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HamptonBogs45

32 Cal
Joined
Jan 13, 2023
Messages
18
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Location
United states
Hi everyone I’m new here. Just getting into reenacting and this is my first flintlock. I’ve been shooting my whole life but haven’t shot everything. this marries local history and shooting together.
My first attempt at making paper cartridges for my veteran arms 1766 Charleville/1795 springfield. The .648 round balls are a little tight but accurate if I don’t flinch. Which I pulled everything low left. The delay ill have to get used to. I’m not a bad shot I’ve shot high power matches and I shoot black powder cartridge rifle matches out to 600 yards because that’s the furthest range I’ve been to so far. I plan to shoot further in the future I’m just not used to such a delay. I’ll get the hang of it eventually. I think I need to try some thinner paper or some .62 caliber round balls in the cartridges. These particular muskets have .68 caliber not a true .69 barrel I’ve found out so my 69 caliber cleaning patch jag doesn’t fit. I may take it down so I can use it on this musket. The cartridges I shot were between 120-150grs. Fire remember my notes correctly Charleville‘s service charge was between 150gr and 180gr. I also loaded 80-100gr with flax tow as wading. I have lubed pillow ticking to try in the future as well. Target photo is 60 yards btw. Powder is schutzen 2f.
 

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@HamptonBogs45, we want you to have as enjoyable an experience as possible. To that end, we have to figure out how to speed up the ignition. You are using Scheutzen FF powder. That's a good start with good powder. The Scheutzen powder is a more energetic sporting grade of powder than the lowest bid military grade powder that required a load of 150 grains. I use about 100 grains of powder in my Bess and that should be adequate for your Charleville.

The first step in speeding ignition is removing all the manufacturing grease and oils from the barrel and touch hole. And, of course, all the burnt grease and fouling residue has to be removed. A good rinse of rubbibg alsohol, denatured alcohol or brake cleaner will do. You should have a reasonable sized touch hole of at least 1/16" and more probably 5/64". There may be machining burrs at entry of the touch hole to the bore. They should be removed. I like to very lightly put a small chamfer at the entry of the touch hole. You seem to be getting good sparks to the pan. Adjust the flint to scrape a lot of sparks to the pan. While 2F powder will be good for pan powder, 3F is a little faster and 85 to 90 grains of 3F is a good powder charge. Try a half filled pan. Often less powder in the pan gives faster ignition than a full pan. A truth I have observed with shooting a new flintlock is that there is a delay. You can reload rhe gun, hand it to let someone else shoot it, and there will be no delay. Just one of the mysteries of shooting flintlocks.

Do take the lock out and apart to polish all the parts that rub together. Look to see if any lock parts are rubbing in the lock mortise. Relieve any signs of interference. Put it back together and go shooting.
 
@HamptonBogs45, we want you to have as enjoyable an experience as possible. To that end, we have to figure out how to speed up the ignition. You are using Scheutzen FF powder. That's a good start with good powder. The Scheutzen powder is a more energetic sporting grade of powder than the lowest bid military grade powder that required a load of 150 grains. I use about 100 grains of powder in my Bess and that should be adequate for your Charleville.

The first step in speeding ignition is removing all the manufacturing grease and oils from the barrel and touch hole. And, of course, all the burnt grease and fouling residue has to be removed. A good rinse of rubbibg alsohol, denatured alcohol or brake cleaner will do. You should have a reasonable sized touch hole of at least 1/16" and more probably 5/64". There may be machining burrs at entry of the touch hole to the bore. They should be removed. I like to very lightly put a small chamfer at the entry of the touch hole. You seem to be getting good sparks to the pan. Adjust the flint to scrape a lot of sparks to the pan. While 2F powder will be good for pan powder, 3F is a little faster and 85 to 90 grains of 3F is a good powder charge. Try a half filled pan. Often less powder in the pan gives faster ignition than a full pan. A truth I have observed with shooting a new flintlock is that there is a delay. You can reload rhe gun, hand it to let someone else shoot it, and there will be no delay. Just one of the mysteries of shooting flintlocks.

Do take the lock out and apart to polish all the parts that rub together. Look to see if any lock parts are rubbing in the lock mortise. Relieve any signs of interference. Put it back together and go shooting.
Here is a video of my ignition. I primed from a small flask here because it’s loaded with tow not a paper cartridge.

 
Last edited:
@HamptonBogs45, we want you to have as enjoyable an experience as possible. To that end, we have to figure out how to speed up the ignition. You are using Scheutzen FF powder. That's a good start with good powder. The Scheutzen powder is a more energetic sporting grade of powder than the lowest bid military grade powder that required a load of 150 grains. I use about 100 grains of powder in my Bess and that should be adequate for your Charleville.

The first step in speeding ignition is removing all the manufacturing grease and oils from the barrel and touch hole. And, of course, all the burnt grease and fouling residue has to be removed. A good rinse of rubbibg alsohol, denatured alcohol or brake cleaner will do. You should have a reasonable sized touch hole of at least 1/16" and more probably 5/64". There may be machining burrs at entry of the touch hole to the bore. They should be removed. I like to very lightly put a small chamfer at the entry of the touch hole. You seem to be getting good sparks to the pan. Adjust the flint to scrape a lot of sparks to the pan. While 2F powder will be good for pan powder, 3F is a little faster and 85 to 90 grains of 3F is a good powder charge. Try a half filled pan. Often less powder in the pan gives faster ignition than a full pan. A truth I have observed with shooting a new flintlock is that there is a delay. You can reload rhe gun, hand it to let someone else shoot it, and there will be no delay. Just one of the mysteries of shooting flintlocks.

Do take the lock out and apart to polish all the parts that rub together. Look to see if any lock parts are rubbing in the lock mortise. Relieve any signs of interference. Put it back together and go shooting.
The manufacturer didn’t take the plug out when drilling the touch hole so it’s at an angle going forward to avoid the plug. Here’s the lock internals.
 

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Oh, and when loading paper cartridges, the powder is poured from the paper cartridge. The remaining paper is used as a wad between powder and ball. You do not want the paper wrap to be a barrier between the flash in the pan and the main charge.
 
I would add, standard military practice was to prime the pan from the cartridge. They had to get shots off as fast as possible. You don’t.
So prime from a horn or flask after loading and pointed in a safe direction. In that case you can use 3f to prime and your shot will be faster.
I understand French load called for powder to be dumped from the cartridge then inverted, so the paper was loaded on top.
I haven’t read this in an actual history and may be all wet here.
Not always done in the old days but the ball part of the cartridge can be dipped in bees wax. I find this helps loading.
 
Yes, Im aware of the proper procedures. I have been watching videos and have a facsimile copy of steuben’s blue book for the proper technique in movements.
 
The ball can be dipped in melted bee's wax and oil. This lubricates the bore and will push some fouling down the bore.

Yes, the military practice of the day was to prime the pan from the cartridge. Then, the opposing side was shooting at you. Safety was not a concern. Now, priming from the cartridge should not be done. I use a separate pan charger when shooting ball from my King's Musket.
 
Here is a video of my ignition. I primed from a small flask here because it’s loaded with tow not a paper cartridge.


That doesn't appear to be much of a delay. Did it seem so to you?

The angled touch hole is a good practice. Can a thin pipe cleaner fit in the touch hole or one of the Harbor Freight air tip brushes? Right now you want the flash channel free of fouling. Fouling and moisture will be the cause of most delays to fire. Then it is friction between moving parts.

Keep up the good work.
 
Yes, Im aware of the proper procedures. I have been watching videos and have a facsimile copy of steuben’s blue book for the proper technique in movemnets.
That doesn't appear to be much of a delay. Did it seem so to you?

The angled touch hole is a good practice. Can a thin pipe cleaner fit in the touch hole or one of the Harbor Freight air tip brushes? Right now you want the flash channel free of fouling. Fouling and moisture will be the cause of most delays to fire. Then it is friction between moving parts.

Keep up the good work.
it’s just more of a delay vs modern ammunition and capslock. This was my first ever range day shooting a flintlock. Now I know why they are nicknamed flinchlocks.
 

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