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Shiloh sharps 54 cal

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*There are a couple of kinds of anti-sieze. Basically silver flake or copper flake.
Choose a high temp version.
In the injection molding biz, for the manifolds we use the silver stuff. It seems to work a bit better in the extreme conditions. But anything is better than nothing. So if all you can get is the spark plug stuff from the auto store, that'll do.
 
Is this good
 

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That works just fine.
Be careful not to gob it on the end of the cleanout screw, or it will tend to kill the primer spark. Same with the nipple, threads only on that.
And a nice, even coating on the backside of the gas check rim.
 
It helps to know the bore size of the gun that you have.
I have several moulds.
Ringtail (or Christmas tree) bullets are preferred by many. I believe there was an example earlier in this thread attached to a paper cartridge. The driving bands are progressively larger from base to front by .010". I.E., .545", .535", .525".
Companies like N.E.I., and Rapine made molds like these in several sizes because there was a good bit of variation in bore diameters.
Not so much with the Shiloh's, but the Itialians had a good bit of variety in the bore of earlier reproductions.
The rings help center it in the bore when it's fired.
There are also Richmond Laboratories bullets available (a LEE mold, from Eras Gone). There are copies of the original Confederate design. They are/were made so that the paper cartridge was to be glued along the base of the bullet.They work very well also.
Or you can also use a round ball.
The gun can be loaded from the breech with bullet or ball with loose powder, or a paper cartridge.
There are several ways to make the paper cartridges. I prefer the flat based version but I have had good luck with all 3 methods.
Helpful videos are all over YouTube. The gentleman from Eras Gone does a good job making his videos (no, I'm not associated with him).
And to answer you question of what bullet I use, it depends on the gun. Every gun has a particular bullet that it shoots better with.
 
KevinC said:
It helps to know the bore size of the gun that you have.
I have several moulds.
Ringtail (or Christmas tree) bullets are preferred by many. I believe there was an example earlier in this thread attached to a paper cartridge. The driving bands are progressively larger from base to front by .010". I.E., .545", .535", .525".
Companies like N.E.I., and Rapine made molds like these in several sizes because there was a good bit of variation in bore diameters.
Not so much with the Shiloh's, but the Itialians had a good bit of variety in the bore of earlier reproductions.
The rings help center it in the bore when it's fired.
There are also Richmond Laboratories bullets available (a LEE mold, from Eras Gone). There are copies of the original Confederate design. They are/were made so that the paper cartridge was to be glued along the base of the bullet.They work very well also.
Or you can also use a round ball.
The gun can be loaded from the breech with bullet or ball with loose powder, or a paper cartridge.
There are several ways to make the paper cartridges. I prefer the flat based version but I have had good luck with all 3 methods.
Helpful videos are all over YouTube. The gentleman from Eras Gone does a good job making his videos (no, I'm not associated with him).
And to answer you question of what bullet I use, it depends on the gun. Every gun has a particular bullet that it shoots better with.
Click to expand...
How do you size a bore.
 
The most common way is to "Slug" the bore. Basically, you just drive a pure lead slug through the bore, then measure the slug. If you're not comfortable with that, you can take a basic measurement with a set of calipers at the muzzle. The groove diameter is the basic major bore size and the land diameter is the basic minor diameter.
 
KevinC said:
The most common way is to "Slug" the bore. Basically, you just drive a pure lead slug through the bore, then measure the slug. If you're not comfortable with that, you can take a basic measurement with a set of calipers at the muzzle. The groove diameter is the basic major bore size and the land diameter is the basic minor diameter.
Click to expand...
Can you cast it where I work we have stuff that does very good impression’s . I cast the bore end and get responsible reading.
 
Sure that will work too.
Really, all you need to do is a check with a set of calipers, or inside micrometer to get the dimensions.
I had one IAB gun that was .555", which was pretty fluffy. And I've had them as small as .535".
My Shiloh is .545".
Knowing the bore size will be very beneficial in choosing a good bullet for your gun.
 
I have just started using linen cartridges in my Shiloh.54..
I apply wall sizing to light linen fabric after nitrating it. This makes the linen like a thick paper sheet that has a nice springy stiffness. I use the Eras Gone bullet and roll and glue linen cylinders so the bottom of the bullet slides in like a piston but doesn't allow the upper part to go through. Cut linen so there is enough overlap to apply glue. Tacky glue works very well on this part.
I cut a 1 x 1 inch square of thin sketch paper ( .0015 thickness ) and push it through the linen cylinder and glue it to one end. Charge the tube with BP and insert the bullet and glue in place with a dab of Duco cement.. I fill the cylinder with enough powder so when seating the bullet it very lightly compresses it. Not alot but a little bit. Consistency here is important. My Shiloh takes about 60 grains of FFG Goex.
Important to adjust the length of the cylinder to fill the chamber right to the face of the breech. You don't want to have to cut the cartridge.. I put a small hole in each cartridge on the paper face to allow cap ignition to pass effectively. Cartridges are very sturdy and shoot accurately.
NOTE.. I haven't done any surface varnish on the cartridge as I think was originally done.
NOTE.. I use a test tube brush, attached to my belt with a strap that I pass into the breech after each shot.. A couple in and outs and it removes any ash that might be present in the chamber. Works great..
NOTE.. Eras Gone design does not allow for a lot of lube.. My only complaint of that original design, but its recessed base works so exceptionally well with the linen.

Best Regards
Bill
 
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