Ah, very clever!Yessir I do. I make them from #14 sheet metal screws for Dragoons/Walkers and #12 sheet metal screws for Army's/Navy's.
You cut the threaded shaft off leaving the head for use as the spacer. Using a Philips head bit in a drill motor and a bench belt sander, I sand the "flat" side down checking often for "clearance". When the endshake measures around. 005" with the wedge driven in (it will feel solid) I stop and "anchor" ( glue/ affix) the spacer with JB.
I also start a hole on both sides right where the transition starts for the "cone" of the bottom of the arbor hole ( accessed through the wedge slot in the barrel assy.) as an anchor for the install.
Then, I dress the end of the arbor down to get my .0025" - .003" endshake (wedge driven in). You'll have that clearance from then on!
* If you do it this way, you'll actually open the width of the slot slightly. To compensate for this, I install a 1/4" X 28 smooth set screw in the end of the arbor that reaches into the wedge slot. This will be the forward bearing surface for the wedge instead of the actual slot in the arbor ( NOT an adjustable arbor mechanism!!!!) It should NEVER extend past the end of the arbor!!!! (It will interfere with the spacer you just installed!!)). This WILL allow an adjustable WEDGE DEPTH positioning mechanism!
** If you don't want the above setup, you can keep dressing the spacer itself until you get to your endshake spec.
You use a button head screw and a phillips! Do you run the drill when sanding it via the belt, and if so, how do you ensure it’s perpendicular?
I did a wax casting of the end of my arbor bore and found that it was dead conical, which is why my intuition was to machine a shallow cone from stock and cut it to length, but your solution is certainly more pragmatic than that.
I’ll be frank, I’ve no idea why you start holes on either side of the spacer—is this to allow the JB weld to ooze up and grip it?
To wit, have you ever considered the use of green locktite (the kind for slip-fits) to secure the arbor shim instead of JB Weld? It’s as long-lived but considerably easier to apply and remove, and in my experience provides a very secure bond.