Browned Barrel

[BlackRock52]

I have an opportunity to buy a browned barrel firearm -- 12 Ga -- I did some reading and seems like there were/are 2 methods to brown a barrel -- chemical and physical --and that browning preceded bluing. However, I can't shake the feeling that it's "just a rusty" barrel and I much prefer the dark blue/blue-black bluing look on a firearm. That said, should I just drop it and enjoy the historically correct browned barrel or change it? Can it be changed? Please advise...Thx

 

[Archer 756]

Browning or bluing is Rust

 

[Artificer]

I have an opportunity to buy a browned barrel firearm -- 12 Ga -- I did some reading and seems like there were/are 2 methods to brown a barrel -- chemical and physical --and that browning preceded bluing. However, I can't shake the feeling that it's "just a rusty" barrel and I much prefer the dark blue/blue-black bluing look on a firearm. That said, should I just drop it and enjoy the historically correct browned barrel or change it? Can it be changed? Please advise...Thx

Is it an original gun or a repro? Is it a double barrel?

Gus

 

[BlackRock52]

Browning or bluing is Rust

That was one of the ways to brown it...controlled rust

 

[BlackRock52]

Is it an original gun or a repro? Is it a double barrel?

Repro I think. He does not know brand/manufacture -- Double barrel - ? Getting info from friend who has a friend -- yada yada. He knows I am looking for a 12 Ga CVA Gobbler. This isn't that but he sent me info I have for consideration since I am having no luck with the NWTF Gobbler Edition When he said browned barrel of which I am not a fan, I started reading

 

[necchi]

Tough call @BlackRock52 as you ask about how you feel,,
You can rest assured that there are 100's of members here that can testify to the fact that a Browned barrel is just as protected as one that's Blued.
@Archer 756 is right, both methods are a process of rusting the surface and changing it to an iron oxide,

Fe3O4 is black oxide,
Fe2O3 is red oxide,
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluing_(steel)Red Oxide can be changed to Black Oxide by immersion in boiling water,, but the barrel/parts must be free of all oils or other surface protections such as waxes or even transferred oils from handling,(finger prints).
But that process just changes the shade of the oxide and isn't "shiney" like the true hot blue we see today.

I've come to prefer a Browned barrel, less glare and reflection,, and have removed the bluing and browned several myself.
(Keep in mind that "Cold Bluing" is just a surface coat/covering that can be easily worn off)

Good luck with your choice, if you want the shotgun, don't let barrel finish dis-way you.

 

[Artificer]

Artificer said:
Is it an original gun or a repro? Is it a double barrel?"

"Repro I think. He does not know brand/manufacture -- Double barrel - ? Getting info from friend who has a friend -- yada yada. He knows I am looking for a 12 Ga CVA Gobbler. This isn't that but he sent me info I have for consideration since I am having no luck with the NWTF Gobbler Edition When he said browned barrel of which I am not a fan, I started reading"

necchi gave some great info above to which I might add that IF you want a "smooth" looking blue, you might want to ensure they didn't bead blast or sand blast the parts before they browned them. Correcting that would be a huge problem for many home hobbyists. Even if they didn't bead blast/sand blast the metal prior to browning the barrel/barrels, chances are fairly good you will need to smooth the surface of the metal before you Rust Blue (using hot water in a tank) or other types of NON Modern Black Oxide "Bluing."

I would strongly suggest you at least find out who made the gun and check the condition, before you make plans for it and find out it isn't worth the effort.

Gus

 

[BlackRock52]

Artificer said:
Is it an original gun or a repro? Is it a double barrel?"

"Repro I think. He does not know brand/manufacture -- Double barrel - ? Getting info from friend who has a friend -- yada yada. He knows I am looking for a 12 Ga CVA Gobbler. This isn't that but he sent me info I have for consideration since I am having no luck with the NWTF Gobbler Edition When he said browned barrel of which I am not a fan, I started reading"

necchi gave some great info above to which I might add that IF you want a "smooth" looking blue, you might want to ensure they didn't bead blast or sand blast the parts before they browned them. Correcting that would be a huge problem for many home hobbyists. Even if they didn't bead blast/sand blast the metal prior to browning the barrel/barrels, chances are fairly good you will need to smooth the surface of the metal before you Rust Blue (using hot water in a tank) or other types of NON Modern Black Oxide "Bluing."

I would strongly suggest you at least find out who made the gun and check the condition, before you make plans for it and find out it isn't worth the effort.

Gus

Copy that...Thx

 

[BlackRock52]

Tough call @BlackRock52 as you ask about how you feel,,
You can rest assured that there are 100's of members here that can testify to the fact that a Browned barrel is just as protected as one that's Blued.
@Archer 756 is right, both methods are a process of rusting the surface and changing it to an iron oxide,

Fe3O4 is black oxide,
Fe2O3 is red oxide,
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluing_(steel)Red Oxide can be changed to Black Oxide by immersion in boiling water,, but the barrel/parts must be free of all oils or other surface protections such as waxes or even transferred oils from handling,(finger prints).
But that process just changes the shade of the oxide and isn't "shiney" like the true hot blue we see today.

I've come to prefer a Browned barrel, less glare and reflection,, and have removed the bluing and browned several myself.
(Keep in mind that "Cold Bluing" is just a surface coat/covering that can be easily worn off)

Good luck with your choice, if you want the shotgun, don't let barrel finish dis-way you.

Thx for the sage advice. I realize my color preference is just that -- a color preference -- reflected in other areas of my life. Car is black as is my truck. I have virtually nothing in brown save for 1 well worn favorite chair. That said, i have recently seen several Bronze(tan) cerakote rifles with the latest a friends Browning 7mm and I gotta admit they look pretty sharp and I definitely get the non-glare aspect. I need to see it in person and keep an open mind...Thx again

 

[ronaldrothb49]

In my experience sooner or later your going to get some rust on any barrel, if it is browned you simply oil it and your done. No more trying to patch up the blue. Then there is rust blue where you initially brown the barrel and then boil it in distilled water to change it to blue.

 

[Kansas Jake]

The right hand gun is a Navy Arms 1858 kit gun I built 40 years ago as a newbie. I rust blued it at that time. It has been used a lot.

 

[Red Owl]

I think both methods date back about to the same time. Either is okay but one benefit on a browned barrel is if you get any rust- you sort of just work it into the finish whereas if you blue the barrel and get a red rust spot- it shows up- if that makes sense.
I think barrels were mostly browned but on some rifles- the plains rifles- the smaller parts were often blued- probably easier to boil than the whole barrel.

 

[BlackRock52]

I think both methods date back about to the same time. Either is okay but one benefit on a browned barrel is if you get any rust- you sort of just work it into the finish whereas if you blue the barrel and get a red rust spot- it shows up- if that makes sense.
I think barrels were mostly browned but on some rifles- the plains rifles- the smaller parts were often blued- probably easier to boil than the whole barrel.

Makes sense

 

[BlackRock52]

View attachment 134166
The right hand gun is a Navy Arms 1858 kit gun I built 40 years ago as a newbie. I rust blued it at that time. It has been used a lot.

Impressive! As is the collection...

 

[BlackRock52]

In my experience sooner or later your going to get some rust on any barrel, if it is browned you simply oil it and your done. No more trying to patch up the blue. Then there is rust blue where you initially brown the barrel and then boil it in distilled water to change it to blue.

Did not know it would do that -- thx

 

[mushka]

Years ago mid to late 80's I Plum browned a barrel. Had to draw file, and completely dry, heated the barrel with a bernzomatic gas torch and applied the browning with a rag while it was hot. let it dry, oiled it and started to use it. Over the years the nice plum color has turned almost black but it has never rusted. I think it was the Birchwood Casey browning . It was a .54 cal. TC kit.

 

[BlackRock52]

Thx! Just looked it up and is ~$10.00 at Brownells for 5 oz. Given my color preference I like the aging effect you have

 

[ronaldrothb49]

Thx! Just looked it up and is ~$10.00 at Brownells for 5 oz. Given my color preference I like the aging effect you have

You don't really say what kind of gun your looking at other than it's 12 Gauge. If it is a double shotgun then the barrels are probably soldered together. If it is a half stock single barreled shotgun then the rib is probably soldered to the barrel. I would be very reluctant to use a hot brown on either of these given that heating the barrel could melt the solder holding them together

 

[BlackRock52]

You don't really say what kind of gun your looking at other than it's 12 Gauge. If it is a double shotgun then the barrels are probably soldered together. If it is a half stock single barreled shotgun then the rib is probably soldered to the barrel. I would be very reluctant to use a hot brown on either of these given that heating the barrel could melt the solder holding them together

Good to know - thx. I actually do not know myself...waiting for more info

 

[Artificer]

ronaldrothb49 said:
You don't really say what kind of gun your looking at other than it's 12 Gauge. If it is a double shotgun then the barrels are probably soldered together. If it is a half stock single barreled shotgun then the rib is probably soldered to the barrel. I would be very reluctant to use a hot brown on either of these given that heating the barrel could melt the solder holding them together

Good to know - thx. I actually do not know myself...waiting for more info

It is WAY too easy to overheat a single or double barrel shotgun and have the results ronaldrothb49 mentioned when first doing such work.

However, with a thorough cleaning of the metal parts with acetone, you can rust blue over the browned metal parts, as it works with 212° F boiling point of water.

Gus