Pin removal prior to stock refinishing

[IanH]

Sorry, meant to mention it and forgot. Brownells for most of them, Snap-on for the roll pin and general punch set. Snap on doesn't make the best punches but they're pretty good and when you're in the profession it's convenient to be able to warranty them out if they bend or a big chip blows out of the tip.

I have two of the HF pin punch punch sets and some cut up pieces of old brass cleaning rod and a small hammer that Ikeep in the range bag for working on other people's stuff or drifting sights at the range.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

That stock can definitely use some reshaping of the cheek piece. Phil Coffin's job is a great example. Also, have the metal parts in the stock when you do the sanding otherwise they will stand proud when you reassemble the rifle.

 

[Butch Martin]

Thank you, I'll try Harbor Freight. Do you recall what you used to strip the stock?

I use Citristrip on stocks. It comes in quart bottles. Brush it on, wait and then scrape with a nylon stripping brush. Then wipe the wood with coarse steel wool. Another application of stripper may be needed. Then wipe the stock with steel wool and mineral spirits. Then set it aside to dry for hours. If you sand, do it lightly. Apply an oil finish of your choice.

I got a set of Grace pin drifts from Midway or somewhere else that I keep on hand for when I need them. They are seven in number made of steel and the smallest is one-sixteenth of an inch.

I wish you success on your project.

 

[Rob M.]

Just take a finish nail and flatten the pointed end , tap the pins out . If you want a longer one for some reason you van add a wood handle to it or take a longer , larger finish nail and spin it on the grinder to get the diameter you need / want . The should tap out from lock side yo side plate side but be sure and check first. As ole dude says ....when pin sticks out , pull it out with pliers the rest of the way ...