54 cal. Lyman

[tkstae]

I've been shooting my Lyman for serval years now useing only blackpowder without any problems at all as long as I use fff. It's when I switch to ff that there is a problem. After firing it the first time it's all over. I cannot get to fire after that unless I give the barrel a complete cleaning. It's been that way since the very start, so I don't think there's a problem with build up or poor cleaning of the rifle. Never a misfire as long as I stick to fff. Common sense says stick to fff, but I'm stubborn. Just wondering if anyone else has the same problem with their Lyman or is it ME. Thanks for any help.

 

[Cherokee]

My brother shoots the trade rifle and he uses the subsitute powders. He has problems with the vent hole clogging up after a few shots and swabbing between shots.
I have helped him clean out the nipple and run a pick or pipe cleaner in there as best as possible and even try to pour some 3f out of my priming horn to light it off and its just clogged. A few times hes got the powder gummy from leftover solvent hidden on that patent breach.
We usually get it cleaned out and running at the range but its a hassle.

 

[BrownBear]

Sounds strange to me. I have to clean my Lyman 54 (cap) more often with FF, but it still works. I get about 10 shots without misfires using FFF and 5 or so with FF, but it's simply a matter of running a pick into the nipple to clear things up. I know those intervals and usually pick the nipple ahead of schedule and never experience misfires.

Could it have anything to do with your lube? I'm using commercial prelubed patches, but fouling is even less of a problem when I'm using loading blocks with a little extra Bore Butter smeared in the bottoms to help secure the patch/ball.

 

[Mad Monk]

When you load the gun with 3F powder some will go into the passage between the powder chamber in the breech plug and the base of the nipple. With 2F you may not get that powder intrusion into the passage. When the flame exits the nipple it must make a 90 degree turn and then travel a little distance before contacting any grains of powder.

Take a close look at the nipple. I had a nipple in my Lyman Trade Rifle that was a bit longer than ideal for the gun. Using a depth guage I noticed that when the nipple was screwed in place it almost touched the bottom of the passage over to the powder chamber. I switched to a vented nipple that was just a bit shorter in the threaded section. That gave a little more space under the nipple and the vented nipple helped to clear fouling out of the passage when the charge fired. The switch to the vented, shorter nipple cured the problem. Now there is no difference in the gun using 2F or 3F.

 

[Otter]

I've had much the same problem with my .54 GPR perc gun when using 2f or Ctg grade (I have only used Goex for any of my MLs). Problem disappears when I use 3f. Before finally overcoming my stubborness and switching to 3f, I would use my CO2 discharger to clear the channel about every 3 or 4 shots. Got tired of buying the CO2 cartridges. Don't really know what the real problem might be, with yours or mine, but the 3f seems to be a viable solution . . .

Watch yer topknot . . . Otter

 

[jethro224]

Seems wierd to me. Are you smacking the lock side to help get powder in as far as possible? Loading at half cock? That seems to help blow powder down into the channel too.
My caplock .50 GPR prefers 2f. My .54 flint GPR likes 3f. :hmm:
Last shooting session with the caplock, I went 25 rounds with only a slightly damp patch every 5th shot.

 

[cowpoke1955]

I use FFg Goex in my .54 GPR without any problems. Can shoot a comlete match (20 rounds) without swabbing the barrel once. But I do tap the side of the lock like Jethro says. Some old timers told me about that and it seems to work for me.

 

[BrownBear]

Come to think of it, you may be onto something j224. One of my hunting pards had trouble with misfires in 3 different caplocks. Turns out he was clearing and replacing the old cap as a final step in loading, rather than clearing first, then recapping last. He said he was simply trying to save time. Lifting the hammer and clearing the old cap before loading really extended the # of shots he could take before misfires and time to clean the nipple.

 

[Rat Trapper]

This post has be a little confused as to why this is happening. I have a TC Hawken 54 Cal that I use 2F Tripple Seven in and with conicals using TC bore butter I find I do not have to wipe between loads at all. Plus I do not have misfires at all?? From everything I have read and been told black powder should be even easier to light. I'm using Triple seven as no one around here carries black powder any more. Since I am not having any problems with the Triple Seven no reason to run all over the state looking for black powder. I'm wondering if there is a gun or gun design problem?? Interested in more in put on this subject and problem with this rifle.

 

I have a 54 GPR. So far I am only using 2F pyrodex.
When I load, I tap the side of the lock to settle the powder.I also keep a nipple primer in my bag. There about $8.00 at TOTW. They are great for clearing plugged nipples. After every shot I blow through the nipple,( until I see Smoke comming out of the barrel). This assures me that I have a clear path from the nipple to the firing chamber for the next shot.If I dont see smoke or I think I have a plug, Ill use my nipple primer.Just fill the nipple with 4F,(I grind 3F with a mortar and pestel) put on your cap and fire.

 

[Mad Professor]

I've got an old 58 cal lyman plains rifle and have never had a problem using GOEX FFg, CCI caps and hotshot nipples. Sounds like your problem is between the hammer and the breech, not with the powder.

If you can still remove the cleanout screw do so and check the flash path from the snail to the breech, visually with a light. Be sure that there is not a piece of metal partially blocking the path from the machining processes when the rifle was made/assembled. Drop your ramrod down the barrel, can you see the end in the breech? While you've got the screw out thread in the nipple and check, as suggested above, that its not threading into the snail too far. Try a different nipple. Previous posts have noted they had problems with factory nipples. Also one other thought, is the hammer hitting the cap well centered and square on the nipple?

Having the spent cap removed when loading may help some powder get into the flash channel as will giving the gun a tap or gentle shake to the lock side. Regardless I've forgot to pull the spent caps off many times and never have resorted to shaking/tapping, still no problem with misfires.

 

[AeroncaTAL]

I haven't had my GPR percussion too long, but the only problems I had at first with misfires was do to the nipple. Replaced that and have had no problems with firing. I'm using Goex FF black powder...
Scott

 

[LarryB]

I have to agree with the profesor. On my old lyman planes rifle it burnes every thing I have tried to shoot. Mostly 2f goex. The screw that pluggs the fire channel froze up so I drilled it out and replaced it. I take it and the nipple out every time I clean. I also use lots of water to wash the patened breach out.

 

[BrownBear]

I need to back up and clarify something. Is the issue tha your cap is firing, but the powder is not igniting, or is it a case of the cap not firing on shots after the first one?

 

[voltagehound]

I have had my GPR for 13 years and have tried FF several times. My GPR is a .54 flinter. I always have problems with fowling when I use FF 1 to 2 shots is it. I use 85gr. FFF PRB with wonder lube and can shoot all day without swabbing the barrel.I understand this does not help you much but I dont feel that shooting FFF is a problem if that is what your GPR likes.

 

[cowpoke1955]

Air knocker, I've had my GPR for over 25 years. When it started to fail to pop caps, I did the same. Replaced the factory nipple with a Spit Fire about 15 years ago. No problems since. By the way, I've flown a couple of Champs and a Chief in my days. Great planes. Love them, low and slow.

 

[RickD]

I had the same problem and replaced the factory nipple..Problem solved

 

[playfarmers]

Replace the nipple with a "Magnum Spitfire", and never look back. I have the Lyman Deerstalker and using Pyrodex and Wonderlube patches, I can shoot all day without wiping the bore.

 

[tkstae]

I would like to thank everyone for all the help and advice. You have given me several good ideas. I'll back the screw out and try to check for anything that might be blocking things. I do back the bolster clean out screw often to run hot soapy water thru it. The first thing I tried was buying a Hot Shot nipple for it. It didn't help. Maybe theres a different one out there that will. I haven't run my nipple prick thru after each shot, so that might be the problem. Theres too many of you guys out there not having problems with the Lyman for it to be the rifles problem. If anyone could give me the name of the nipple there using on their Lyman I'll switch it out again. I'm using CCI or Remington Caps with pre lubed patches. I clean it with hot soapy water as i've done with other rifles for years, and use ballistol on it after cleaning. Again thanks for all your help.

 

[spaethjm]

After you clean with soap and water try a 90o/o alcohol swab. The alcohol will displace and evaporate any water that has not evaporated help prevent any hidden crevices rusting