Small nick in rifling

[amcmullen]

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So I found this gem the other day while cleaning. Not sure how it happened since I'm pretty careful with my stuff.
The gun is a traditions trapper flint pistol. I was able to get a 1.5" group at 25 yds but am a little paranoid about it. It is very slight and barely catches when a small flat edge is run across it. I'm not sure if I should take it to a smith to crown the barrel a little deeper or just try to forget it.

Thoughts?

 

[Claude Mathis]

I was able to get a 1.5" group at 25 yds but am a little paranoid about it.

What were your groups like before you found the nick?

 

[Larry Akers]

If it catches it COULD affect accuracy. I think I'd take a thin stone and carefully take it down to the surface of the land so it doesnt catch.

 

[amcmullen]

I was able to get a 1.5" group at 25 yds but am a little paranoid about it.

What were your groups like before you found the nick?

That's a hard question to answer, I've only had the pistol for a few months (bought new) and this was only the 4th time I shot it. And from the first to now it actually got a lot better. When I first got it there was a lot of fine metal particles i assumed were from factory rifling. Running a cleaning patch was rough. It has since gotten better and accuracy at 25 is suitable with prb.

The fired patches are are torn at the lands on most of the patches and on all of the patches there is consistently a torn area not huge but still noticeable.

I don't have much experience with ML pistols nor have any experience with issues associated with rifling damage. I will be perfectly fine if I consistently get decent groups. I guess I need to shoot it more to see how it reacts. It's just one of those things that is in the back of my mind.

 

[Katahdin]

Just me,, I'd take it out.

 

[ohio ramrod]

If it is tearing the patches I would try to remove it. You can smooth out nicks and sharp edges with emrey cloth and your thumb. Just put the cloth over the muzzle and rub it with a circular motion using your thumb. :idunno:

 

[Zonie]

IMO, that little nick won't cause a problem so, don't worry about it.

If you are the worrisome type, do as ohio ramrod suggested (although I think you will find that "wet/dry" silicone carbide sandpaper will work better than emory cloth).

Just tear a piece of the paper so it is about 1" X 1" and use your thumb to push it down a bit into the muzzle. Then, rotate your hand in a twisting manner back and forth to move the paper back and forth in a circular direction.

It may take a few squares of paper but soon you will have a very smooth, nicely rounded corner without any imperfections at all.

It will be shiny bright steel colored though and if this bothers you, apply a coat or two of Birchwood Casey Perma Blue, cold bluing agent.

 

[amcmullen]

If you are the worrisome type...

Yep, that's me! Thanks for the tip (both of you). I can do that. What grit would you suggest? I have 400 up to 2000.

 

[nkbj]

If the groups are good are you gonna try to fix it?

 

[Gene L]

You can re-crown the muzzle with a round-head screw (brass) in a hand drill with polishing compound smeared on it. Takes a while, but not a long while and is perfectly round.

 

[mooman76]

What about a piece of Emory board and then go with the finer paper to smooth it down. Over time it should wear down anyway.

 

[amcmullen]

If the groups are good are you gonna try to fix it?

Ha, good point. It's one of those things that just bug me. I'll probably wait and shoot it a little more before I do anything to it. If I can consistently shoot good groups then I'll be fine. However, every time I get a flyer or shoot bad the thought will creep back into my mind....is it that little nick.

 

[necchi]

(,,you will find that "wet/dry" silicone carbide sandpaper will work better than emory cloth).
Just tear a piece of the paper so it is about 1" X 1" and use your thumb to push it down a bit into the muzzle. Then, rotate your hand in a twisting manner back and forth to move the paper back and forth in a circular direction.

I was going to suggest using a marble or even one of the 490 ball he's using wrapped with cloth first then the sandpaper.

What grit would you suggest? I have 400 up to 2000.

The 400,, the deal is you want to get the entire crown the same,, all the lands tapered down a little. If you try to work just the one nick out it'll make a shallow spot that will allow gases to escape that spot sooner than the others,, that can push the ball to one side as it leaves the bore.

 

[Katahdin]

That is how I polish mine works great.

 

[amcmullen]

Used the 400 this morning as you all described. Worked it slowly and evenly. Didn't take long before it didn't catch on the small flat screwdriver edge.
Thanks all

 

[Pete G]

Usually ML barrel steel is relatively soft so these types of things can happen before you realize it. Get a muzzle guard to use when you load and clean and it will help keep this from happening (but not always).

 

[Powerkicker]

I'm wondering what caused that? A brass ball starter and a wooden ramrod loading a lead ball seem unlikely. Someone slip with the patch knife?

 

[amcmullen]

I'm wondering what caused that? A brass ball starter and a wooden ramrod loading a lead ball seem unlikely. Someone slip with the patch knife?

Don't use a patch knife on this gun. I have no idea what caused it. For all I know it came from factory like that. I don't abuse my stuff but I suppose it could have been from a short starter...dunno

 

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

yep looks like that happened possibly from a ball starter.

 

[M. De Land]

I have fixed quite a few nicks,dings and peens in the muzzle of various arms and that is a Looloo as it has deformed the land end.
For top accuracy your thumb will not be firm enough to remove an equal amount of material from all the rest of the land ends in the muzzle to the same depth required to clean up that one.
It will require a round stone, counter sink, coning tool or lathe cut to do a professional job of it then it will need stone or emery dressed.
A brass ball with lapping compound is for dressing the bore end when the deformity has been removed. It can be used for slight nicks but that one needs more than a polish to cut all the land ends to the same depth of the dinged land end.
The metal will have swaged/deformed past the apparent depth seen which means the cut must be made deeper than it appears to make it uniform with all the other land ends.