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Smoothbore Paper Cartidges

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Since everything is dry inside the cartridge I find that the loose powder does not adhere or filter around the ball. When the cartridge is emptied into the barrel I find that all the powder- a measured 80 grains- goes down the barrel. I must note that the cartridge paper is quite a tight or snug to the ball.

When I my vision was better I had no trouble hitting woodswalk/trailwalk targets- bear or deer sized targets -out to 120 yards.

I regularly hit a 6 foot frying pan target at 180 yards on the woodswalk course of fire at my former muzzle loading club.

This load allowed me to win the smoothbore competition at the Old Northwest Territory Rondezvous in 1996.
 
Tower75 said:
Is that the "Jeff Tanner" who's on my side of the pond? If so, bloody hell, his name gets around
You'll find that there are many on these forums from the West side of the pond who grace the good Mr. Tanner with our custom.

Regards,
Joel
 
I have not tried this with a lead ball, but I think it will work. Instead of just crimping over the end of the paper tube, I crimp it over (in three sections, center, right, left)then pull the dowel back 1/8 of an inch and then crimp the edges of the tube into the center, forming a shotgun shell type crimp to seal the end of the tube. Very strong seal, which I think will hold a ball, but you would have to try a couple to know.
 
Here's an update: this afternoon, after a rainy modern service rifle match, several shooters and I tried out a Pedersoli Brown Bess which I bought used a few years ago. I made 8 paper cartridges as directed in this thread, with .715 ball and Wall Street Journal newsprint. All loaded seamlessly even though the day was very damp, and all fired. Can't say if they were accurate since we were just blasting away. But the cartridges work. Photos will follow! Thanks for the coaching!
 
A rainy weekend means I have time to roll these for the Bess. Question: what does dipping the ball portion in beeswax do for the cartridge? Thanks.
 
Serves as general lubricant, and helps keep fouling soft. You won't get far without it.

Straight Beeswax is too much; you need to blend it with some kind of clean cooking type oil or similar. I often use Castor Oil, but other high grade cooking oils work as well....

Eric
 
BillinOregon said:
Pete: Try using pages from the Times of London. You might get better groups.






:rotf:

So if I understand correctly - If my hits are off a little to the left I should use pages from The National Review ?

Unfortunately my shots are grouping too low so I think I need to lower my target.
 
I have a NSW Officers Fusil which is pretty much the same as a 1750s Artillery Model B. Bess. I make French type cartridges which do not use string. 20lb. cotton paper cut to pattern, 80 gr. double F and a 0.648 round ball. I also lube the ball end of the cartridge. Originally I tried making the English type cartdridge but it was just to much work.
 
I dont tie above the ball,only between powder and ball.I twist the paper to a point above the ball,Then fold and glue the tail.I never rip em with my teeth i just tear it off with my fingers and I also prime from a horn.
 
As I think about it, I should have my surgical residents tie English-style cartridges for me as part of their training. They would get good practice with their knot tying and with handling tissue gently (tying down tight without lifting up the cartridge or tearing the paper). Their technical skills would improve, and I would have a nice little munitions factory feeding my weekend pastimes! Heck, they might even get a history lesson out of the deal.
 

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