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touchhole liners

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hardwood

32 Cal.
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so upon advice from many, i ordereda couple rmc touchhole liners for my lyman gpr. they are model #ml083.

i'm a bit confused now.

the original lyman liner won't allow a 1/16th" bit pass through, and the rmc's hole is smaller. i've read someone else had bought an rmc that would allow a 1/16th" bit to pass through loosely. did i get the right one? do i need to drill out the rmc liner?
 
I installed the RMC liner in my GPR just the way they came, and haven't had a single ignition problem since. That being said, I find touch hole liners to be a general pain in the a$$, and I really wish my guns didn't have them. I just don't see a purpose for them, other than when an original, drilled touch hole might need replaced, due to excessive wear. Personally, I'd just rather have a touch hole drilled directly into my barrel. :v
 
I had a lot of flash in the pan with the original liner that came with my Lyman GPR. I drilled it to 1/16th inch and coned it. It seemed to help some, but still had problems. I then drilled it to 5/64th inch and coned both inside and outside the liner. That did the trick!. I read so much good things about the RMC liners here, so I ordered one. I installed it as is and it works great also. I never checked the touch hole size. If it aint broke, don't fix it! I believe the RMC has a wider opening on the inside, allowing more powder closer to the touch hole. I think the allen wrench opening acts like a deep cone, focusing more of the flash to the touch hole. Go ahead and try the RMC as is. If you are noy happy with it, you can always drill the touch hole bigger.
 
How can you have a problem with a touch hole liner, that you wished you never had one? You put it in, you make sure you have the touch hole to a size that give consistent ignition and forget about it. I have NEVER had a problem with a liner, but I have wore one out. I am not even going to bother to look at how many liners on guns I have. Some are original(like older than you and your Dad put together) as far as I know and some are new. :idunno: Everyone has experiences that may or may not be shared by others. For me, I will have a vent liner as my personal experience without one was poor. :surrender:
 
I just don't like them. Mine are all hard to take out, and I do take them out, because I notice fouling around the threads all the time.
 
Yes, RMC part # ML083 is the correct size for a Lyman GPR.

The outside body of the liner has metric M6 x .75 thread size which is what the hole in the barrel is threaded for. It screws in with the enclosed 1/8" alan (hex) wrench.

Be sure to use anti seize compound on the liner threads as the liner is stainless steel which can cause the part to get seized in the barrel by galvanic corrosion if left for a long time.
I use a anti seize that comes in a push up stick, its an accessory made by CVA. It seems to be a drier anti seize like lip stick.

The flash hole in the RMC liner is 1.5mm which will just allow a #53 drill to slide into the hole.
A #53 drill is 0.059" and of course a 1/16" drill is 0.0625" so you got a little room to drill out it you find you need to.

I have not drilled out this new RMC liner to a larger size because I haven't had a flash in the pan miss fire yet and I'm using 4fg in the pan and 2fg in the barrel.

The back or inside of this liner is bored deep and approximately 1/8" wide.
The out side or pan side has the deep hex socket, both holes I believe act like a coned liner.

What I see the great utility of a removable liner is in the ability to quickly remove the barrel from stock and take out the liner then pour in 30 plus grains of power behind a dry ball and reinstall the liner an fire out the ball. I'm getting very fast at doing this fix now. :doh:
 
i'm a bit confused now.

All I can say is drill the liner to .070. If others are having success with whatever they are using, more power to'em. But I think, if they are brutally honest, or at least in the future they are/will experience issues with a GPR. The liner is not the only problem with a GPR. The cock is bad but it does work. The trigger is bad but it does work. The liner is horrible but it does work. Depending on your definition of acceptable or work. I do NOT accept any mis-fires, period! I do NOT like fiddling with the touch hole with picks and swabs and the such either.
So you may choose to do whatever but you want. It's your gun but you can turn it into a very nice, very reliable, very accurate gun that doesn't require fiddling with after every shot!
My advise is drill and stick with GOES 3F in the bore and GOEX 4F in the pan.
When you want to tackle the other things come back and just ask. :grin:
 
thanks for all the help guys.

i'll likely drill the liner out before my next range trip. i did use antisieze on the threads when i installed it.

ebiggs, what do i need to know about the cock and the trigger? are there ways to improve them, or is it a replacement job? i will say that i'm not super thrilled with the set trigger, but then, i have no experience with set triggers and don't expect it to be as nice as some of my centerfire triggers.

cheers fellas!
 
”¦ are there ways to improve them ”¦

In a word, no! :(
You can put an extra very thick piece of leather wrap under the flint to raise it higher in the cock jaws. But the real fix is replacement with a new style TC cock.

”¦ or is it a replacement job? ”¦

Also, in a word, yes! :(
The trigger requires the Davis Deerslayer. :thumbsup:
There is no band-aid fix for it.
 
I understand BigDogg, that is why every time I take my vehicles for a drive, I take off the lug nuts, clean and lube them too and put them back on. :stir: Some think this is over kill, but not to me. :doh: Sorry, I just can't help myself on this. I take vents out as often as the platinum vents are removed, which is never, except to replace.
 
That's nothing! I completely disassemble (except welded parts) the vehicle, clean and reassemble. I drive about once every two years :grin: . :rotf:
 
It is quite possible to get very good ignition with a plain hole of the proper size, or one coned on the inside, a hole generally larger than 1/16 from my experience. Many are joining the no liner movemnent with good results of late which also helps put a gun a step closer to what the origionals were like, as with most grades of American guns liners were a rarity unless as a repair. The wide usage of liner now is likley due to all the reconverted guns back to flintlock in the 20th century, good luck and it is usually seen as prudent to start with a # size or two above 1/16 and work your way up to what size works the best for you.
 
Dave K said:
I understand BigDogg, that is why every time I take my vehicles for a drive, I take off the lug nuts, clean and lube them too and put them back on. :stir: Some think this is over kill, but not to me. :doh: Sorry, I just can't help myself on this. I take vents out as often as the platinum vents are removed, which is never, except to replace.

Just offering up my own thoughts to the OP. Take it, or leave it, no skin off my nose either way.
:shake:
 
I'm with you on this no liner business.
For me, touch hole liners build up with gunk when I shoot, and I can't bend my cleaning rod 90 degrees to get rid of it. That leads to ignition problems. So, more scraping and cleaning through the touch hole. Of course this all happens in the blazing sun at the range!
I build my own guns and just drill a .080" hole.
I tried 1/16, but it seemed a bit fussy. So I thought about the math. With a hole that doesn't look much bigger, I got 64% more surface area for the fire to pass through. And it's much easier to clean.
All that being said, I always place the hole so the next guy who owns it can put in a liner if he wants. Might as well think ahead.

I hope that's all still on topic!
 
“”¦ I build my own guns and just drill a .080" hole ...”

I don't agree with hardy anything you said but if a .080 hole doesn't set it off nothing will! :shocked2: :hmm:
 
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