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What leather for...

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I use deer skin scraps. I have used Elk or buffalo It kind of depends on the size of the lock and what I get out of my scrap bag first. I am sure others will have better advice than I gave, but I didn't find much difference in any leathers that I could fold over a flint and clamp it in the jaws. I even had an emergency ( OK I forgot my stuff) and used a wadded up piece of grocery bag, worked OK for a while. Good luck
 
I'm pretty sure he's refering to the 2 pcs pf the "cock" or hammer if you prefer that clamp down and hold the flint in place.
 
Really just whatever you have around, I like thin leather because I think it doesn't give as much as thick soft leather but that's just me. If you don't have any search for a leather shop near by, most of them have a scrap bin you can get some strips from for dirt cheap. Some people like to use lead, and it does work but if you have a new gun/lock it can void a warranty
 
I've tried different things over the years...right now I am using the leather I cut out of my old timberland boots, works great and it makes me feel good to recycle or re-allocate stuff to new purposes... :thumbsup:
 
FWIW:
I use both thick and thin leathers, depending on the lock geometry and the (somewhat) variable sizes of the flints. By selecting a suitable thickness of leather, and, sometimes, by notching the leather to clear the cock screw, allowing the flint to sit further back in the cock, you can change the height at which the flint strikes the frizzen, and the clearance between the flint and the face of the frizzen when the lock is at half-cock.
mhb - Mike
 
Deer skin typically works best for me. Just about any leather will do though, as long as it's not too thick.

I always cut a "V" notch where the leather meets the jaw screw.
 
The actual thing to consider here is the flint. If you have irregularly shaped flints you want a thicker leather. If your flints are pretty flat and parallel, you can get by with thin leather or even lead. :hmm:
Lead has other problems so I don't recommend it, however. :td:
A shoe repair or saddle shop will have all the leather you could want and sometimes they will even cut it into little pieces for you, that fit. :thumbsup:
 
I use two pieces of veg tanned leather cut to the shape of the jaws. Punch a hole in them for the screw and you won't loose them.
 
Ebiggs's comment about flint shape and size is SPOT on. I focus on buying flat topped flints that are easy to clamp. With these and sawn flints I actually use a piece of 300 gritt emery cloth, with the rough side to the flint. Clamps great and the flint never moves around. For more irregualr flint I use leather of enough thickness to level it out.
 
A buddy of mine has what probably qualifies as an "heirloom" leather. Quite the story behind it.

Close to two decades ago he was on a hunt, and discovered his flint was gone, along with the leather. He was carrying a spare flint, but no leather. Hacked off the top of the tongue on the White logging boots he wears for hunting, and fixed it all.

All these years later he's still using it!
 
If I had choice I'd use something like elk skin. but since I don't have any I use what I got. Any somewhat flexible leather not to thick.
 
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