Touch hole diameter.

[NorthFork]

Started work on my matchlock. It comes from Military Heritage without the touch hole drilled. Is it safe to assume that 1/16" is a good starting point just like with flintlocks? Or do I need to go larger? I have a good set of fractional and numbered bits to choose from. Thanks.

 

[FlinterNick]

Started work on my matchlock. It comes from Military Heritage without the touch hole drilled. Is it safe to assume that 1/16" is a good starting point just like with flintlocks? Or do I need to go larger? I have a good set of fractional and numbered bits to choose from. Thanks.

All mine are 1/16, i cone the inside of the touch hole with a milling bit. So, doesn’t need to be larger.

 

[NorthFork]

All mine are 1/16, i cone the inside of the touch hole with a milling bit. So, doesn’t need to be larger.

Thanks for the info. I also had considered slightly coning the exterior.

 

[russellshaffer]

You can always make it larger later.

 

[FlinterNick]

Thanks for the info. I also had considered slightly coning the exterior.

I use these milling bits.

Thanks for the info. I also had considered slightly coning the exterior.

 

[tenngun]

Flinter not match and I don’t know if that would make a difference but I like 5/64, all my guns are fitted with liners save one, and note the slower go

 

[FlinterNick]

Flinter not match and I don’t know if that would make a difference but I like 5/64, all my guns are fitted with liners save one, and note the slower go

I have some that i drill out a little larger to 5/64, Prussian muskets were almost 1/8 - 3/16’s.

I like to keep my small, and position them a little lower, i call it the french method. A lot of early charleville’s had touchholes drilled small and low.

Its really just personal preference.

As long as there just one touch hole, not two or three lol.

Like this one.

 

[oldwood]

1/16 " is good for touch hole

 

[Rob M.]

Ive used 5/64 for many years but I got some odd bits and have been drilling mine .076 lately . Either is good .

 

[Crown_Pointer]

I use these milling bits.

Where do you get those?

 

[FlinterNick]

Where do you get those?

Custom tool by a machinist.

 

[Fitzhugh Williams]

I start with 1/16 and go up from there as necessary to get good ignition. I have never had to go past .79.

 

[flatcreek]

Think it depends on the powder your using. I don't want the powder priming the pan, I want it pilled against the hole trying to get out. For me that's about .060 for 2f and .050 3f. You can always make it bigger, smaller is a problem.
Phil

 

[Sidney Smith]

I just used a leftover touch hole liner I had from a flintlock build. It's already coned on the inside. I don't think liners were period correct in matchlocks, but I'm not concerned . I'm not living in the 16th century, and have noone to impress with historical accuracy. Besides nobody will notice anyway.

 

[Billy-by-gosh]

I use the smaller .050 touchhole for bores in the 30-40 calibers to limit velocity & pressure loss. 40-60 caliber get 1/16th toucholes, and larger bores get 5/64 (or if a straight channel in a thick heavy breech I might go up to 3/32")

 

[Commodore Swab]

Started work on my matchlock. It comes from Military Heritage without the touch hole drilled. Is it safe to assume that 1/16" is a good starting point just like with flintlocks? Or do I need to go larger? I have a good set of fractional and numbered bits to choose from. Thanks.

With Indian built guns I have found if you have to go in at an angle 5/64 works very well. Occasionally the bit will break coming thru.

 

[sdfdgfh]

Its just a hole. A 1/16" hole. No liner. Never tried a liner. Don't see a need to. Wrestled with a few folks back on another post on the period correctness of a stainless steel touch hole liner. To each his own. I don't mind the millisecond longer delay by not using a liner.

 

[Fitzhugh Williams]

Unless you damage a touch hole (like I did), then you have to use a liner. Otherwise, no.