Wonderlube

[mike alexandre]

For those of us not living in the center of the world who may be having trouble getting Wonderlube - just what is actualy (or approx) in it.

 

[roundball]

For those of us not living in the center of the world who may be having trouble getting Wonderlube - just what is actualy (or approx) in it.

If you find out, let us all know
:grin:

 

[Dave K]

I have been using Birddog6's patch lube for the last couple years. He makes a liguid and a grease. I like them both, but the grease is great for hunting or when the gun may be loaded for a while. You may ask him.

 

[navaho]

I understand it is made from Olive Oil & Beeswax, but not sure.

 

[mike alexandre]

So whats the pungent smell caused by ?. we must have a chemist somewhere.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Oil of wintergreen? Oil of camphor? It's some kind of added smell.

 

[Protrucker]

They could leave out the added odor! I don't like to be in the woods trying to bag "Bambi" & my gun giving off that strong smell. Even the "pine scent" is too strong & if you're hunting in hardwoods smelling like a pine tree doesn't work anyway.

 

[roundball]

They could leave out the added odor! I don't like to be in the woods trying to bag "Bambi" & my gun giving off that strong smell. Even the "pine scent" is too strong & if you're hunting in hardwoods smelling like a pine tree doesn't work anyway.

I think by the time a deer could ever smell wintergreen from NL1000, they would have long since already smelled us.

I've used NL1000 for 15+ years...it's been an outstanding lube for me and doesn't seem to bother deer any, taken a lot of mine at 20, 30, 40yds

 

[mike alexandre]

Stumpy . Ever tried Lanolin as a lub, either patch or conical ?.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Not in the pure form. I've used mutton tallow that has a trace. For many tears I used beeswax/Crisco/tallow in equal parts for a lube. Not the best but serviceable.

 

[J.D.]

This was copied from another list, long ago.
The The author was giving his opinion on bore butter, based on his knowledge of chemistry, but I suspect that wonerlube is the same thing.

>> The lube consists of paraffin wax melted into USP heavy mineral oil. To that is added an oil soluble dye to give it color.
Also added is a synthetic oil of wintergreen. This is where the food grade ingredient thing comes from. Except that oil of wintergreen is not a food grade item since it is somewhat toxic. Tincture of wintergreen would be food grade.
The thing about a magic additive that "micronizes" the lube is a bit of fiction. Paraffin wax is a hard, brittle crystalline wax. The addition of a small amount of a particular type of fossil wax, made in Germany, will reduce the size of the crystals formed in solidified paraffin wax but certainly nothing on the order of a micron size which would be indicated by the term micronized. The German's pioneered the use of this modified paraffin wax (using the "micronizer") back in the late 19th century as a way of making paraffin waxes acceptable in skin care preparations, replacing petrolatum wax.

If you don't want the oil of wintergreen odor you can make your own version by buying blocks of paraffin wax sold for use in canning and USP mineral oil.

I am still not fond of the grease-like lubes based on paraffin wax. As long as the surface temperature of the bore is above the melting point of the paraffin wax you can stand there and easily reload the gun. When the surface of the bore
drops below the melt point of the wax you have a film of hard wax that almost glues the fouling to the metal. An historic feat then involves getting the 3rd or 4th round down the bore without having to beat it down the bore.

 

[mike alexandre]

Thanks for your opinions everyone. I agree on the Moose Milk and snot statements certainly for patchball. I'm going to work through the lubes for conical next. JM