Last coat of thinned out Minwax Antique Oil finish (similar to True oil) has dried for 24 hrs. and just buffed with 0000 wool . How long before I can buff out with a coat of Johnson paste floor wax ? Stock in completely dry, but not sure if it needed X amount of days to fully "cure" . -Thanks
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How long before waxing a stock ?
- Thread starter kyron4
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Personally I never use wax. Once you start using it over time it starts to look "patchy". Then one has to apply again to make it look all even. It can be a never ending cycle.
Erwan
45 Cal.
I never had to use wax after True Oil, wood don't need it I think....
Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
If I use it it is older stocks, very well cured.
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I don't wax my guns. When the stock is dry from any cleaning after shooting, I just take a small fluffy bath towel and hand rub. Pressure with strokes will bring out your already there finish. Forget the wax.
Larry
When I'm shooting a lot I hit the gun with some Lemon Pledge spray, it really spiffs it up and takes only seconds to do, when I'm done with the gun for a while I us a good quality hardwood floor wax.
On a freshly made gun I don't put any wax on it the first year, letting the finish harden up on its own time.
Robby
On a freshly made gun I don't put any wax on it the first year, letting the finish harden up on its own time.
Robby
I used to use the Waukegan Bay tru coat, but I believe they are no longer in business. I’ve used the original oil finish from track of the wolf. It smells and feels like the Waukegan bay oil
It goes on one heavy coat, wipe and let stand, buff, then one THIN coat per day for a week, once a week for a month, I buff with soft cloth before next coat.
A month after my last coat I wax
Buff after cleaning, oil the stock, wax at begging of fall then again early spring.
All my guns are pinned and at finel assembly I wax the barrel channel pretty heavy
It goes on one heavy coat, wipe and let stand, buff, then one THIN coat per day for a week, once a week for a month, I buff with soft cloth before next coat.
A month after my last coat I wax
Buff after cleaning, oil the stock, wax at begging of fall then again early spring.
All my guns are pinned and at finel assembly I wax the barrel channel pretty heavy
One rule of thumb is that when you can no longer smell the varnish, oil (or what ever) then it isn't gassing off and it is dry. However, I have read that it needs to cure anywhere from a few days up to a month before applying a wax, depending on various climate factors. Any moisture trapped in the wood will make the finish milky. Let it continue to dry for a spell.
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The Appalachian
Feral American
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I wait a week after the last coat of linseed oil. A couple weeks might be better.
Then Axe Wax once a year, more doesn't hurt. Doesn't get blotchy, keeps the same satin glow all the time. I don't find it a bother to rub my rifles down with wax. Can't know why it would bother others.
Then Axe Wax once a year, more doesn't hurt. Doesn't get blotchy, keeps the same satin glow all the time. I don't find it a bother to rub my rifles down with wax. Can't know why it would bother others.
hanshi
Cannon
I generaly buff with a soft cloth for cleanup most of the time. Other than that I occasionally wipe them with a rag that is damp with Type "F" tranny fluid.
About a month after the last coat of BLO I put on a coat of Renaissance wax. I may touch up the wax once a year there after depending on how much use the gun gets.
I don’t use wax on my gun stocks. Every gun stock I have finished is done with Tung oil. If I have the gun apart I will wipe down the wood with a 4 to 1 mix of mineral spirits and Tung oil. Cleans and seals up any nicks or dings. Maybe once a every year or two. Seems to add to the character. Just DO NOT want to store old oily rags in the house - great fire starters.
If I were to wax a stock finished with BLO, I would give BLO 90 days minimum to cure, maybe longer.
If I were to wax a stock finished with BLO, I would give BLO 90 days minimum to cure, maybe longer.
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Your finish should tell you how long it takes to fully cure.
At that point, wax if you must.
At that point, wax if you must.
Never heard of using TF on wood stock, just barrels and bores.
I got to ask, why Type F specifically, why not Mercon V ? Haven't used Type F since I had a '74 Gran Torino with a C6 tranny. I bet I still have an open quart out in the barn. lol
I like wax on m/l finish , as the final coat , and maintenance coat , after the gun is cleaned from firing and , or , taken out in foul weather. Minwax Special Dark Furniture wax hides all those little scratches , from crawling around in the laurel , and rocks.
I use Johnson paste wax on my guns a lot, The Brits used it on their fine doubles so. I hunt in wet weather so I wipe down the entire gun in a couple coats before going out. As for drying time, I would give your finish at least a month before waxing. If you can faintly smell the finish, it's not dry yet..
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Hi,
For most quick drying finishes, wait at least a week if you live in a dry place and 2 weeks if humid. With BLO I suggest doubling that time. Mix a little bit of stain in the wax and apply sparingly. Buff it off as completely as you can. The coloring will hide any excess wax in tight corners and gaps that you don't buff off that usually turns white when dry.
dave
For most quick drying finishes, wait at least a week if you live in a dry place and 2 weeks if humid. With BLO I suggest doubling that time. Mix a little bit of stain in the wax and apply sparingly. Buff it off as completely as you can. The coloring will hide any excess wax in tight corners and gaps that you don't buff off that usually turns white when dry.
dave
Renaissance Wax for me! I waited a week after final coat of Permalyn
hanshi
Cannon
Type "F" is essentially a liquid wax, or at least works as such. It's paraffin based. I do not use it in any bore but do use it on metal and wood. I've used it for decades and it seems to protect the stock better than paste wax. I do use paste wax at least once a year on guns and Type F after every cleaning.
