Brass or steel punches to remove pins from trade gun

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Col. Batguano

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Pins holding in what?

Other than the lock and barrel, there is generally no need to dismount anything else, unless it needs replacement. Be careful you don't get wood tear-out on the far side too, but it might be inevitable. Not a big deal though. Just glue the pieces back in place.
 
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What rifles use escutcheon plates around pins? Like the escutcheon plates at barrel wedges?
I've wondered if this was an authentic option for my Lehigh Valley poor-boy, but I doubt it.
I also have a CVA kit that has a pinned barrel, and I might install them on it.
I should get a proper punch, too, so I'll be watching this thread.
 
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What rifles use escutcheon plates around pins? Like the escutcheon plates at barrel wedges?
I've wondered if this was an authentic option for my Lehigh Valley poor-boy, but I doubt it.
I also have a CVA kit that has a pinned barrel, and I might install them on it.
I should get a proper punch, too, so I'll be watching this thread.
A punch is the best way to go, but in a pinch a finish nail of proper diameter with the taper end squared off works.
Larry
 

colimr

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brass and steel punches should be in every handyman tool kit. even a delrin punch has it's place as a sight drift. But a finish nail is handy too. I hate it when my wife uses my good hollow ground screwdrivers to open paint cans it's like nails on a chalk board to me
 

Col. Batguano

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I do like to pull pins every few years and wax the channel, I use Johnson furniture wax and glob it on, it dries very firm and I THINK it helps prevent water from getting in to the channel
Ooh. Good idea! Do you re-locate any holes in the metal parts that may have had their ideal locations shift on you too at that time? That sometimes happens due to wood movement, or, in my case, I just got it wrong the first time..
 
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What rifles use escutcheon plates around pins? Like the escutcheon plates at barrel wedges?
I've wondered if this was an authentic option for my Lehigh Valley poor-boy, but I doubt it.
I also have a CVA kit that has a pinned barrel, and I might install them on it.
I should get a proper punch, too, so I'll be watching this thread.
Here's a picture of some I put on one of my production kits a few years ago. Since the kit isn't historically correct to start with, I didn't see any reason for not installing them because they look good and prevent tear out when and if you knock the pins out to pull the barrel. As far as brass or steel I don't think it matters a whole lot as long as the punch is smaller than the pin and you take your time. A brass punch is less likely to mar the end of the pin, but a steel punch will do fine as long as you have it square on the end of the pin.
 

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Here's a picture of some I put on one of my production kits a few years ago. Since the kit isn't historically correct to start with, I didn't see any reason for not installing them because they look good and prevent tear out when and if you knock the pins out to pull the barrel. As far as brass or steel I don't thing it matters a whole lot as long as the punch is smaller than the pin and you take your time. A brass punch is less likely to mar the end of the pin, but a steel punch will do fine as long as you have it square on the end of the pin.
 
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I put on one of my production kits a few years ago.
That's what I'm asking about.
I don't see them very often, and can see the benefit for those that pull their pins, like me.
I, too, use nails, but would buy a brass punch if I came across one.
I also like the idea of waxing the barrel channel. So simple, but it never occurred to me. :dunno:

About the escutcheon plates:
When were these used, and on what guns, or styles, or area, or schools of design?
This question is open to everyone interested.
Thanks.
 
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What rifles use escutcheon plates around pins? Like the escutcheon plates at barrel wedges?
I've wondered if this was an authentic option for my Lehigh Valley poor-boy, but I doubt it.
I also have a CVA kit that has a pinned barrel, and I might install them on it.
I should get a proper punch, too, so I'll be watching this thread. Hawkens rifles in the mid 1800's.
Hawken's rifles used escutcheons in the mid-1800s from what can find. I'm sure other rifle makers did too.
 
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Here's a picture of some I put on one of my production kits a few years ago. Since the kit isn't historically correct to start with, I didn't see any reason for not installing them because they look good and prevent tear out when and if you knock the pins out to pull the barrel. As far as brass or steel I don't think it matters a whole lot as long as the punch is smaller than the pin and you take your time. A brass punch is less likely to mar the end of the pin, but a steel punch will do fine as long as you have it square on the end of the pin.
Was that not done on federal age guns cr 1790- 1810?
 
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Don’t remove the pins. It was likely never done on original trade guns.
Interesting idea. Just because they didn't do it doesn't mean we shouldn't do it. My gun is bare steel no bluing or browning so it is more vulnerable to rust. However, unless it is shot a lot wouldn't remove it. I was thinking more if it got soaked in the rain.
 
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