Wooden Dowel Ramrod

[Loyalist Dave]

So I have been fussing with my .40, as it wasn't very reliable with main charge ignition. I found out the touch hole had an odd burr, but was 1/16th size, and a gentle application of a 1/16 drill bit cleared the hole.

So off to the range to check the sights and the ignition, as squirrel season is less than two weeks away. The first shot was excellent at 50 yards, and when loading the second shot, SNAP.

:cursing:

Now I wasn't flexing the rod very much.., and as my hand hit the jagged piece of rod protruding from the muzzle, my hand wasn't off center from the bore. I think from what I saw the break showed the grain on the rod was not running lengthwise but at about a 45 degree from the rod..., So that was the end of my day at the range, and back to the house I went.

Luckily I had a spare rod blank and fashioned a working replacement in about an hour. Then back to the range just as it was about to close, rammed down the charge to the powder, and cleared the rifle. Then back to the house to clean, and to stain and finished the new rod.

I don't normally use the factory rod that comes in a factory gun, but this was a rifle built by a builder and bought in-the-white, so I didn't think I needed to replace the ramrod when it came. I've been burned in the past with factory ramrods that were nothing more than hardwood dowels not intended for ramrod use. I've never had a problem when I make my own ramrod from blanks from Track, so I don't know what to say other than it was stupid on my part. Live (and bleed) and learn.

:redface:

LD

 

[Billnpatti]

Glad you weren't badly wounded when the rod broke. That's why I never use my wooden ramrods to load a gun. I just keep them in the thimbles for looks and I carry a metal or polymer rangerod to load and clean with. I have a polymer rod for most of my rifles that will fit in the thimbles and I can change out rods if I am hunting or doing a woodswalk and loading from my bag. Not HC but that's not a problem for me. If I'm loading at a bench, my personal preference is a brass rod with a muzzle protector and a brass doorknob on the end to protect my hand. They can't be beat when loading at a bench but are a bit of a problem in the woods. That's when I switch to one of my polymer rods that fit in the thimbles. Be safe. :hatsoff:

 

[Rifleman1776]

Can't add much to that. But will emphasize, I am also pleased you were not seriously injured.
Yes, as many here know, I use Delrin quite a bit as well as a stainless steel loading rod. For historic presentations and ronny I do have wood.
Rods should not be flexed in use but it happens and anything in wood but a quality hickory can easily break and injure the user.

 

[David W.]

I had a hickory rod break on me once. That taught me a lesson on how to read "grain run-out". Also, one should not place one's hand too far up the rod when seating.

 

[Baxter]

"..a rifle built by a builder.." Makes no sense to me that a builder would supply a cheap dowel as a ramrod; does not excuse the shooter from knowing his tools but I am one of those "trusting souls" who would as likely "assume" that the builder provided serviceable parts in every aspect of the kit. Glad that either you were not injured or at least not seriously injured. I trust my builder and his supplied ram-rod and it looks like a fine, straight-grained wood but I trust my SS range rod a whole lot more and have an ugly Delrin rod for other occasions. baxter

 

[Bon Sauvage]

Thank goodness that you weren't hurt.

I guess that the rod hadn't been soaked in kerosene, eh?

 

[Coot]

Glad it was not a serious injury.

Perhaps the rods are supposed to be soaked in iodine rather than kerosene? :idunno:

 

[pargent]

Feel for you that is why I have made steel or brass rods for my guns and I just couldn't bring myself to be one of those range wombles that carry range rods and enough gear to build a new gun on their belt (fyi good hickory is just not available down here )

 

[Stumpkiller]

The doweling process doesn't make the best ramrods. Ramin and poplar aren't especially good choices to begin with (hardware/lumber store dowels).

Start with a hickory split and you won't have grain run-out. Doweling machines grind the wood to shape and the grain can be anywhere.

 

[tenngun]

Glad you werhurt to bad. Over the past 23 years I,ve broke only one rod while loading and two or three cleaning. Wood is a natural product and can fail. so I would be slow to blame the maker. I just can't bringmy self to use nought but wood in my front stuffers.

 

[rdillion]

I've never had a problem using good hickory ramrods and I'm pretty rough with them. I've made many arrows out of dowel rods and they are fine so long as you pay attention to the grain. I wouldn't hesitate to use a dowel rod so long as the grain is straight. That being said, buy a half dozen good hickory ramrods and look them over good.

 

[tenngun]

Ment 43 years not 23

 

[flyfisher76544]

Like the others stated, glad you weren't hurt

 

[Loyalist Dave]

No, a little blood and a lot of embarrassment.

Makes no sense to me that a builder would supply a cheap dowel as a ramrod;

To be fair, I don't know if the fellow made the ramrod, or if he bought it made as part of a set of parts. I finished it and should have looked real hard, but I too "assumed". So the "fault" may simply be from whomever made it for Track or whatever supplier..., and mine own. If you get some mass produced stuff, you get some exceptions to the desired product from time to time. My bad.

I did soak it but perhaps not enough. I have broken one straight grained rod once in the past 30 years. It broke square; this broke with a sort of pointed angle like this /|. When I first got into muzzleloading, I replaced a ramrod on my 20 ga. SxS from Pedersoli with a wooden dowel from Lowes, and broke it pretty quick even after soaking in kero..., with same sort of pointed tip formed at the break. Didn't stick myself that time though, and then learned one needs the straight grained stuff, or it's merely a matter of time before it breaks. My other rifles have straight grained rods, never a worry.



LD

 

[Capt. Jas.]

Before splitting them, I have spent hours at large events going thru hundreds of ramrod blanks to find only two or three without runout. I cannot think anyone building an in the white gun could afford to take that kind of time.

 

[Baxter]

Excellent string! After I put my CVA mountain rifle kit together in 1979, I took it to a smith in Merced to have the bore slugged. He looked at the ramrod and offered me a decent price on a sturdy fibreglass-impregnated rod; that rod is still in the rifle and doing fine - heavy but reassuring. Maybe folks would like to post the names/addresses of suppliers of known good quality rods? I'd bet that more than a few readers are taking a new look at their ramrods now? TIA. baxter

 

[kopfjaeger]

http://www.periodramrod.com/

 

[Zonie]

For those new to muzzleloading and what grain runout on a ramrod looks like, study this drawing.

Notice the boundary lines between the layers of wood form a pointed shape when they meet the surface.



If your ramrod has these characteristic lines it is dangerous and it should not be used to ram the load down the barrel (or anything else for that matter).

Each one of those pointed spiral looking things can become a razor sharp point that can easily go clear thru your hand or arm.

All of the big factories like TC, Lyman, Traditions etc supply ramrods like this.
They are better for decorating than for actual use.

If your ramrod has these lines on it, get something else to use to load your gun.

 

[bpd303]

Good advice & thanks for showing what a bad rod looks like.

 

[tenngun]

I dont know if this is true or not...just somthing I do.Did you ever notice how easy it is to cut with the grain ( the way the tree grew) as opposed to against it? I always set my tips so the presure is against the grain...the tip on the high end of the stick.
Any way I've only broke one rod while loading.