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Vinegar black or how to...

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LaBonte

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stain veg/bark tan leather in a period correct manner....
Folks who read Wick Ellerbe's thread on his PC English Scalper were asking about using this process so here's some more info...

Vinegar black aka vinegaroon goes back to at least the Ancient Romans and is IMO the best black stain for veg/bark tan leather since it NEVER rubs off when done properly....
An original recipe from a 19th Century harness making manual:
VINEGAR BLACK
For giving color to the grain of leather there is no blacking that will at all compare with the well known vinegar black. This may be made in various ways. The simplest, and, without doubt, the best, is to procure shavings from an iron turner (note: some folks get the turnings from brake drums) and cover them with pure cider vinegar; heat up and set aside for a week or two, then heat again and set in a cool place for two weeks; pour off the vinegar, allow it to stand for a few days, and draw off and cork up in bottles. This will keep for a long time, and, while producing a deep black on leather, will not stain the hands.

How I do it most times:
I use de-oiled 4/0 steel wool: dip in acetone, squeeze out the extra and hang to dry - then tear or cut into small pieces. Add one pads worth of the de-oiled steel wool to one quart of white or cider vinegar or wine vinegar (it's the acetic acid in the vinegar that does the work.
I use those plastic coffee "cans" and punch a single small hole in the lid to let of any gas buildup. Let it set in the hot sun which will speed the reaction. I let it set for about two weeks or until there is only a light vinegar odor left and/or the bulk of the steel wool has been dissolved. I also keep a new batch "cooking" all the time so I have a constant supply.
For the deepest black, apply a bath of strong black tea first (this increase the tannins) and let it soak in good, then apply a generous amount of the vinegar black. Let set for about a half hour and then rinse with a mix of baking soda and warm water, about a 1/8 cup soda to a half gallon of water, apply let set for just the count of 10 and then rinse off with clean water. While still damp apply a light coat or two of your favorite saddle oil. Dry while hanging in front of a fan or out in the wind - this will help dissipate any residual vinegar odor. Once dry top coat as normal
Experiment - I test a piece of each new side without using the tea bath or oiling to see how well it takes the blacking, if need be I'll do a second black tea/vinegar mix to darken, then apply the oil which also helps darken.

Instead of steel wool you can use chopped up bailing or fence wire or any other type of low grade steel or iron - the smaller the pieces better since it will dissolve in the vinegar bath faster.
 
Twice boom said:
Good read, thanks.
Just one question . Will it work on wood.
Twice.
Yes it does - much like aqua fortis although with AF I get better chatoyance. For wood if you use rusty iron you will also get more red tones.
It can also be used to ebonize certain woods.

Here's an example in comparison to AF - vinegar (aka ferric acetate) on the left and AF (ferric nitrate) on the right and above.
DSC00126.jpg
 
Have you had any issues with the iron in the mixture eventually cracking and splitting the leather?
 
Depends on the leather - the imports tend to be a drier tannage for instance, but if you re-condtion i.e reoil the leather while still damp (oil LIGHTLY both inside and outside if possible) cracking will be negated..
It dries the leather out no more so than modern commercial solvent based dyes such as Fiebings.
 
I have had disaster with cheap "vegetable tan" leather. The black dye looks great, but the leather utterly self destructs. I am told that one MUST use real oak tanned leather, with no other goo added, otherwise, you get the reaction I have had.
 
Well Stophel since few if any use real oak bark for tanning except small home or specialty tanners it's going to be difficult to find real oak tanned. I've used this process on all kinds of veg/bark leather and have only a few times had the problems you state, and that only with el cheapo Mexican or SA imports or leaving the backing soda rinse on for too long (you get alkali burns. The other thing as noted above is the leather will dry out and get bad if not properly re-conditioned, but as I noted that can happen with regular dyes as well.
I've regularly used Wickett & Craig for many years (over 20) which is IMO tanned with one of the most common bark tanning agents used today which comes from quebracho bark from South America. Other sources still used are: chestnut, oak, redoul, tanoak, hemlock, mangrove, wattle (acacia; see catechu), and myrobalan, but quebracho is far and away the most common material used.

Bark tanning is only one form of veg tanning though and is more commonly called veg atn today since it uses a liquor made from the bark, leaves, etc. of various high tannin plants rather than the solids. Veg tanning using other than bark is as old as man, and one of the finest tannages is English Sumac tanned.
 

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