Steel Shot in a Smoothbore?

[Nwtradegunner]

I like to hunt waterfowl with my Tradegun or Fowler. Now; up here in Canada and assuming in USA lead shot is a no no. I saw an article in Muzzleloader magazine a long long time ago about this issue and there was a solution but I couldn’t find the article ever again. From what I remember was that you pick a load; say 1 1/2 ounces of lead shot for a 12 Guage load. Using a Lyman scoop set at 1 1/2 ounce weigh the lead shot and write that number down. Then on your scale weigh out the same number with steel shot. The loading procedure would be using those special wads for loading modern steel shot shells. They are longer, and do not have fully open slits in them; so your smoothbore barrel will not get scratched or scored up. Using the scoop set at 1 1/2 scoop; scoop up your black powder and pour it into your barrel. Then push down a card wad, then push down the special steel shot wad. Then pour in your steel shot equivalent. Depending on what load you’re using, check; beforehand how the steel shot fits in that wad. If it’s overflowing; reduce your shot charge and recalculate. If it’s shy by say 1/4”; use a filler wad or filler material so the shot is level with the top of the wad. Then push in a card wad. Prime or cap your smoothbore and let ‘er rip! You’ll need 2 scoops or keep adjusting one to carry out this procedure. Does this make sense to any of you? What’s your solution or input?

 

[hanshi]

Steel shot shouldn't cause a problem if the bore is chromed.

 

[Nwtradegunner]

Steel shot shouldn't cause a problem if the bore is chromed.

The problem is that both smoothbore do not have chromed barrels. One being a NWTradegun from Caywood, and the other being a 12 ga. Fowler from a Track kit/parts.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Don't do it.

 

[Nwtradegunner]

The only other thing I thought of was just to reduce the chance of the full length of the steel shot wad from melting and adhering to the barrel was to just cut it, so just the shot cup was being used. That way you could use a fiber wad instead.

 

[Elgatodeacero]

just use bismuth it works well.

https://www.rotometals.com/the-original-bismuth-shot-alloy-for-reloading-shells-1-pound-bag-made-in-usa/

steel shot will harm your barrel, and worse, due to its low density and the limited ballistic potential of black powder or subs, it cannot be driven fast enough for reasonable killing power on waterfowl.

 

[Nwtradegunner]

just use bismuth it works well.

https://www.rotometals.com/the-original-bismuth-shot-alloy-for-reloading-shells-1-pound-bag-made-in-usa/

steel shot will harm your barrel, and worse, due to its low density and the limited ballistic potential of black powder or subs, it cannot be driven fast enough for reasonable killing power on waterfowl.

That makes sense! I’ll have to check with a local supplier to see how much it is. What’s it cost down in the USA? I just checked; up here it’s $255 for 7 pounds of it.

 

[Old Grunt]

I just picked some up from Midway,it was on sale,I believe it worked out to between $17.00-$18.00 a lb.

 

[Britsmoothy]

How many shots do you need?
You could go and buy some bismuth cartridges or tungsten matrix cartridges and remove the shot.

 

[Nwtradegunner]

How many shots do you need?
You could go and buy some bismuth cartridges or tungsten matrix cartridges and remove the shot.

True! There’s a guy up here in the Southern part of the province that sells it for $36.00 a pound. A bit steep I’d say. I’ll check out the shells. Thanks!

 

[x_count]

Ballistic Products is usually the cheapest place to find bismuth, and their SpheroBismuth is tin coated and very consistently round.
Bismuth-ballisticproducts.com

 

[Nwtradegunner]

Ballistic Products is usually the cheapest place to find bismuth, and their SpheroBismuth is tin coated and very consistently round.
Bismuth-ballisticproducts.com

 

[Jim Seaman]

I like to hunt waterfowl with my Tradegun or Fowler. Now; up here in Canada and assuming in USA lead shot is a no no. I saw an article in Muzzleloader magazine a long long time ago about this issue and there was a solution but I couldn’t find the article ever again. From what I remember was that you pick a load; say 1 1/2 ounces of lead shot for a 12 Guage load. Using a Lyman scoop set at 1 1/2 ounce weigh the lead shot and write that number down. Then on your scale weigh out the same number with steel shot. The loading procedure would be using those special wads for loading modern steel shot shells. They are longer, and do not have fully open slits in them; so your smoothbore barrel will not get scratched or scored up. Using the scoop set at 1 1/2 scoop; scoop up your black powder and pour it into your barrel. Then push down a card wad, then push down the special steel shot wad. Then pour in your steel shot equivalent. Depending on what load you’re using, check; beforehand how the steel shot fits in that wad. If it’s overflowing; reduce your shot charge and recalculate. If it’s shy by say 1/4”; use a filler wad or filler material so the shot is level with the top of the wad. Then push in a card wad. Prime or cap your smoothbore and let ‘er rip! You’ll need 2 scoops or keep adjusting one to carry out this procedure. Does this make sense to any of you? What’s your solution or input?

Makes sense to me.

 

[Historian]

Check out this link.
https://www.ballisticproducts.com/BSR-Polished-Bismuth-Shot-4-7-bag/productinfo/BSR04/

7 pounds at 89.99 plus shipping. They have other sizes too. They are close to the Canadian border. Try them first.