Finishing questions

[hbagley]

I just received my kibler woodsrunner. I have a question as to finishing the stock. My plan is to use aqua fortis and then apply tried and true varnish oil. What needs to go into the barrell channel and lock mortise?? I ordered permalyn sealer but wasn't sure if that would work. Do I need to seal the stock with anything before applying the aqua fortis and tried and true ? I wasn't sure if it needed permalyn over everything for a final protective coating or if that was what the tried and true was for. Do I need to apply wax or some type of waterproofed to protect the final coat. Basically what steps does everything go on in. Thank you

 

[Indy Durtdigger]

Do the Aquaforte's first being careful not to get it into the inlet areas. I would strongly recommend doing some sample pieces first complete with oiling to see the finished look. Might even try light sanding after the heat treat and multiple applications to see the color differences.
I always put a couple light coats of clear sealer on the non-finished surfaces, but others don't.

Here is a Kibler Colonial I just did. 2 applications of Aquaforte's. Light sanding after the first didn't sand after the second. Gave it a somewhat darker aged look. The finish on the brass is Jax Black polished with steel wool. Also used the same on the steel parts but left them to wear on their own.

Jim Kibler has a couple vids on finishing these rifles on his YouTube channel, most certainly worth a watch.

 

[hbagley]

Do the Aquaforte's first being careful not to get it into the inlet areas. I would strongly recommend doing some sample pieces first complete with oiling to see the finished look. Might even try light sanding after the heat treat and multiple applications to see the color differences.















I always put a couple light coats of clear sealer on the non-finished surfaces, but others don't.































Here is a Kibler Colonial I just did. 2 applications of Aquaforte's. Light sanding after the first didn't sand after the second. Gave it a somewhat darker aged look.































Jim Kibler has a couple vids on finishing these rifles on his YouTube channel, most certainly worth a watch.







Do the Aquaforte's first being careful not to get it into the inlet areas. I would strongly recommend doing some sample pieces first complete with oiling to see the finished look. Might even try light sanding after the heat treat and multiple applications to see the color differences.



I always put a couple light coats of clear sealer on the non-finished surfaces, but others don't.







Here is a Kibler Colonial I just did. 2 applications of Aquaforte's. Light sanding after the first didn't sand after the second. Gave it a somewhat darker aged look.







Jim Kibler has a couple vids on finishing these rifles On his YouTube channel, most certainly worth a watch.



Do the Aquaforte's first being careful not to get it into the inlet areas. I would strongly recommend doing some sample pieces first complete with oiling to see the finished look. Might even try light sanding after the heat treat and multiple applications to see the color differences.

I always put a couple light coats of clear sealer on the non-finished surfaces, but others don't.



Here is a Kibler Colonial I just did. 2 applications of Aquaforte's. Light sanding after the first didn't sand after the second. Gave it a somewhat darker aged look. The finish on the brass is Jax Black polished with steel wool. Also used the same on the steel parts but left them to wear on their Iown.



Jim Kibler has a couple vids on finishing these rifles on his YouTube channel, most certainly worth a watch.

 

[hbagley]

Looks good man. I guess my concern is sealing the wood. Is the tried and true waterproof or is there a final coat that goes on last? I've watched lots of his videos but I have never seen anything put on as far as a waterproofer is concerned.

 

[akroguy]

Yes, do indeed be careful to avoid the AF from contacting any inlays or in lock mortise. I mix in some turpentine into the Tried and True and I believe it allows it to penetrate deeper into the wood. I add some Laurel Mountain Forge Cherry stain to give it some red color. The Colonial in my avatar pic is how a single AF application plus the above stain mixture looks on standard grade maple.

 

[BillKilgore]

I think you have a good plan. As Indy said, experiment before you commit to the entire stock. Aqua fortis is an acid. Some people like to neutralize the acid with baking soda in water. Others just flush thoroughly with water. If you do not have maple scraps to practice on, you can experiment in the barrel channel.

Good luck. I'm looking forward to seeing pics.

 

[James Kibler]

Sealing inlets is optional. Originals were never sealed. They did the job. People get uptight about sealing inlets today. I sometimes do it and sometimes don't depending on how motivated I feel. You can do it with your first coat of finish, whatever that might be.

As far as neutralizing iron nitrate goes, again some people don't and some do. I fall into the "don't" camp. I see no need to do neutralizing or flushing with water etc. if you keep it out of the inlets.



Indy,

Nice looking rifle pictured above!

Jim

 

[TDM]

I just received my kibler woodsrunner. I have a question as to finishing the stock. My plan is to use aqua fortis and then apply tried and true varnish oil. What needs to go into the barrell channel and lock mortise?? I ordered permalyn sealer but wasn't sure if that would work. Do I need to seal the stock with anything before applying the aqua fortis and tried and true ? I wasn't sure if it needed permalyn over everything for a final protective coating or if that was what the tried and true was for. Do I need to apply wax or some type of waterproofed to protect the final coat. Basically what steps does everything go on in. Thank you

You’ve gotten some great advice in all the above post. And getting it straight from Jim is hard to beat.

 

[Art Caputo]

I used a single coat of Permalyn Sealer in the “bare wood” lock mortise and barrel channel of my Kibler Colonial. No Aquafortis in these areas. It seals well, and is un-noticeable. I do a lot of hunting in rain/snow. Between that, and the occasional water/solvent that drips into those areas when cleaning, I would prefer to not have the untreated wood absorb excess moisture.

 

[Indy Durtdigger]

Looks good man. I guess my concern is sealing the wood. Is the tried and true waterproof or is there a final coat that goes on last? I've watched lots of his videos but I have never seen anything put on as far as a waterproofer is concerned.

The Permalyn applied in multiple coats after the coloring or staining has been done will seal the wood. I used a similar product Minwax makes and applies the same way. Finish picks up a luster after the third coat and subsequent coats make it a richer finish. Just make sure the coats after the first one are put on sparingly and hand rubbed till warmth can be felt. Should you choose to apply a coat to the inlay surfaces don't use too much. I had to scrape some out in a couple places that I didn't get the excess wiped all the way off when I went to final assembly.

 

[Col. Batguano]

What's wrong with getting stain in to the inlet areas? Granted it will seep in to the end grain more, and maybe make things darker bordering them but what's the harm in that?

 

[TDM]

Stain doesn’t hurt at all, but acid in iron nitrate/aqua fortis can cause rust/corrosion if it stays in contact with metal unless neutralized with water. Some even make a solution of water and baking soda to neutralize it.