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Building flintlock
- Thread starter Xtramad
- Start date
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Rocky Johnson
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2003
- Messages
- 658
- Reaction score
- 1
WOW Look out Jim Chambers.Fascinating"" Rocky
It is losely based on the Norwegian model 1748 musket. I have a converted flintlock from the same period
from which I will be using some ideas, so it will basically be a merging of these to designs.
The original below shows clear German and French influences.
from which I will be using some ideas, so it will basically be a merging of these to designs.
The original below shows clear German and French influences.
Thanks for the pics of the gun,it is similar to some other European guns of that era I have seen pics of, the placement of the rear sight several inches back from the muzzle is also found on many French guns. I have wondered what the reason for this was, if there was a reason as such, this is on guns which were not made for a bayonet. anyway keep us posted on the project, and my hats off to your skills.
I'm planning on using the original 86 calibre barrel because of an idiot law in Norway that says
I can't make guns unless I'm a gunsmith. This will then technically be a restauration of a vintage gun.
The barrel on this musket has a strange teardrop cross section that I've never seen before and it has
some beutiful metalwork that I intend to copy, like the serpent style sideplate and the gracefully
shaped trigger guard.
I can't make guns unless I'm a gunsmith. This will then technically be a restauration of a vintage gun.
The barrel on this musket has a strange teardrop cross section that I've never seen before and it has
some beutiful metalwork that I intend to copy, like the serpent style sideplate and the gracefully
shaped trigger guard.
The barrel I'm using is an original mid 1700's barrel.
I don't know if anyone makes barrels in that big a calibre today, but you could make your own.
You'd need a big metal lathe to taper the barrel or you could do it by hand with a file like they did in the old days.
www.steelsupply.com
www.metalsdepot.com
Links to tubing suppliers
I don't know if anyone makes barrels in that big a calibre today, but you could make your own.
You'd need a big metal lathe to taper the barrel or you could do it by hand with a file like they did in the old days.
www.steelsupply.com
www.metalsdepot.com
Links to tubing suppliers
quote:Originally posted by tg:
I have not heard of that type of cross section but the barrel making method of the time( folding over onto itself and having a seam length wise then filing down)could certainly lend itself to that shape. Sounds like a reasonable explanation of the barrel shape. I bought W.W.Greeners book "The Gun and its Development" from 1910, he states that many places barrelmakers actually made barrels from scrap metal, particulary horseshoe nails by welding them together in strips, making six inch sections that were then welded together to the required length end to end. Welding in those days meant hammer and anvil, quite impressive.
Well I've made the frizzen spring now. I'll be unable to do much work in the next few weeks as I dislocated my shoulder in the shower (most accidents happen in the home, they say).
I have not heard of that type of cross section but the barrel making method of the time( folding over onto itself and having a seam length wise then filing down)could certainly lend itself to that shape. Sounds like a reasonable explanation of the barrel shape. I bought W.W.Greeners book "The Gun and its Development" from 1910, he states that many places barrelmakers actually made barrels from scrap metal, particulary horseshoe nails by welding them together in strips, making six inch sections that were then welded together to the required length end to end. Welding in those days meant hammer and anvil, quite impressive.
Well I've made the frizzen spring now. I'll be unable to do much work in the next few weeks as I dislocated my shoulder in the shower (most accidents happen in the home, they say).
Well, I'm back in business after that damn shoulder incident. I'm working on finishing the external parts
before starting on the internals of the mechanism.
By the way, I saw the discussion on adjusting the frizzen and thought that since a flinter will spark even
without the frizzen spring, a heavy frizzen will give more resistance and better sparking than a light one.
Any thoughts on that theory anyone?
I'm thinking of trimming down the weight of the frizzen, but I'm not sure this would be a good thing.
What is a good opening on the jaws of the cock if I'm planning on using 3/4" flints?
I'm trying to place the notch where the top jaw rests against the cock and need a messurement.
before starting on the internals of the mechanism.
By the way, I saw the discussion on adjusting the frizzen and thought that since a flinter will spark even
without the frizzen spring, a heavy frizzen will give more resistance and better sparking than a light one.
Any thoughts on that theory anyone?
I'm thinking of trimming down the weight of the frizzen, but I'm not sure this would be a good thing.
What is a good opening on the jaws of the cock if I'm planning on using 3/4" flints?
I'm trying to place the notch where the top jaw rests against the cock and need a messurement.
Chuck Deaton
36 Cal.
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2003
- Messages
- 92
- Reaction score
- 1
Just today I put a cut agate flint into my new lock and adjusted it. Since flints vary in thickness and it seems that cut agate flints are on the skinny side I had a minor problem with getting the flint secured. Finally I cut a couple of pieces of rubber like plastic as spacers and torqued the clamp down.
My opinion is that the clamp should close down to about 3/16" to allow for the flint and a leather/rubber/lead wrap.
My opinion is that the clamp should close down to about 3/16" to allow for the flint and a leather/rubber/lead wrap.
quote:Originally posted by Xtramad:
a heavy frizzen will give more resistance and better sparking than a light one.
Any thoughts on that theory anyone?This is true, the heavy frizzen has more mass than the lighter one, and thus, more resistance.
So, (IMHO) the heavier the frizzen, the lighter the frizzen spring resistance will be needed to achieve optimum sparking capabilities, lighter frizzens will require a more stout spring.
Newton's 1st law of motion applys here:
Every object in a state of uniform motion tends to remain in that state of motion unless an external force is applied to it.
And Newton's 3rd. law of motion too:
For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. ...
That means that the frizzen will open with the same force as the hammer dropping unless there is an outside force acting against it. (the frizzen spring) This is where the resistance starts, as does the mass of the frizzen being equal to, or greater than the mass of the hammer.
Heavy frizzens and stout frizzen springs will cause excesseve flint wear...
I think you need some kind of resistance, otherwise the flint will just knock the frizzen out of the way on it's way down, without scraping the length of the frizzen's striking surface, resulting in little or no sparks...
Of course, the thing will spark without a frizzen spring at all, so that blows this theroy out of the water...
a heavy frizzen will give more resistance and better sparking than a light one.
Any thoughts on that theory anyone?This is true, the heavy frizzen has more mass than the lighter one, and thus, more resistance.
So, (IMHO) the heavier the frizzen, the lighter the frizzen spring resistance will be needed to achieve optimum sparking capabilities, lighter frizzens will require a more stout spring.
Newton's 1st law of motion applys here:
Every object in a state of uniform motion tends to remain in that state of motion unless an external force is applied to it.
And Newton's 3rd. law of motion too:
For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. ...
That means that the frizzen will open with the same force as the hammer dropping unless there is an outside force acting against it. (the frizzen spring) This is where the resistance starts, as does the mass of the frizzen being equal to, or greater than the mass of the hammer.
Heavy frizzens and stout frizzen springs will cause excesseve flint wear...
I think you need some kind of resistance, otherwise the flint will just knock the frizzen out of the way on it's way down, without scraping the length of the frizzen's striking surface, resulting in little or no sparks...
Of course, the thing will spark without a frizzen spring at all, so that blows this theroy out of the water...
Curry Mosher
32 Cal.
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2003
- Messages
- 27
- Reaction score
- 0
Hello, Xtramad! Great project! Keep the pictures coming!
You asked about the relationship of the frizzen spring and frizzen weight. I have a few thoughts you might find interesting.
First off, I am a "shade tree gunsmith" specializing in repairing reproduction flintlocks for hunters here in Pennsylvania.
I have found that the heavier the frizzen spring, (sometimes the mainspring is the culprit, but not often) the more flints will be broken. Frizzen weight doesn't seem to be as much of a factor.
The frizzen spring needs to be stiff enough to hold the fizzen closed, but light enough to allow it to open easily.
In "tuning" a lock, I try to get the frizzen spring and mainspring "balanced". That is, not working against each other.
If one or the other is too heavy, you'll break flints or have other troubles.
I lighten springs by grinding (carefully) on the outside edge, lengthwise of the spring. This makes the spring less wide, thus "lighter". There is even a bevel cast into most of the modern springs (they are made by a lost wax process) that I use as a guide as to where and what angle to grind.
Do not overheat the spring. I keep a dish of cold water handy to dunk it in when I feel the spring getting too hot to hold in my bare hands.
You asked about the relationship of the frizzen spring and frizzen weight. I have a few thoughts you might find interesting.
First off, I am a "shade tree gunsmith" specializing in repairing reproduction flintlocks for hunters here in Pennsylvania.
I have found that the heavier the frizzen spring, (sometimes the mainspring is the culprit, but not often) the more flints will be broken. Frizzen weight doesn't seem to be as much of a factor.
The frizzen spring needs to be stiff enough to hold the fizzen closed, but light enough to allow it to open easily.
In "tuning" a lock, I try to get the frizzen spring and mainspring "balanced". That is, not working against each other.
If one or the other is too heavy, you'll break flints or have other troubles.
I lighten springs by grinding (carefully) on the outside edge, lengthwise of the spring. This makes the spring less wide, thus "lighter". There is even a bevel cast into most of the modern springs (they are made by a lost wax process) that I use as a guide as to where and what angle to grind.
Do not overheat the spring. I keep a dish of cold water handy to dunk it in when I feel the spring getting too hot to hold in my bare hands.
Thanks for all the help and advice, this is really a great forum.
I can hardly wait to assemble the lock so I can test it.
I guess I'm gonna be spending some time finetuning it.
Well, I got the fence welded on to the pan, so that's almost finished.
The final shaping of the frizzen is next on my list.
I cleaned and polished the bore of the barrel I'm using yesterday, about
a tablespoon of rust came out of it but there were only a few places
where the rust had begun to eat away at the metal. Not bad for a 250
year old barrel that hasn't been used or cleaned for at least 100 years.
I can hardly wait to assemble the lock so I can test it.
I guess I'm gonna be spending some time finetuning it.
Well, I got the fence welded on to the pan, so that's almost finished.
The final shaping of the frizzen is next on my list.
I cleaned and polished the bore of the barrel I'm using yesterday, about
a tablespoon of rust came out of it but there were only a few places
where the rust had begun to eat away at the metal. Not bad for a 250
year old barrel that hasn't been used or cleaned for at least 100 years.
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