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T/C Hawken Hammer Problem

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Sage1

32 Cal
Joined
Mar 2, 2024
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Location
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Shot the T/C Hawken yesterday and every few shots the hammer would bounce to half cock after being fired.
I’ll pull the lock today and check the screws on the pressure plate. Looking for other possibilities.
Couple more questions:
If the screws are loose should blue Loctite be used?
What are the oil points in the lock, everywhere there’s movement?
Should Balistiol be used to lube clean the lock or other product?
Online diagram of T/C Lock Schematic ?

Thank You
 
I don't know if your gun is new or if you have had it for a while, back in the day people would drill out the nipple thinking that this would make the flame hotter. This often resulted in hammer kick back.
I’ll replace it. Looking into what a good replacement would be. The ones sold as “hot” I guessed had a larger channel but that must be incorrect.
 
I’ll replace it. Looking into what a good replacement would be. The ones sold as “hot” I guessed had a larger channel but that must be incorrect.
The flash channel in the nipple of the "hot" ones is designed to have smooth flow of the heat of the percussion cap ignition through the flash channel. The hole is not larger. They are designed to get more heat to a charge of the substitute powders. Woks good for black powder too.
 
All good answers above. If it is an inconsistent occurrence, was wondering were the caps you were using from the same tin? Just a thought, maybe some inconsistent pressures from your caps.
 
The nipple is definitely shot out. All nipples eventually erode. How long they last depends on what they are made of, the amount of powder loaded and the weight of the projectile. All three of those factors influence the amount of pressure created and therefore the rate of erosion. TC locks are more susceptible because their main springs are not as strong.

As the nipple erodes it can effect accuracy.

When in my "conical period" I shot 370 grain maxi balls over 100 grains of 2f. Nipples could burn out in as few as 30 shots.
 
The nipple is definitely shot out. All nipples eventually erode. How long they last depends on what they are made of, the amount of powder loaded and the weight of the projectile. All three of those factors influence the amount of pressure created and therefore the rate of erosion. TC locks are more susceptible because their main springs are not as strong.

As the nipple erodes it can effect accuracy.

When in my "conical period" I shot 370 grain maxi balls over 100 grains of 2f. Nipples could burn out in as few as 30 shots.
Wow. Talk about a weak link. I guess I never thought of it in such depth. I always inspect for "mushrooming" when cleaning. Me thinks I will order a few new nipples on my next TOTW order just to have them on hand. I have 4 TC side locks. After reading your post Cruiser I may want to think about changing the one on my New Englander 12 gauge yearly.
 
Bouncing to half cock is the early warning system for an oversized nipple flash hole as mentioned. Bouncing to full cock is like the red line on your tachometer except your rifle can bite you. Got there myself once and had read enough here that I felt foolish and fortunate at the same time. Foolish for missing the signs. Fortunate for not being injured by flying hammer syndrome and not destroying a lock.
Replaced nipple and problem solved. SW
 
Shot the T/C Hawken yesterday and every few shots the hammer would bounce to half cock after being fired.
I’ll pull the lock today and check the screws on the pressure plate. Looking for other possibilities.
Couple more questions:
If the screws are loose should blue Loctite be used?
What are the oil points in the lock, everywhere there’s movement?
Should Balistiol be used to lube clean the lock or other product?
Online diagram of T/C Lock Schematic ?

Thank You
I had this happen. Changed the nipple. Problem solved.
 
I was told to start with replacing the nipple. If too much gas comes back through you will get hammer bounce back.
To hot of a powder charge. I had this happen to me took a bit to figure this out this was back in 74 or so . 100 gr was to much powder went back to 80 gr guess what . Better groups ,better on kick better No more hammer popping back . The big thing was when I shot a 45 bullet with a blank sabot with 100 gr never went thru a 8 inch header tree 80 gr went thru
 
didn't see anyone mention that when you take that lock out and clean it, don't farmer torque the cross screws that go through the stock and into the plate. just snug. lightly snug, did i mention not torqued?
them that crank those screws down with an impact wrench supply the rest of us with rifle parts when the stock cracks directly through the plate screw from over tightening.
 
Shot the T/C Hawken yesterday and every few shots the hammer would bounce to half cock after being fired.
I’ll pull the lock today and check the screws on the pressure plate. Looking for other possibilities.
Couple more questions:
If the screws are loose should blue Loctite be used?
What are the oil points in the lock, everywhere there’s movement?
Should Balistiol be used to lube clean the lock or other product?
Online diagram of T/C Lock Schematic ?

Thank You
Look at the cone. Once the orifice has enlarged to a certain point it will blow back more and more often. Heavier charges will exacerbate this condition but a new Ampco nipple will give positive ignition and do so over many hundreds of full power (100-120gr.) shots. Great reminder to use safety glasses.
 

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