TVM Fowler Kit build

[Kamu]

Here is the first barrel tennon before the barrel turns round

Space at front of the muzzle..

 

[Black Hand]

From the looks of it, your lugs are holding up the barrel and need to be sunk deeper. If you have an extra lug, you can use it as a gauge for how much wood you need to remove. Also, round the corners of the tabs just a little and sink the barrel downwards at EACH tab rather than one at a time.

 

[Kamu]

Thanks black hand for the help

 

[Black Hand]

Keep in mind, this is advice at a distance given from minimal information. Take your time, remembering it is easy to take wood/metal away but difficult to put back...

 

[Micah Clark]

TVM inlets their barrels pretty, well usually because they pre-allign the touchhole and the lock and bed the breech plug. They do a lot of the critical things in that regard. They make good kits. . .but leave more wood to shape and remove than others, but they do a good job of the operational essentials such as trigger setting, barrel inlet and lock alignment.

I built their Late Lancaster as my first build two years ago. I am building a Chambers kit now . . . it has it's pluses too for sure, but it has not diminished my respect for TVM. That being said, I owe everything to my coach who had built many kits before.

 

[akapennypincher]

Well it is your first build, and a learning experience. Not like medical school were:

Step One is watching.

Step Two is do doing.

Step Three is teaching other.

Than you graduate, and PRACTICE MEDICINE.

 

[Kamu]

Well I'm done with it...

 

[Black Hand]

You may wish to further define the lock panels. They should be distinct - currently, the front of the lock panel doesn't exist and there is too much wood remaining at the rear....

 

[Davemuzz]

This, from another post on the forum. This is pretty plain, but it gives you the idea of what Black Hand's post is discussing:

 

[Kamu]

I could spend months working on this gun.. I know that you shouldn't have a time line when putting a gun together but I really wanted to turkey hunt with it... So I got it to a point that I was happy with it and that it could be carried in the woods... I might go back a reengage it again during the summer...

 

[Black Hand]

The counterpoint is that defining the lock panels would have taken about an hour. Now will require far more work because the gun will need the finish & stain removed, the panels shaped, sanded, re-stained and refinished.

1 hour vs 10-15 hours (or more)...

 

[Kamu]

Thanks for the INFO!!!!!!

 

[Micah Clark]

I'm a big fan of TVM . . . my first build was their late lancaster kit . . . I'm only on my second now, with Jim Chambers, but I have nothing but good to say about TVM . . .

However, they should really do more shaping on the front lock panel . . . I did look at a pic of mine and there was a pencil guide line to follow, so no one is to blame but us rookies. . .

You have a great gun . . . TVM makes sure of this with their lock inletting, trigger inletting barrel and touch hole. . they do the work that makes sure it goes boom 3 times . . . but I agree that your rifle deserves work on that front panel. You've got the ability, as seen in your other posts, so whenever you get back to that, I think you'll be pleased with how much that changes the entire appearance of the rifle in that area.

I am not a pro, and I had the help of a coach that made all the difference, but I found that a round chain saw file worked best for me in shaping the lock panels. . . he had a few other methods, but for a novice like me, that was easiest.

 

[Kamu]

I'll get back after it after turkey season.... Like you said rookies!!!!!!!!