with few showers here and there. I will do the water trick until my jag/etc arrives. Thank you everybody for all the help! I think I've discovered my new hobby.
 
I’ve been shooting Besses personally and professionally since 1990. Boiling (or nearly) water is all I use. It works great, and it will hear the barrel up enough to dry itself.
On that head, I do recommend a glove or rag to hold the barrel- it gets right uncomfortable.
Jay

If he's not able to oil or lube the bore for several days or a week after flushing it would there be a problem with that? That's what I don't know.
 
If he's not able to oil or lube the bore for several days or a week after flushing it would there be a problem with that? That's what I don't know.

MAYBE he has access to some .30 cal. or even M16 cleaning rod sections he can screw enough together to get a long enough length to go all the way down the bore with a Patch Tip? Even the smaller M16 patch tip will hold a larger oiled patch to work up and down to thoroughly coat the bore.

My favorite thing to clean my Bess is I purchased two used sets of aluminum shotgun cleaning rod sets from yard sales/flea markets. I added one or two other rods from the second set to get the long enough length. A 12 gauge brush is a bit small, but works ok to scrub the bore prior to using the hot water. The patch tip is large enough to hold a good size patch to oil and wipe the bore dry.

Gus
 
Hahaha. I was actually thinking of suggesting folding a few layers of t-shirt or whatever down over the button end of the ramrod and zip tying them on to ensure they wouldn't come off in the bore. I tried it on my own Bess, but I didn't have a small enough zip tie, so the little clamp part of the tie stuck out too far to allow the rod to go down the bore. With a small enough tie it could work, I believe.
:dunno:
 
Hahaha. I was actually thinking of suggesting folding a few layers of t-shirt or whatever down over the button end of the ramrod and zip tying them on to ensure they wouldn't come off in the bore. I tried it on my own Bess, but I didn't have a small enough zip tie, so the little clamp part of the tie stuck out too far to allow the rod to go down the bore. With a small enough tie it could work, I believe.
:dunno:
With something unimportant you can cut a groove or cut the end to form a slit lengthwise. A piece of string can be used to tie a cloth patch to the end.

If you have no mop but can warm the gun near a stove don't clean it until you can properly.
 

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