Building a Hawkin style half stock

[Drago]

Well I am thinking of doing a build. With a couple of small details, I don't have a clue where to start. Any books to start with or instructions? I like the steel hardware, probably browned and curly maple stock. I would like recommendations on good quality parts, not necessarily the most expensive. I am thinking of a plain stock and plain metal parts, just a sturdy rifle.

 

[jdkerstetter]

Don Stith makes the best Hawken kits/parts.
http://www.donstith.com/

Hope you know what you are getting into though. A Hawken is a tough build, even for an experienced hand. If you are determined to attempt a Hawken, I would recommend that you do a flint full stock first. Getting a hooked breech, percussion one right is tricky.

Good Luck, J.D.

 

[54ball]

Don't rule out a Leman Indian trade rifle.
As JD said a Hawken is a challenging build. There are several books available on building rifles. I suggest you look though the posts here for info on them.
Hawkens were typically rust blued with a case hardened lock and butt plate when new. The blued parts aged to brown while the case parts age to gray-brown on 150+ year old rifle.
A Lyman GPR kit may be right up your alley. It is somewhat based on a "light Hawken". It would be an excellant starter kit, that you can finish any way you wish.

 

[Zonie]

If your serious about building a rifle with a curly maple stock the first thing you should do is to order yourself a Track of the Wolf Catalog.

This catalog not only shows you many of the parts that are available but it shows them with full size pictures. It also has a lot of useful information about building muzzleloaders.

Here's a link to their catalog
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/303/1/CATALOG-18

If your willing to settle for a good gun with a Walnut stock I'll agree with 54ball.
The Lyman Great Plains Rifle kit is an excellent choice at a moderate price.
They are available in percussion or flintlock and for a first build they have several good points.

You won't have to locate, drill and thread holes.

They have steel trigger guards and butt plates.

Because they are a kit you can modify the shape of the stock and/or add extras like a simple inlay.

All in all, they will make a very nice gun that you can be proud of.

 

[Bill Hall]

Hawkens are right up my ally, and yes, they are difficult to build. More mechanical and precise measurements than a solid breeched, pinned, fullstock, flintlock.

Like mentioned already, I recommend a simpler kit gun, or even a simple trade or plains rifle for your first build. No exacting lines to follow. However it turns out is still P/C. You can pin the barrel and use a solid breech, and use whatever stock shape you want.

But, if you have your heart set on a genuine Hawken, and want to use maple, I do recommend starting with plain maple, instead of a fancier grade. Curly maple is trickier to work with, along with the added difficulty of copying the Hawken features. And if you mess up a little, you aren't out much money. Plain maple is actually more correct for a Hawken.

I buy the bulk of my parts from Track of the Wolf, and make many myself. The wood comes from Dunlap Wood. Lately, I've been getting GM barrels from Muzzleloader Builders Supply, but call first, since that guy doesn't update his stock very often. And the girl who works there likes to flirt. :grin:

Good luck. Ask questions as you go. Bill

 

[Bill Hall]

Oh yeah, Hershal House's video "Building the Hawken Rifle" is a great tutorial. He doesn't give a lot of measurements and angles and such, but he teaches a lot of building technique. To really get that Hawken look, I suggest you find pics online and study the heck out of them. Blow up detailed pics and print them out. Track of the Wolf often has good examples of modern made Hawkens, with pics showing different views. And there are many examples of original Hawkens all over the web if you search hard enough. Visit Don Stith's site and study some of his pics. Also, you can contact our member Herb and have him send you some pics of original Hawkens he has from museums. I plan on visiting one of those museums he recommended very soon for my own research. Bill

 

[Drago]

Thanks everyone, this gives me a starting place and where to start looking.

 

[Drago]

has anyone used a

Pecatonica River Long Rifle Supply, Inc. kit?

 

[Vaino]

Pictured below is a Pecatonica Hawken and it went together very well. Below it is a Stith Hawken and it also went together nicely. The Stith is more HC than the Pecatonica but both "look" like a Hawken...Good Luck.....
Fred

 

[Drago]

Thanks, those look nice, what does HC mean?

 

[Vaino]

HC = historically correct. The Stith's buttplate is copied after an existing, original Hawken as ia the stock architecture. Also the Stith has a tapered bbl which is HC. Nothing wrong w/ the Pecatonica...just isn't as HC....Fred

 

[Drago]

Thanks for the info and definition. Any pointers on what to avoid?

 

[Drago]

One more question, on these rifle barrels, is there any stamped info or are they basically bare?

 

[jdkerstetter]

Barrels bought from manufacturers who produce them for gun builders usually only put their name/mark, the caliber, sometimes the rifling pitch and sometimes a code or two on them. It is usually on the bottom flat so as not to be seen once built into a gun.

There is no black powder only "warning" on the barrel as there is on production guns if that is what you are wondering.

Enjoy, J.D.

 

[jdkerstetter]

Thanks for the info and definition. Any pointers on what to avoid?

Avoid bargains. If a deal on a gun kit is too good somebody is cutting corners somewhere.

I think by the time you compair prices you will find that Don Stith's "kits" are only a little bit more than the other quality kit suppliers prices and they are actually less than Track of the Wolf's Hawken kits.

With Don's you will get the best HC parts and the appropriate tapered barrel though. You also get his phone number and he is very sharing with his knowledge if/when you run into problems.

Besides being correct tapered barrels offer a big advantage in weight and handling. Considering a Hawken big bore usually has a 1" or 1 1/8" barrel, that alone makes it worth a little extra cash.

Enjoy, J.D.

 

[Drago]

Thanks

 

[Drago]

Was wondering on lock and trigger recommendations

 

[jdkerstetter]

Depends on what you are going for.

Flint you would use an L&R Late English.

Percussion you would use an L&R or Davis Hawken Lock....either one is fine.

Custom you would try and get a Bob Roller lock but it would be more money and you would have a wait.

Triggers? Davis Hawken or Cain set triggers. Davis are fine, Cain's are better but, again, more money.

Enjoy, J.D.

 

[Bill Hall]

What jdkerstetter said, only I mostly use L&R Hawken triggers. I think of them as a kit, rather than a finished trigger assembly, as I do a lot of customizing and tweaking on them. And I prefer the straight front trigger. Bill

 

[jdkerstetter]

Right. Nothing wrong with the L&R Hawken triggers or the Ron Long's either. Don't know how I neglected that in my post....yes, I do, it's late!

The straight front trigger is more appropriate in most cases.

Enjoy, J.D.