Punch for stock pins

[yellowhammer]

...be careful and don’t miss the pin...

LOL that's the goal. When I was 30 I couldn't miss. At 66 I'm lucky if I can remember where I laid the hammer.

 

[Scota@4570]

I don't think that's correct. I tried to find some residual material left over from my SMR build to compare, but couldn't. But I'm pretty sure the pin wire provided by Kibler is smaller, and that's why I went to the hardware store music wire. And that's also why he provides those tiny drill bits and that drill guide with his kits. Simply because a 1/16 in. drill bit is too large for his pin wire. But only Jim Kibler can answer that, and hopefully he'll come across this thread and enlighten the bunch of us. Though, maybe .... the pin wire provided with the SMR kit is not the same as provided with the other kits? I dunno ......

I do know, I am absolutely certain of the information I gave.

 

[TDM]

Oh my Lord guys. 2 pages of nonsense about a simple 1/16” pin.
Use a 1/16” punch, (best ones available at Brownells) they are actually a bit undersized, so no damage to the wood, be careful and don’t miss the pin.
This is still not rocket science. You don’t use a sledgehammer to drive a tack.

Yes. But this is definitely more entertaining than another patch lube thread.

 

[Snooterpup]

I do know, I am absolutely certain of the information I gave.

Jim Kibler sends two drill bits and a drilling jig with his kits. The smaller drill bit (.0515), goes inside the drill jig to spot drill the holes in the barrel lugs. The larger drill (.0635) is used to enlarge the previously smaller spot drilled holes in the barrel lugs. Kibler’s supplied pins, music wire(?) measures .0635 as well.
All of these measurements are directly from his Colonial rifle kit.

 

[Scota@4570]

I'm pretty sure, on the newer kits all the holes are drilled and the slots are done for you. I've build eight of them, it all runs together in the memory.

At any rate, they used used leave it to you. He supplied a couple of drill bits, a collet and a guide bushing. The pin stock was 1/64" nominal music wire (0.0625"). They annealed it to make it easier to cut with wire cutters. You clamped the barrel into the stock. Then use the bushing and small bit to drill a slightly smaller hole in the barrel tenon. You then work it out a bit wider favoring the tight side of the hole.

When measuring to the thousandth you really need a good micrometer and gauge blocks. Grab some random calipers and mics and a gauge block and compare. You will find that the tools all measure a little different.

0.0635"or 0.0625" that is all in the margin for error.

The attached photo is actual stuff Kibler supplied to me.

 

[nit wit]

Check out bicycle spokes.
Nit Wit

 

[yellowhammer]

Check out bicycle spokes.
Nit Wit

+1; agree. If I can't get appropriate dowel pins, I fall back on spokes. Most are 18/8 or 18/10 stainless - good stuff.

FYI common modern metric bicycle spoke diameters:

gauge ---dia, (mm, in)
13--------2.3mm, .091"
14--------2.0mm, .079"
15--------1.8mm, .071"

 

[Old Sparky]

I did not have time to read the entire thread but when my punch is too big I Chuck it up in the drill and spin it while holding sandpaper around the punch part with my fingers and a glove or a piece of leather and sand it down to the correct size.

 

[Scota@4570]

K&S metals sells 1/16" music wire. It is the hardest and stiffest wire you can get. The outside is nicley polished. It IS hard to cut. Tap it on the edge of your bench grinder to cut it. You can get it at Ace hardware, hobby shops or Amazon. It is the best material available for the job.

The same stiff music wire makes an excellent punch. IT will not bend in normal use.

I am a bit confused at the insistence to use makeshift material for such an important part. Soft stuff bends. The size is going to be more or less wrong for your 1/16" (defacto standard) hole in the stock. If you use nails and other soft material you run the risk of ruining your stock. A piece of nail or other soft wire is more likely to rust. If it rusts it will stick in the wood. When you try to drive it out it will bend. Now you have a serious problem. Why risk it for 5-cents worth of good pin stock?

 

[wiscoaster]

I do know, I am absolutely certain of the information I gave.

OK, fair enough, and you're certain that applies to all three kits? Most of the discussion here has been wrt the Colonial, and mine was the SMR. If that's the case, I stand corrected.

 

[RMH]

I have two SMR's from Kibler, both use nominal 1/16" pins. So does my Woodsrunner.

 

[yellowhammer]

...1/16" music wire... is the best material available for the job...

The small dia is difficult for some. Music wire is carbon steel, which is not rust resistant.

 

[wiscoaster]

....Music wire is carbon steel, which is not rust resistant. ....

I blued mine.

 

[TDM]

I usually blue mine too.

 

[IanH]

I coat mine in Turtle Wax and if the shine bothers me I sharpie the tips. Bicycle spokes are a good idea since rust-locked pins are a disaster.

 

[Appowner]

Don't know about you guys but I have never had any serious issue with the music wire I use in my RC Models. And over the years I have used miles of this stuff. I find a touch of oil will protect the wire for years.

As mentioned you can find it at Ace, Hobby Lobby, Michael's and on Amazon. And any RC Model hobby shop on or off line.

Here's a link to it on Amazon: 1/16" music wire

 

[Commodore Swab]

In need of a punch for pins. No problem. . .
Take a size smaller drill bit, drill an inch (till you get to the smooth part) or so into a piece of hardwood or dowel. Remove from drill, instant punch for pins. Cheaper bits work better as they are more ductile.