PLAIN bag for a PLAIN old man ...

[Notchy Bob]

Good job, Bill! I think it looks great. It ought to last, too.

The vinegaroon gives a nice, dark color, and it’s easy to make and use. It was a good choice for that pouch. I’ve experimented with dyeing scraps with vinegaroon, but haven’t used it for a completed project yet. Your pouch turned out really well. I’m inspired!

Notchy Bob

 

[BillinOregon]

Oreclan, finished size is 8 1/2 deep by 6 5/8 wide. The pattern is 9 by 7 1/2.
There is more historical guidance to be found on pages 43-44 of Jim Mullins's essential "Of Sorts for Provincials" as well as the intriguing mention of linen canvas (in addition to leather) shot and ball bags that bears close investigation on my part.

 

[crowbarforge]

Well done. That bag will serve the smoothbore and you quite effective and efficiently for years to come.

 

[Hiverano]

This is a voice talking from 70 years of experimenting with a dozen bags. I was told by relations that carried muzzleloaders in the woods providing meat for the family in the late 1800's. We all know how as kids we never listened to the old folks, we knew better ...

I have had some really beautiful bags (found to be easily spotted in the brush), but they were good looking bags for the guys at rendezvous. Like the Remington drawing with the mountain man and the long fringe, if that guy was for real he never got off the front porch (he would have been "hog tied" with his own clothing).

The plainer the better. When one starts hanging different little items on the outside surface of the bag, you have just put items on that "catch on tree limbs, grass, etc. list".

The plainer the better.

 

[Mad L]

Not having much talent for crafts, I decided to make a very simple hunting pouch truer to 18th-century tradition than 19th, as I have a flint smoothie inbound.
I happened to be watching one of Ben Hoffman's Youtubes and took some of his guidance. I made the pattern out of a manilla folder then cut the front and back halves of the bag from 3-ounce vegetable-tanned cowhide and stitched in a welt to give some strength. The day before, I had started some 0000 steel wool well-washed to remove any oils in a cup or two of white vinegar for a fresh batch of vinegaroon. In less than 24 hours it yielded a usable black-blue stain, and I then rubbed in some mink oil to soften and protect. Added a pewter button for closure. I should see my hemp webbing in the mail today from Turkeyfoot Traders and then I can attach the simple strap. Might consider dying the hemp, although I hear it is not among the easiest of natural fibers to take and hold a dye. The bag will hold a worm and tow, a couple of spare flints, a few appropriate wads, a small pouch of shot and a small pouch of .690 round balls -- not the contents of the Library of Congress!

I wouldn't be too shy to dye or stain the hemp webbing; it's not necessarily the material but the 'dye/stain' combined with what material.
My 'Eastern hunting frock' I made out of 100% hemp canvas and Walnut Dyed it; walnut it says needs no binder and it took,and held, nicely. Now black walnut (also available from Turkey foot - that's where I got mine but now a friend sends me free husks from Indiana) is known for fading and my frock is due for a second dunk...after 6 or 7 years now.

Further, I made a pair drop front trousers from 100% pure Hemp Cloth and died it with natural Indigo. Now Indigo requires a 'binder' which came with my 'kit'. Just mix, dip, and watch the magic happen! And now 4 years old the dye is holding fine on hemp.

Of course it's your bag, and a fine one at that; I think it would look good with natural hemp webbing (if not bleached white) but would look good if stained with black walnut (did I mention Turkey Foot sells it?? *nod, nod, wink, wink*)

 

[BillinOregon]

Mad L, I miss my black walnut stain -- and all those free black walnuts dropping on the sidewalks and parking strips back home in Oregon. Might have to consider ordering same from Turkeyfoot, with the hope that this time it does not take nine days to travel the 800 miles between Columbia, MO, and Sweetwater, TX.

 

[oldschoolhunter55]

Mad L, I miss my black walnut stain -- and all those free black walnuts dropping on the sidewalks and parking strips back home in Oregon. Might have to consider ordering same from Turkeyfoot, with the hope that this time it does not take nine days to travel the 800 miles between Columbia, MO, and Sweetwater, TX.

got a question.how to you stain leather with walnuts.my dad has a walnut tree next to our garden.a friend found me a bag at an estate sell and gave it to me.but inside was a can of old black powder to my surprize.that was a big surprize for me.never had real black powder.he said the powder was probably bad.but according to what i read from here it aint.so when deer season is over in north carlina im going to use it.see how it does. pyrodex is all ive shot.

 

[BillinOregon]

Oldschoolhunter: I have first cooked/boiled up a batch of dye using the walnut hulls, then strained and cooked it down some more. As I recall, I just wiped it on. One time -- and only one time -- I dropped a piece of lovely brain-tanned deer hide in the dye while still hot, and that piece of leather shrank to half it's size or smaller as I watched in horror.

 

[Mad L]

got a question.how to you stain leather with walnuts.my dad has a walnut tree next to our garden.a friend found me a bag at an estate sell and gave it to me.but inside was a can of old black powder to my surprize.that was a big surprize for me.never had real black powder.he said the powder was probably bad.but according to what i read from here it aint.so when deer season is over in north carlina im going to use it.see how it does. pyrodex is all ive shot.

I have some buckskin I died with leftover dye when I did the frock, turned out great, stains darker then the hemp fabric.
First: I would not (just me) put it in while the dye is hot, for fear of 'cooking' the hide and getting hard rawhide.
I used a half hide of German Tan buckskin from Crazycrow.com and just put it in the bath, same batch I had used the day before for the frock. I think (if memory serves) I soaked it for an hour or two, squeezed it out and hung to dry **note: I did all this in an apartment using a plastic kitchen trashcan....careful as you go, the stuf Stains! But a little bleach and the tube was clean and white when done - no angry wife but she watched me like hawk!.

Buckskin will stiffen a bit when dry, just work it back soft again; it will, when done, be a bit 'tougher' as I think the hide grain tightens, or maybe shrinks a little. It made for some nice leggings and stronger then before stained.
I used a full pound and did my frock, the buckskin, and some other cloth, even dipped some pillow ticking to give it a nice aged and dirty look...then my wife insisted I toss the rest or I could have done more!

While the Hemp lightened quite a bit from a single dip...I soaked it for a day or two i think, the buckskin has held a nice dark brown for years now.
I also used a small batch to stail some pine; just wiped it on.

*CAUTION: Wear Gloves and old clothing, outside if you can (but as stated I did all this in an apartment!).
It WILL stain you skin and you can NOT wash it off, just wait for it to wear off...same with Indigo dye.

 

[Mad L]

@oldschoolhunter55
Oh, if you want to know how to prepare if From Husk to Dye

Pull out the nut, lay the husks out in the sun and let dry.
Here in the high desert it takes about one to two weeks.
Don't rinse the husks (you want all the goo). As they are drying just turn then every day, I test them by trying to 'break' between my fingers: if the 'bend' they are not dry, once they 'Snap' they ar ready.
I put the dried husk chips (I have been breaking them until None bend) into a metal pot and start grinding with piece of 2x4 until a powder.
I am sure others might use a grinder, meat grinder, or other means but I just use what I have.
Wear gloves when grinding with a 2x4; I had some nasty blisters the first time! Always learning!!

 

[oldschoolhunter55]

Oldschoolhunter: I have first cooked/boiled up a batch of dye using the walnut hulls, then strained and cooked it down some more. As I recall, I just wiped it on. One time -- and only one time -- I dropped a piece of lovely brain-tanned deer hide in the dye while still hot, and that piece of leather shrank to half it's size or smaller as I watched in horror.

hey friend. thank you so very much.im so glad u clarified not to drop the bag in the hot boiling dye.i would probably fall out seeing my bag shrivel up the size of an acorn. lol. thank you again. going get back to deer hunting. got bored sittin in this tree lol. have a great day

 

[oldschoolhunter55]

@oldschoolhunter55
Oh, if you want to know how to prepare if From Husk to Dye

Pull out the nut, lay the husks out in the sun and let dry.
Here in the high desert it takes about one to two weeks.
Don't rinse the husks (you want all the goo). As they are drying just turn then every day, I test them by trying to 'break' between my fingers: if the 'bend' they are not dry, once they 'Snap' they ar ready.
I put the dried husk chips (I have been breaking them until None bend) into a metal pot and start grinding with piece of 2x4 until a powder.
I am sure others might use a grinder, meat grinder, or other means but I just use what I have.
Wear gloves when grinding with a 2x4; I had some nasty blisters the first time! Always learning!!

ok thank you for sharing this information. yaw guys are so helpful. well going get back to sittin in this tree lol. have a great day

 

[oldschoolhunter55]

I have some buckskin I died with leftover dye when I did the frock, turned out great, stains darker then the hemp fabric.
First: I would not (just me) put it in while the dye is hot, for fear of 'cooking' the hide and getting hard rawhide.
I used a half hide of German Tan buckskin from Crazycrow.com and just put it in the bath, same batch I had used the day before for the frock. I think (if memory serves) I soaked it for an hour or two, squeezed it out and hung to dry **note: I did all this in an apartment using a plastic kitchen trashcan....careful as you go, the stuf Stains! But a little bleach and the tube was clean and white when done - no angry wife but she watched me like hawk!.

Buckskin will stiffen a bit when dry, just work it back soft again; it will, when done, be a bit 'tougher' as I think the hide grain tightens, or maybe shrinks a little. It made for some nice leggings and stronger then before stained.
I used a full pound and did my frock, the buckskin, and some other cloth, even dipped some pillow ticking to give it a nice aged and dirty look...then my wife insisted I toss the rest or I could have done more!

While the Hemp lightened quite a bit from a single dip...I soaked it for a day or two i think, the buckskin has held a nice dark brown for years now.
I also used a small batch to stail some pine; just wiped it on.

*CAUTION: Wear Gloves and old clothing, outside if you can (but as stated I did all this in an apartment!).
It WILL stain you skin and you can NOT wash it off, just wait for it to wear off...same with Indigo dye.

ok thank you very much. since i dont have a wife no more i should be good. have a great day

 

[BillinOregon]

OSH55, MadL is being incredibly patient and meticulous the way he prepares his walnut hulls for making dye.
I was quick and dirty about it, first putting on disposable gloves, (If you get walnut dye on your skin, you will live with that stain for weeks. Ask me how I know this. ) then simply cutting/prying off the wet hulls and adding them to my cooking vessel. Pour in some water and set it on your fire or camp stove and let it come to a boil and simmer for an hour or so. I had access to so many walnuts, many already run over or stepped on, that I never gave a thought to careful preparation and drying so as to "put some by." And now I have none!

 

[Mad L]

OSH55, MadL is being incredibly patient and meticulous the way he prepares his walnut hulls for making dye.
I was quick and dirty about it, first putting on disposable gloves, (If you get walnut dye on your skin, you will live with that stain for weeks. Ask me how I know this. ) then simply cutting/prying off the wet hulls and adding them to my cooking vessel. Pour in some water and set it on your fire or camp stove and let it come to a boil and simmer for an hour or so. I had access to so many walnuts, many already run over or stepped on, that I never gave a thought to careful preparation and drying so as to "put some by." And now I have none!

I always wondered if cooking them fresh would yield better/stronger dye...?
We don't have them out here so I have only had access to dried powder off the Internet (Turkey Foot) and it worked.
Last year my friend in Indiana sent him but he said he 'hosed' them down...??...but they still work.
This year I told him "Package them up, Goo and all!", so he did.

For me however, I dry and package them for later use.
I would image that being able to boil them fresh, with all that wonder Goo would take less to get a good batch of dye....dried it takes about a pound for a large project like my Frock and large sized buckskin (still good enough for some fabric too).

Part of a good 'take' for the color however is letting it 'Set In' once removed from the bath. The color molecules need time to adhere to the fabric so it don't just rinse out (unless wanting a lighter color).
Kinda like hiding that grass-stained pair of Jean's and your mother finds it a week later - "You Let The Stain SET IN and now I have to soak in xxx to get it out!!" (Then smack you over the head an make you promise to Never do that again! - Mom-Love, made us the people we are today ❤ )

 

[waksupi]

Not having much talent for crafts, I decided to make a very simple hunting pouch truer to 18th-century tradition than 19th, as I have a flint smoothie inbound.
I happened to be watching one of Ben Hoffman's Youtubes and took some of his guidance. I made the pattern out of a manilla folder then cut the front and back halves of the bag from 3-ounce vegetable-tanned cowhide and stitched in a welt to give some strength. The day before, I had started some 0000 steel wool well-washed to remove any oils in a cup or two of white vinegar for a fresh batch of vinegaroon. In less than 24 hours it yielded a usable black-blue stain, and I then rubbed in some mink oil to soften and protect. Added a pewter button for closure. I should see my hemp webbing in the mail today from Turkeyfoot Traders and then I can attach the simple strap. Might consider dying the hemp, although I hear it is not among the easiest of natural fibers to take and hold a dye. The bag will hold a worm and tow, a couple of spare flints, a few appropriate wads, a small pouch of shot and a small pouch of .690 round balls -- not the contents of the Library of Congress!

You nailed the early style bag well. Much better than the trash I see offered for sale by many.

 

[Ohio Rusty]

I dye my hemp straps with walnut hull dye to remove the 'whiteness' of the raw hemp strap. The strap on the left is undyed and the three straps on the right have all been dyed with walnuts. I like how the color turns out and is a nice contrast with brown leather attachments and bags,
Ohio Rusty ><>

 

[Dismount]

Not having much talent for crafts, I decided to make a very simple hunting pouch truer to 18th-century tradition than 19th, as I have a flint smoothie inbound.
I happened to be watching one of Ben Hoffman's Youtubes and took some of his guidance. I made the pattern out of a manilla folder then cut the front and back halves of the bag from 3-ounce vegetable-tanned cowhide and stitched in a welt to give some strength. The day before, I had started some 0000 steel wool well-washed to remove any oils in a cup or two of white vinegar for a fresh batch of vinegaroon. In less than 24 hours it yielded a usable black-blue stain, and I then rubbed in some mink oil to soften and protect. Added a pewter button for closure. I should see my hemp webbing in the mail today from Turkeyfoot Traders and then I can attach the simple strap. Might consider dying the hemp, although I hear it is not among the easiest of natural fibers to take and hold a dye. The bag will hold a worm and tow, a couple of spare flints, a few appropriate wads, a small pouch of shot and a small pouch of .690 round balls -- not the contents of the Library of Congress!

i ALWAYS PUT SOMETHING IN THE HINGE AREA FOR STIFFNESS TO RETAIN ITS SHAPE WHILE DIGGING IN THE BAG, QUITE SATISFIYING TO MAKE YOUR OWN BAGS

 

[azmntman]

I love the color. Well done.

 

[Mad L]

A lot can be said for natural (organic) dyes. They can be fun, a learning experiance, and really enhance leather and textile crafts more so then modern dye.
A good source is listed below and they don't just sell the ingredients but have information that walks you through the process, explain which ones require a Binder for the color to take AND sell the required materials/chemicals.

https://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/...VBxV0-ozGz9PN3qH3bzjATPRit2Iufc4aAgVUEALw_wcB