Building a Hawkin style half stock

[32 ballard xl]

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Thanks Phil! It does seem to be quite challenging. The TC kit, while far from an original Hawken anyway, had the breech and tang fitted quite well, so that challenge was eliminated. The stock inlets were also precise, so fitting the tang, etc. was pretty much a simple drop-in as I recall. It's been a few years, but the build was not at all challenging as far as I can remember. It was more of a matter of finishing wood and metal. Even the brass castings were already polished.

I know the "kits" from Track, Stith, etc. are more of a parts collection than a kit like the ones TC sold or even the Kibler offerings, which are true kits in my estimation. At this point, I'm just dreaming anyway. Between the expense of finishing the basement of our new-to-us home and the unexpected need to replace the power steering lines on my old F150 to the tune of $700, I'm going to have to be satisfied withtinkering on the guns I already have for some time.

Thanks again for your excellent reply. I'm sure I'm not the only one who was curious, so others will surely benefit from your answers.

Wow! $700 to replace two short hydraulic hoses? OUCH!!

 

[30coupe]

\\\\\\\\\\\Wow! $700 to replace two short hydraulic hoses? OUCH!!

No, not just the hoses. It was the entire lines. There are several sections of hose connecting metal lines. They have clamps on one end and are permanently attached at the other, so just replacing the hoses is not an option...thanks Ford.
It also required a system flush ($135) to get the chunks of hose out of the pump and cooler. I was hesitant about that at first, but the pump is much quieter now than when I limped it to the dealer and the tech said he got a lot of junk out with the flush. The hose blew off at the top of the radiator when I started the truck at Menards (30 miles from home), so I had NO steering since the rack and pinion is hydraulic. I managed to re-attach the hose, add some fluid and limp it two miles to the nearest Ford dealer. I consider myself lucky that this didn't happen on the highway. Anyway, it cost me $697 with tax. OUCH indeed!

 

[Zonie]

Lets get back to gun building please.

 

[30coupe]

 

[Scota4570]

Stith's parts sets are not a kit. Read his disclaimer. If you have extensive experience and serious skills you might be able to make a replica out of what he provides. It is unlikely on the first try though. I was not able to, I have lots of experience and skills.

The stock was not usable. The nose cap sent did not fit the barrel, he did replace it but first suggested squashing it to fit the barrel. The tang rough inlet was too deep. I tried to make it work in doing so I ruined the lock. I had to buy a new lock. I did not like how the breech plug was drilled so I bought a new rough casting and did it how I wanted it. That was more subjective, but I considered it a safety and reliability issue.

As for the stock, I bought a square uncut blank, With that wood I made a very nice Hawken replica. IF I was to do another I would build totally from scratch, sourcing my own parts. Failing that I would try the Hawken shop in Washington state; I have no experience with them and can not vouch.

I guess it depends on one's expectations. I expect the material provided can produce a perfect rifle. Anything less should be my mistakes.

IF Jim Kibler ever produces a Hawken kit I will be the first to buy one. For now nobody I am aware of makes a true kit that can be assembled in a trouble free way. Hawkens are much more complicate that they seem at first glance. The tang and lock area require working in three dimension at the same time. IT is not easy or intuitive.

To be fair Stith does not cut the stocks. There is a common problem with all "kits". The rough stocks are often cut badly and require extensive head scratching on how to make them work. Compromises will likely need to be made. I find it faster and easier to work from a plank for that reason.

Don is the foremost expert in the field of Hawken rifles. He is happy to give advice and help.

 

[crankshaft]

on a blank, the bbl channel isn't so difficult to cut.
The RR channel is another issue.

I should buy a blank with that done.
but I have too many blanks and I need to use them up.

 

[crankshaft]

To be fair Stith does not cut the stocks. There is a common problem with all "kits". The rough stocks are often cut badly and require extensive head scratching on how to make them work. Compromises will likely need to be made. I find it faster and easier to work from a plank for that reason.

Don is the foremost expert in the field of Hawken rifles. He is happy to give advice and help.

I wish one could just buy the metal, but I believe you have to purchase his stock also.

 

[Scota4570]

You could call Stith and ask. He is a reasonable guy. I bet he would sell you whatever you want. He seem to have stuff on hand that others are sold out on.

Failing that, source your own metal. Kit makers typically do not make anything. They assemble package deals of parts then sell them as a kit.

 

[Hokóóxuuniicíí_Greg]

"Herb Troester has pointed out a problem with the current "Bridger" breech plug from Track of the Wolf. Ron Long originally designed this plug and made the molds around 1974. That mold must have worn out because the present tang castings are different. The tang comes off of the standing breech at an upward angle and needs to be bent down to avoid having a hump behind the breech. Then the tang must be straightened some to properly fit the wrist profile of the stock. The junction where the tang joins the standing breech has to be heated bright hot to do this. Herb says he has broken two tangs because he didn't get them hot enough."

I was wondering about this! I am on my third TOTW Bridger Hooked Breech, and this one wasn't even close to mating up, I should've probably peened the hook down until the tang and breech faces met, before filing and fitting with Prussian Blue; I was able to get a fair fit by peening.

 

[Scota@4570]

Regarding the OP, consider a leman halfstock. I assemble one recently and like it very much. It would make a good hunting rifle. Hawkins with the huge tapered barrel are very heavy.

http://www.longrifles-pr.com/lemanhalf.shtml
This was a very easy build. The parts all get inleted in two dimensions with little head scratching. A real Hawken is very difficult to inlet, particularly the tang.

 

[Pete G]

I would take a well-built leman over a fake "hawkins" any day