• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

And Another Kibler Colonial

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Lock side skirt roughed in. On to the other side.
1634136756785.jpeg

1634136778145.jpeg
 
Finally got time to work on the other side.
1634395011283.jpeg

1634395041581.jpeg

Started cleaning up the edges, when that is done will detail out the carving around the tang.
 
Wow that is a good looking center piece. I like the sculpting and the deep relief carving really makes it pop out. Looks like I need to go deeper now, Ha!......Labrat
 
Thanks labrat. It's deep but not as deep as it looks. I would not change a thing on the way you are carving, just wished I could of done a light relief around the tang area.
 
This will be an exquisite looking rifle. Your detailing and designs look wonderful. And the fact that you have several physical issues to contend with in doing this work makes it even more remarkable. I am really learning a few lessons here, thanks 🙂
 
Sharpen the head of a flat top screw and screw it into a dowel about 6" long. Align the slot end with your desired cut and slide t he dowel up the ramrod channel. The corner of the slot will cut a nice straight line. Don't start the cut until you line up where you want it. I used about a .5" or 5/8" dowel for 3/8" ramrod channel. That lets the screw head reach over the edge of the channel at a better angle.
show a picture please.
 
Here is my "precision" tool. LIne the slot up 90deg. to the line your want to cut. It will cut a nice straight line that you can expand or use it as it is. Adjust the screw to the desired distance from t he ramrod channel. The rounded ends keep it from grabbing.

P_20181023_113118_HDR.jpg
 
This will be an exquisite looking rifle. Your detailing and designs look wonderful. And the fact that you have several physical issues to contend with in doing this work makes it even more remarkable. I am really learning a few lessons here, thanks 🙂
Thank you PathfinderNC... I'm by no means a master builder but I try...
 
Hi Norman,
You are doing very well. The carving looks great. Make sure you look at your beaver tails from the top, bottom, and back to see if they are symmetrical on both sides. Having said that, however, there is no real need to obsess too much about symmetry because you can only see one side at a time and most original guns show differences. I typically just try to get them to look mostly the same and let it go at that. EC121's little marking jig works well as long as the fore stock was shaped evenly along the ramrod channel. That is where Kibler's kit is really good because it is shaped very precisely. Where marking jigs have trouble is when the sides of the stock are not even along the ramrod channel. That often is the case with stocks shaped from blanks with planes and rasps. The marked line ends up a bit wavy and you have to go back and straighten it. When you are carving, I urge you to use a single bulb lamp held at low angle to the wood. That will show up the rough spots and uneven ground.

dave
 
Hi Norman,
You are doing very well. The carving looks great. Make sure you look at your beaver tails from the top, bottom, and back to see if they are symmetrical on both sides. Having said that, however, there is no real need to obsess too much about symmetry because you can only see one side at a time and most original guns show differences. I typically just try to get them to look mostly the same and let it go at that. EC121's little marking jig works well as long as the fore stock was shaped evenly along the ramrod channel. That is where Kibler's kit is really good because it is shaped very precisely. Where marking jigs have trouble is when the sides of the stock are not even along the ramrod channel. That often is the case with stocks shaped from blanks with planes and rasps. The marked line ends up a bit wavy and you have to go back and straighten it. When you are carving, I urge you to use a single bulb lamp held at low angle to the wood. That will show up the rough spots and uneven ground.

dave
Thanks dave
I think I have a clamp on light that a can use for shadowing. That is a good idea I'm glad you suggested it. Another thing I like about this time of year is the sun shines though my southern window in my work shop which helps also... Thanks again.
Norm
 
Looking good Norman. Looks well sanded but I know the dark grain makes it very difficult to see those uneven areas. I'm working on my stock also and I find that staring at those strips make my eyes cross & can't see clearly, Ha. Have you raised the grain with water yet? I think it's necessary at least a couple of times. Last week I accidentally spilled a good amount of water on my stock and after it dryed I couldn't believer how much the grains roughened up. Also did you sand the lock for a smooth surface? .......Labrat
 
Looking good Norman. Looks well sanded but I know the dark grain makes it very difficult to see those uneven areas. I'm working on my stock also and I find that staring at those strips make my eyes cross & can't see clearly, Ha. Have you raised the grain with water yet? I think it's necessary at least a couple of times. Last week I accidentally spilled a good amount of water on my stock and after it dryed I couldn't believer how much the grains roughened up. Also did you sand the lock for a smooth surface? .......Labrat
Thanks labrat. Getting ready to do the whiskering on the wood. Currently finishing the trigger guard and getting it ready to mount. I have not done anything with finishing the lock yet, going to polish it out before I do any finish or engraving on it.
 
Wow that color really makes the stripes and wood carvings pop. I love the subtle yellow background. Gives the rifle a tint of elegance. Very nice job and looking forward to seeing it completed. I'm about 90% done. Just need to finish the sanding & final stages before staining. May I ask what products you used?......Labrat
 

Latest posts

Back
Top